So I finally have some manuals...big thanks to Bazza by the way.
Going to have a go tomorrow, so I have just read the guide in the workshop. It actually looks a lot easier than I had imagined, but one last check - is there anything else I will need, other than some gasket paste and some locktite?
Also - I dont have a locking key thing, can I just remove the old CCTs, insert the manuals and extend/wind them by hand until they are tight?
And this will sound very stupid, but as for the locktite, do you just put a little bit of it around the thread of the new manual CCT before winding it in?
Manual CCTs
Re: Manual CCTs
That's about it, you merely set the engine to the correct place, start with the rear one, take off the rear cam box and have a look to see if the cams are in the correct place, then put the cam cover back on and undo the rear one. Fit the new rear one, using a good smear of gasket goo or locking fluid on the thread, and nip up the locknut good and hard.
Now remove airbox and you can see the front one.
Rotate the engine one and a quarter turns anticlockwise, and see FT in the window.
Then remove the front cct and replace with a manual one.
Nip up the locknut, then start the engine. You can undo the main front cct bolt until you just hear a slight rattle, then re tighten until the noise just goes away. Then stop the engine and tighten it up properly.
Now reinstall the airbox, tank and seat, and adjust the rear one the same way.
This method uses just the fuel in the pipes and bottom of the carb to set the front one, so you have only about minute to get it done before it runs out of fuel and stops, but that's plenty long enough.
And don't go near a Haynes manual, use the info in workshop sticky.
Now remove airbox and you can see the front one.
Rotate the engine one and a quarter turns anticlockwise, and see FT in the window.
Then remove the front cct and replace with a manual one.
Nip up the locknut, then start the engine. You can undo the main front cct bolt until you just hear a slight rattle, then re tighten until the noise just goes away. Then stop the engine and tighten it up properly.
Now reinstall the airbox, tank and seat, and adjust the rear one the same way.
This method uses just the fuel in the pipes and bottom of the carb to set the front one, so you have only about minute to get it done before it runs out of fuel and stops, but that's plenty long enough.
And don't go near a Haynes manual, use the info in workshop sticky.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
- Miztaziggy
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- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Manual CCTs
Thanks Tony.
So no need for unwinding old cct and locking key?
Just unbolt it and pull out?
So no need for unwinding old cct and locking key?
Just unbolt it and pull out?

- benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Manual CCTs
correct mate assuming you have double checked the cam position.Miztaziggy wrote:Thanks Tony.
So no need for unwinding old cct and locking key?
Just unbolt it and pull out?
you ok for gasket stuff???
give us a holler if you get stuck bud
& btw.... get the engine good and hot with the tank on the seat before you put it back together.
stop and start it hot to check for the errrr noise when the ccts are too tight.
You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Manual CCTs
Yea think so mate, got some red gasket paste, and the CCTs have a green paper gasket with them.
Gonna buy some locktite in the morning and also an exhaust gasket I need from bikebitz in Rochdale. Might get the head bearings too.
Hopefully all will go ok :-)
Gonna buy some locktite in the morning and also an exhaust gasket I need from bikebitz in Rochdale. Might get the head bearings too.
Hopefully all will go ok :-)

- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Manual CCTs
Right so problems so far :-(
First was a screw on one of the trumpet things in air box wouldn't budge, ended up having to drill it out. Now not sure how to put something back.
Second, when I reconnect airbox, how am I supposed to connect the two breather pipes back?

Lastly, I can't get to front spark plug without removing this black plastic thing but looks more trouble than it's worth, is it a must to remove it?
First was a screw on one of the trumpet things in air box wouldn't budge, ended up having to drill it out. Now not sure how to put something back.
Second, when I reconnect airbox, how am I supposed to connect the two breather pipes back?

Lastly, I can't get to front spark plug without removing this black plastic thing but looks more trouble than it's worth, is it a must to remove it?

- benny hedges
- Posts: 6110
- Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:09 pm
- Location: Warrington
Re: Manual CCTs
the big one on the front left is a dog to get on but easy if you know how lol.
put some grease on the pipe, with the clip in place.
hold the airbox at 45 degrees, pull the pipe upwards and shove it on. that easy.
the one next to it (smaller one) take the riangular cap off the breather filter and look down the hole.
its easy to line it up and you can see when its on proper.
the first time you do this you will struggle, but theres a nack to it and it's dead easy.
good luck!
dont forget the throttle position sensor if you have taken it off!!!
put some grease on the pipe, with the clip in place.
hold the airbox at 45 degrees, pull the pipe upwards and shove it on. that easy.
the one next to it (smaller one) take the riangular cap off the breather filter and look down the hole.
its easy to line it up and you can see when its on proper.
the first time you do this you will struggle, but theres a nack to it and it's dead easy.
good luck!
dont forget the throttle position sensor if you have taken it off!!!

You do not have to say anything. But it may harm your defence if you do not mention when posting something which you later rely on in quote. Anything you do say may be ripped to sh*t.
- Miztaziggy
- Posts: 2451
- Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2011 9:15 pm
- Location: Tadcaster
Manual CCTs
Thanks benny
Will try that.
As for the spark plugs, I'm guessing that is just to make it easier to turn engine over?
What to do about that screw on trumpet thing?
Will try that.
As for the spark plugs, I'm guessing that is just to make it easier to turn engine over?
What to do about that screw on trumpet thing?

Re: Manual CCTs
Same happened on mine - replaced it with an allen headed replacement - use some a small amount of loctite to stop it ever coming looseMiztaziggy wrote:Thanks benny
Will try that.
As for the spark plugs, I'm guessing that is just to make it easier to turn engine over?
Yup
What to do about that screw on trumpet thing?
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Re: Manual CCTs
Sadly, hindsight-type advice....
If you use a small hacksaw to cut a straight cut into the head, you can not only get it out, but use it again until you order up a replacement....
Removing the white plastic catch tank inside the airbox gives you enough room.
Don't forget to put a wodge of paper towel into the carb holes, or filings get into the engine, and hoover it out once the cutting is done.
Those screws don't need to be tight, they're captive in the plastic and AFAIK don't ever come loose by themselves.
If you use a small hacksaw to cut a straight cut into the head, you can not only get it out, but use it again until you order up a replacement....
Removing the white plastic catch tank inside the airbox gives you enough room.
Don't forget to put a wodge of paper towel into the carb holes, or filings get into the engine, and hoover it out once the cutting is done.
Those screws don't need to be tight, they're captive in the plastic and AFAIK don't ever come loose by themselves.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.