Read all about CCT issue on forum - my Storm (just bought) are 1997? have 18000 miles on the clock, but according to history of bike have not had CCT issue.
Is there any aftermarket parts that fix it or - should I just buy spare CCT and carry it and key with me?
What exactly part of CCT broken normally? Is that spring in CCT, or slider inside engine?
Cam Chain Tensioner - any "preventive" methods?
Cam Chain Tensioner - any "preventive" methods?
4 wheels moving body, 2 wheels moving soul
cct's
My advice would be, don't carry a spare one, just replace em both. Mine just went at low speed (6000 miles), bent valves etc etc.
Its the spring that breaks which allows the slider to slowly retract till you have enough slack for the chain to jump a tooth on the sprocket.
Its the spring that breaks which allows the slider to slowly retract till you have enough slack for the chain to jump a tooth on the sprocket.
I did here that the spring failure had in some cases been caused by rust. The suggestion was that short runs cause condensation, so get it good and hot...........tend to make mine get really hot ie fan comes on before really giving it wellie.
So far 17,400 miles and ok.
So far 17,400 miles and ok.
it may be clever, but its not big.
Not sure
I am not sure that just replacing CCT on my 97 VTR will be a good idea - hence the question.
Why I do not want to take that route: it seems, that replacement of CCT can change it to worse instead of preventing issue.
Look, new Storms seem to be more affected. Then I read about people's CCTs gone in 2000 miles. And then I read somebody done 40 k and still OK.
That sounds like very difficult situation - If I will replace CCTs now I may as well end up with bust in 2000 miles engine because new CCTs are worse than old.
And manual CCTs are out of question, so - well, I'll let it stay as is and will have spare CCT under seat just in case....
Why I do not want to take that route: it seems, that replacement of CCT can change it to worse instead of preventing issue.
Look, new Storms seem to be more affected. Then I read about people's CCTs gone in 2000 miles. And then I read somebody done 40 k and still OK.
That sounds like very difficult situation - If I will replace CCTs now I may as well end up with bust in 2000 miles engine because new CCTs are worse than old.
And manual CCTs are out of question, so - well, I'll let it stay as is and will have spare CCT under seat just in case....
4 wheels moving body, 2 wheels moving soul
You had better Selotape the number of a recovery truck to the bottom of the seat too, coz if you need to get your CCT out from under the seat its too late!! 
I have a 97 Storm too, and there seems to be no aparent reason as to why a CCT fails. Some say the front goes because it doesn't get much oil because of the lie of the cylinder, but when I whipped mine out it was full of oil. The rust one is a new theory, could be possible, but after dissecting mine, there was no sign of rust, the spring just snapped for no good reason.
My front CCT went at speed and I was lucky that it didn't jump a tooth, all I needed to do was replace it. I'm on my second front one now, it's just a matter of knowing the engine, and hearing a noise that shouldn't be there! I replaced the back one as it started ticking without much of a drama. It's not a tick you'll miss or mistake for anything else, so if you don't think you can hear it, then it's not there, don't get paranoid and stress every time you run the engine. I found it only does it when it's hot anyway.
My theory, the spring is shite, and it could happen at any time, anywhere, to anyone.
Some tick loudly before they go, some just go bang. Do you feel lucky punk?
I have a 97 Storm too, and there seems to be no aparent reason as to why a CCT fails. Some say the front goes because it doesn't get much oil because of the lie of the cylinder, but when I whipped mine out it was full of oil. The rust one is a new theory, could be possible, but after dissecting mine, there was no sign of rust, the spring just snapped for no good reason.
My front CCT went at speed and I was lucky that it didn't jump a tooth, all I needed to do was replace it. I'm on my second front one now, it's just a matter of knowing the engine, and hearing a noise that shouldn't be there! I replaced the back one as it started ticking without much of a drama. It's not a tick you'll miss or mistake for anything else, so if you don't think you can hear it, then it's not there, don't get paranoid and stress every time you run the engine. I found it only does it when it's hot anyway.
My theory, the spring is shite, and it could happen at any time, anywhere, to anyone.
Some tick loudly before they go, some just go bang. Do you feel lucky punk?
RQ.
The Stig of 2 wheels as well as 4 !
