Useful Strip down photos
Useful Strip down photos
Decided to strip the bike to check the valve clearances on the rear cylinder, main reason was to cure a slight oil leak on the APE CCT. Here are some photos of the job. Note this is a 2002 F2 model with the 19l tank. You will see there is no tap so I had to be a little adaptive.
View before work began
Seat removed
Disconnecting fuel sender unit
Loosening pivot bolt at the rear of the tank
Removing front bolts
Support the tank using a piece of ply, note I use the tank bolts as added slippage protection
View under the tank note 2002 model and no shutoff valve.
Adapted tool to clamp off the fuel line. Note, have as little fuel as possible in the tank. I had 1 bar on the fuel gauge
Fuel line clamped off. Note the square rubber tank protector (one on each side) in the foreground of the above photo can fall off, don't loose them.
Next follow the main fuel delivery line from the left of the clamping device round to the fuel vacum assembly. Unscrew the fuel line clamp & pull off the fuel hose, there will be a little fuel spillage so have a rag at the ready. Then pull off the vacum & overflow pipes from the bottom of the tank. Those are the 2 pipes still attached to the tank avove the clamping device in the above photo. Note, I have alread removed the nut at the end of the pivot bolt ready for tank removal. Support the tank, remove the pivot bolt , and lift away. Place the tank somewhere safe & I plugged the fuel delivery pipe using a 12mm bolt wrapped with some PTFE tape, this allowed me to remove the clamping device so as not to damage the pipe any further.
Photo of the tank removed showing the vacum assembly including both main carb fuel feed pipes and the small vacum control pipe.
Airbox lid removed showing air filter. Note you can remove this lid & change the air filter without removing the fuel tank by having it pivoted virtically as shown earlier, please have an assistant available to support the tank as you remove the airbox lid just in case.
Air filter removed showing trumpets. Note: long trumpet at the rear & small at the front they are arrowed to the airbox housing as to correct orientation.
Trumpets removed & carb mouths secured against foreign bodies falling in.
Airbox housing is secured with 8 bolts which are thread locked in. These have now been removed. Now comes the plumping bit. The following are photos of various pipes that need to be removed that can be done in any order. Accessability & small hands are an advantage here.
Finally
Airbox off. Next up is to remove the fuel vacum assembly
No need to remove all the fuel lines I supported it with a shoe lace attached to the wing mirror
The next sequence of photos is an aid to ensure you remove parts in a particular order so as to repeat in the re-assembly process
Remove rubber protector
Disconnect & remove rear cylinder pair valve pipe.
Now you have reached the rear cylinder rocker cover. Before removing first remove the altenator center plug. (AS STATED IN OTHER THREADS THIS IS MADE FROM A VERY SOFT ALLU & CAN BE A SOD ) I tapped mine back & forth & it eventually gave way. You may want a spare ready just in case you need to b8stard it off. When replacing it use some grease on the threads this will help removal next time round. Then remove the timing access plug to the left of the center plug. NOW REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS FOR BOTH CYLINDERS & COVER EXPOSED HOLES.
Next remove the 4 rockercover retaining bolts
Note: the orientation of the washers the way UP is clearly stated on them. I also smear them with engine oil when replaced.
Next you need to find TDC for the REAR cylinder please refer to the CCT thread for this proceedure. Below are photos of what TDC looks like for the REAR cylinder looking at the cam lobes/sprockets & timing window. Note (ALWAYS TURN THE MOTOR COUNTER CLOCKWISE USING A 17MM SOCKET ON THE BOLT IN THE CENTER OF THE ALTENATOR HOUSING).
Reassembly is the reverse of what you have seen. This is as far as I went. My valve clearences are a shade on the tight side but have been reliably informed that they can wait for the the next workshop. I also stopped the leak on my APE CCT.
I hope this will help some of you out there I do like photos as they speak a thousand words. Happy spanners
View before work began
Seat removed
Disconnecting fuel sender unit
Loosening pivot bolt at the rear of the tank
Removing front bolts
Support the tank using a piece of ply, note I use the tank bolts as added slippage protection
View under the tank note 2002 model and no shutoff valve.
Adapted tool to clamp off the fuel line. Note, have as little fuel as possible in the tank. I had 1 bar on the fuel gauge
Fuel line clamped off. Note the square rubber tank protector (one on each side) in the foreground of the above photo can fall off, don't loose them.
Next follow the main fuel delivery line from the left of the clamping device round to the fuel vacum assembly. Unscrew the fuel line clamp & pull off the fuel hose, there will be a little fuel spillage so have a rag at the ready. Then pull off the vacum & overflow pipes from the bottom of the tank. Those are the 2 pipes still attached to the tank avove the clamping device in the above photo. Note, I have alread removed the nut at the end of the pivot bolt ready for tank removal. Support the tank, remove the pivot bolt , and lift away. Place the tank somewhere safe & I plugged the fuel delivery pipe using a 12mm bolt wrapped with some PTFE tape, this allowed me to remove the clamping device so as not to damage the pipe any further.
Photo of the tank removed showing the vacum assembly including both main carb fuel feed pipes and the small vacum control pipe.
Airbox lid removed showing air filter. Note you can remove this lid & change the air filter without removing the fuel tank by having it pivoted virtically as shown earlier, please have an assistant available to support the tank as you remove the airbox lid just in case.
Air filter removed showing trumpets. Note: long trumpet at the rear & small at the front they are arrowed to the airbox housing as to correct orientation.
Trumpets removed & carb mouths secured against foreign bodies falling in.
