Help me fix bumble bee

[TUG]

Hey guys not been on here in a good while dude to problems blah blah blah.

Now that i'm medicated I've got more go in me and got around to fixing my VTR.

It cut out on me one night and has never been the same since but I thought sod it, bought 2 new plugs and a battery,
well what do you know?! Works a treat now bar one problem...

I fitted MCCTs to it and it makes a lot of clicking and it doesn't run right when revved up.
Its perfect on idle, its just sudden acceleration, I've not been on thttp://www.vtr1000.org/he road with it since it cut out so this is on the stand.

Can MCCTs change the timing slightly? My camchains are a bit slack maybe its time to buy new ones?

Can anyone help me out? Like i said works fine on side stand on idle but as soon as revved it hesitates.

Thanks guys.

[Stratman]

Sounds like a classic case of timing 180 deg out. Loads of threads/posts on that on here and Sirch has done a step by step guide to checking/installing them

[TUG]

I cant really remember the process in which i did the change but i think i did what he suggested in his thread and locked the engine in place with a strap and ractchet.

If it was 180 degrees out it would blow through my carbs which i dont think it is doing.

It idles on tick over perfectly its just when you accelerate.

[TUG]

I think your right, I'll take it apart tomorrow and let you know how i get on.

Thank you.

[tony.mon]

I cant really remember the process in which i did the change but i think i did what he suggested in his thread and locked the engine in place with a strap and ractchet.

If it was 180 degrees out it would blow through my carbs which i dont think it is doing.

It idles on tick over perfectly its just when you accelerate.

Don't know why it would blow through the carbs any more than usual, timing 180 out means that it ticks over and runs beautifully up to about 5000rpm, and runs out of puff after that.
It'll rev up ok to the red line in neutral, though, just not in gear.

[TUG]

Ok then well i guess my timing it out then. Sounds like what is happening, haven't tried it in grear because i dont want to risk dropping it.

Its no big deal, just takes a fair amount of time but easy to do. Like i said i'll jump on it tomorrow or sunday, i cant ride it on the road as it has nothing in regards to legal requirements.

[sirch345]

TUG, follow these instructions if you've not already:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

Chris.

[TUG]

I think my timing is out, using the guide you posted my front cylinder lobes dont point to each other when i turn the engine 450 degrees.
They should be pointing to each other right?

[sirch345]

I think my timing is out, using the guide you posted my front cylinder lobes dont point to each other when i turn the engine 450 degrees.
They should be pointing to each other right?

Hi TUG, No the front cam lobes should be facing away from each other once you've turned the engine over 450 degrees.

Before you turned the engine over 450 degrees ANTI-CLOCKWISE are you positive all the timing marks were in the correct positions for the rear cylinder

Just to recap the settings for the rear cylinder.
Apart from the cam lobes facing towards each other (if you look at a clock face they should be around the ten to two position for the want of a better description), the RI and RE marks on the cam sprockets need to be level with the top of the cylinder head and facing away from each other as well. Plus the RT mark must be lined up with alternator cover mark.

Chris.

[TUG]

i've checked and checked again, my timing is set up correctly.

what else could be causing my problem?

[TUG]

Crap i forgot to mention my cam chains are a bit worn, the markings dont line up 100% right but it ran fine before my battery died on me.

[tony.mon]

Forget cam chains, they can't cause a problem.

The slight amount of wear merely puts the cam timing out by a degree or three, enough to measure on a dyno maybe but not noticeable when riding.

To summarise cam timing:
Set rear cams to point up and towards each other, with RI and RE marks lined up with top of head, flywheel timing mark set to RT.

Then turn crankshaft anticlockwise from LH side exactly one and a quarter turns to the FT mark. Ignore the FT mark the first time you see it, one and a quarter turns is what's needed.
Now look at the front cams, they should be pointing up and away from each other, marks FI and FE lined up level with the head.

Assuming that's ok, it's merely a process of elimination from here on in.

Suggest you get another owner nearby to have a look, but before that check vac lines, and make sure that as well as the rear one, the front one isn't perished if fitted.

Diaphragms in carbs?

Blocked jets?

Maybe electrical breakdown on coils?

You need to eliminate and identify, so first of all try to see if one cylinder is affected more than the other.
That'll mean a short road ride, 200 yards will do, just to see if one ex pipe gets hotter than the other.
That'll help to identify whether it is a problem affecting just one cylinder, and will mean that you can swap components over to try to get the fault to move to the other cylinder (coils etc) or at least you know which is the good one and which isn't.

It'll be something obvious and stupid in the end, it always is.....

[benny hedges]

chances are you forgot to refit the tps.....
have a peep under the tank on the right and see if it's on.
if you forget to put it back on it will do like you said as no timing advance.

[TUG]

Benny the TPS was plugged in because i had to unplug it to remove my carbs.

Yes i checked the timing for like 2 hours to make sure it was right and it is.

I'll strip the carbs and have a look if there is a blocked jet in either, I have a dynojet kit too but I don't know what jets to put in etc.

Urm i'll do as stated, strip the carbs, i'll test the coil resistances too just to be safe.

Anything else i should check?

Thanks guys.

[TUG]

Urm, looks like the bike is terminal.

Theres no rattle when cold, it wont rev over 5 grand without being very hesitant but will then redline then bog and cut out.
When i try to restart it the engine locks up like the bike's battery has no charge, when turned over a few times it will then start again.
The rattle sounds like a cam chain rattle and is extremely loud, my bike has high level scorpions on and the rattle can be heard over them.

I don't know what to do, i'm kind of stuck. Everyone is telling me to sell it as spares/repair and buy a CG125 to get around on as i'm looking for a job etc.

I'm really gutted but at the same time i've accepted that it is what it is and i need to come up with a plan from here on in.