engine bolt

[desperate dan]

trying to remove the front engine bolt,the front one thats just behind the front cylinder,looking at the rear bolt it has like an allan bolt head,is the front the same or is it threaded into the cases,used plenty of wd40 and some pucussivr maintainence but the bugger wont move,any advice helpful

[benny hedges]

good luck - it's probably rusted in.
you might end up having to cut it.

keep going at it with the wd and hope for the best.

[desperate dan]

done half a can of wd,the nut end is loose,siezed the l/h side with the castleated nut,killed the nut with a bfh

[tony.mon]

Not unusual, hope you don't need the bike for Monday morning.

If you look inside the frame, you will be able to see the inside, flared end of the frame adjuster. Try filing flats on this to get purchase with a pair of stilsons, probably with a length of scaffold pole on.

If that fails, cut the bolt through the adjuster with an angle grinder, and remove the engine.
Then thread a small hacksaw blade through the adjuster and make two cuts through the length of the adjuster (try not to go into the frame) and knock a section out of the adjuster.
It will then close up enough to remove it.

These are a real pain, I've lost so many days doing this job, and that's why I won't any longer take on engine swaps for other people.....

Worst one I did was on my own bike, took four days.

Wish I had better news, but heat, hitting it hard with big hammers etc don't seem to get yo9u anywhere once the adjuster is properly seized in.

But if anyone has any better suggestions......

Good luck.

[darkember]

Try using Plugas it has better penetrative qualities than WD40. Otherwise, as mentioned above it will need to be cut out. Another thing you could try would be to weld a suitable bolt head onto the left side end then get hold of a serious compressor & inpact gun, keep soaking it with plusgas & using the gun in both directions, it can take several days but I have heard it works. Do remember if you do any welding to remove the negative terminal from the battery.

[gilson]

It's a mission. Only luck and hours will help.

It doesn't have to be said, lots of coppaslip on the new one.

[desperate dan]

anybody know the part number for a new one?

[tony.mon]

You need three parts, bolt, frame adjuster and castle nut.
Have a look at the sticky thread in the workshop section and look the part numbers up.
But you don't need them; call your local honda dealer or david silvers and tell them what you want.

Get the old ones out first; you never know how many other parts you'll need until it's stripped.