Airbox housing is secured with 8 bolts which are thread locked in. These have now been removed. Now comes the plumping bit. The following are photos of various pipes that need to be removed that can be done in any order. Accessability & small hands are an advantage here.
Finally
Airbox off. Next up is to remove the fuel vacum assembly
No need to remove all the fuel lines I supported it with a shoe lace attached to the wing mirror
The next sequence of photos is an aid to ensure you remove parts in a particular order so as to repeat in the re-assembly process
Remove rubber protector
Disconnect & remove rear cylinder pair valve pipe.
Now you have reached the rear cylinder rocker cover. Before removing first remove the altenator center plug. (AS STATED IN OTHER THREADS THIS IS MADE FROM A VERY SOFT ALLU & CAN BE A SOD ) I tapped mine back & forth & it eventually gave way. You may want a spare ready just in case you need to b8stard it off. When replacing it use some grease on the threads this will help removal next time round. Then remove the timing access plug to the left of the center plug. NOW REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS FOR BOTH CYLINDERS & COVER EXPOSED HOLES.
Next remove the 4 rockercover retaining bolts
Note: the orientation of the washers the way UP is clearly stated on them. I also smear them with engine oil when replaced.
Next you need to find TDC for the REAR cylinder please refer to the CCT thread for this proceedure. Below are photos of what TDC looks like for the REAR cylinder looking at the cam lobes/sprockets & timing window. Note (ALWAYS TURN THE MOTOR COUNTER CLOCKWISE USING A 17MM SOCKET ON THE BOLT IN THE CENTER OF THE ALTENATOR HOUSING).
Reassembly is the reverse of what you have seen. This is as far as I went. My valve clearences are a shade on the tight side but have been reliably informed that they can wait for the the next workshop. I also stopped the leak on my APE CCT.
I hope this will help some of you out there I do like photos as they speak a thousand words. Happy spanners
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Good write up ! Pictures are always easier to follow. Thanks for spending the time to do it.
- turbo_billy
- Posts: 1192
- Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:01 pm
- Location: Churchdown, Glos
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Nice photos especially for a newbie like me.
Have a look at this ebay item, quick release race line connector. I fitted one to the GS as I had the same problem of not being able to shut off the fuel. Works a treat and available in different bore sizes.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270605206213? ... 3D1&_rdc=1
Regards
Tim
Have a look at this ebay item, quick release race line connector. I fitted one to the GS as I had the same problem of not being able to shut off the fuel. Works a treat and available in different bore sizes.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270605206213? ... 3D1&_rdc=1
Regards
Tim
Re: Useful Strip down photos
For the VTR it needs to be at least 12mm our fuel lines are enormous hence our great fuel economyturbo_billy wrote:Nice photos especially for a newbie like me.
Have a look at this ebay item, quick release race line connector. I fitted one to the GS as I had the same problem of not being able to shut off the fuel. Works a treat and available in different bore sizes.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270605206213? ... 3D1&_rdc=1
Regards
Tim
- turbo_billy
- Posts: 1192
- Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2011 3:01 pm
- Location: Churchdown, Glos
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Told you I was a newbie to this bike......haven`t got under the tank yet
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Impressed
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Good write up and pics
@ billy: the firestorm fuel hose is 10mm ID, the one you linked to is 8mm. I use 2 suitable sized hose couplers to make it easier to pull the fuel hoses and QR couplers on the drain & vacuum hoses. http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... se#p150084
@ billy: the firestorm fuel hose is 10mm ID, the one you linked to is 8mm. I use 2 suitable sized hose couplers to make it easier to pull the fuel hoses and QR couplers on the drain & vacuum hoses. http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... se#p150084
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Aww mate, I got all excited at the title of the thread. Imagine my disappointment when up popped a VTR.
Nice, useful photo's, though. Jolly good show.
Nice, useful photo's, though. Jolly good show.
- BigVeeGrin
- Posts: 2516
- Joined: Wed Feb 17, 2010 1:41 pm
- Location: Glasgow
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Mr Darkember - fantastic for a novice spanner like me with loads of enthusiasm for getting stuck in and a deep yearning to love my storm to my deathbed I will plagiarise and laminate and pin to my soon to be state-of-the-art garage (unless the Mrs gets wind of my plans and it remains as an effin' junk room for all her useless stuff!)
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Admin should stick this somewhere easy to find in the knowledge base.
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Do you know which market your bike was originally sold for? I have an F3 and that doesn't have the PAIR system fitted. I thought it was only on the US bikes!
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Are you sure you don't have one?? I cannot be sure or somebody has already removed yours. Check the rocker cover for signs of the blancking plate. 6th photo up from the bottom will show you where the blanking plate will be. There will also be signs of blanking plugs into your airbox. My machine is defo not an import & the manuals state it does have the system.
Re: Useful Strip down photos
No mate, no pair on mine. The heads haven't got blanking caps fitted they just have the outline of the system indented on them.
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Penske shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, lashings of Ti & CF
Re: Useful Strip down photos
I thought the pair was for the stricter emissions regulations they have in the states, especially Calafornia which is a slightly different PAIR system. We luckily at this moment in time are not so strict. Strange, I know the later models had some stuff done to emissions here, but I did not realise this included PAIR. That extra hole you have in the bottom of your airbox maybe a clue Kev, it's simple enough to just replace cam covers.
@darkember Nice write up and exceptionally good pics. Nice and clear. Your just missing the one of the valve clearance check
(:-})
@darkember Nice write up and exceptionally good pics. Nice and clear. Your just missing the one of the valve clearance check
(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: Useful Strip down photos
Moved from "Workshop" area.
Nice job Darkember
Chris.
Nice job Darkember
Chris.