The Stig of 2 wheels as well as 4 !
Noise...
Yep, good point - I got no any wrong noises from engine so far, and I am quite experienced with bikes/egines nechanics, so I guess I would hear it before it is too late...
Thanks!
P.S. IMHO cause of CCT problem is disbalance beween cam shafts speed/inertia when changing engine modes - chains syncronised on cranckshaft, but not on other ends - camshaft not interconnected between cylinders.
I guess that's why for all 2-cylinder sepate-camshafts chain/belt-driven engines CCTs always are pain in the a..e... and why all switch to gear-driven in case engine meant to be ready for race....
Thanks!
P.S. IMHO cause of CCT problem is disbalance beween cam shafts speed/inertia when changing engine modes - chains syncronised on cranckshaft, but not on other ends - camshaft not interconnected between cylinders.
I guess that's why for all 2-cylinder sepate-camshafts chain/belt-driven engines CCTs always are pain in the a..e... and why all switch to gear-driven in case engine meant to be ready for race....
4 wheels moving body, 2 wheels moving soul
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firestorm996
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Mine went a couple of months ago, at low speed causing no other damage. The spring looks to me like it could be affected by heat cycling, it really is a flimsy little thing, and the way mine broke it looks like it just got 'brittle' and was gonna go sooner or later. It was brand new when my engine was rebuilt and had got about 14k maximum on it.
When mine went I had knocked it into gear accidentally and stalled it about 15 seconds beforehand, too much of a coincidence for my liking. The sudden jolt must've just caused it to go but it would have snapped anyway pretty soon I reckon.
When mine went I had knocked it into gear accidentally and stalled it about 15 seconds beforehand, too much of a coincidence for my liking. The sudden jolt must've just caused it to go but it would have snapped anyway pretty soon I reckon.
Firestorm996
'98 VTR in black - road whore - track bitch
'98 VTR in black - road whore - track bitch
because
manual CCT do not have "springed" element, and do not follow chain movement - chain can not be stable.
Racer's use those CCTs, but not many of them using "simple" manual CCTs, but ones that combine manual adjustement with springed element ...plus you need to take into account that rpm range during race are more "narrow" than in street race. And: all race 4-cams engines using gear driven scheme. So - APMs referrence to racers does not convince me that those particular ccts good for storm.
That's my own "bullet in head"
I guess I am a bit odd with it, but no, no manual cct's
Racer's use those CCTs, but not many of them using "simple" manual CCTs, but ones that combine manual adjustement with springed element ...plus you need to take into account that rpm range during race are more "narrow" than in street race. And: all race 4-cams engines using gear driven scheme. So - APMs referrence to racers does not convince me that those particular ccts good for storm.
That's my own "bullet in head"
I guess I am a bit odd with it, but no, no manual cct's4 wheels moving body, 2 wheels moving soul
cct's
The only thing thats "sprung" about a standard cct is the rubber insert behind the steel tip plate. The spring inside the cct is only to take up the slack as the chain wears. It provides no cushioning effect whatsoever.
I have designed a mod that turns a standard cct into a manual one for little or no cost. This retains the rubber insert. Can send u a pic and description if u e mail me.
ejb@zol.co.zw
I have designed a mod that turns a standard cct into a manual one for little or no cost. This retains the rubber insert. Can send u a pic and description if u e mail me.
ejb@zol.co.zw
cct's
Thx for the interesting theories of why these dam things break.
Point really is, they do, and what we need is ideas on how to eliminate the problem. Del has done much interesting work on the problem and is testing his mod now. His mod retains the "self adjusting" characteristic of the cct. My proposed mod does not.
Mine is effectively a maually adjusted tensioner and will need to be re adjusted periodically. It does however retain the rubber insert of the OE tensioner so differs from the APE offering in that respect. If Dels works it will THE solution.
Point really is, they do, and what we need is ideas on how to eliminate the problem. Del has done much interesting work on the problem and is testing his mod now. His mod retains the "self adjusting" characteristic of the cct. My proposed mod does not.
Mine is effectively a maually adjusted tensioner and will need to be re adjusted periodically. It does however retain the rubber insert of the OE tensioner so differs from the APE offering in that respect. If Dels works it will THE solution.