BUGGER!! Broken Bolt

[seb421]

Just fitted APE CCT's to engine before putting it in

took the guide off to check chain sag when finger tightening, when putting it back bolt head came off, its been bloody years since ive done this.

Put the front guide on first and that went back no problem, bolt grabbed and torqued up as they normally do, then i put the rear back on and well you can see...

doesn't move about very easy will it be okay?, or should i take the cam lobe cover off the old engine?

bit pissed off with it, was only hand tightening it with a 10 mm spanner thinking gee when is this going to torque up, then it slipped round, DAM IT!

[benny hedges]

Yeh swap it of you have a spare part. Just in case the broken bit vibrates out and falls down the tunnel.

What you doing with the old engine btw... I need some bits for mine...

[seb421]

Hi thanks for the reply mate,

Was hoping to tear it apart and fix it at leisure, to have an ongoing spare should I have any issues with this one in the near future, what part's do you need?

how do I remove this part with out wombles up the timing? if I remove this part with the shaft try to raise out?

do I set it to the RE - RI Timing marks Lobes facing inwards then just undo it?

[thumperslaw]

Yeh swap it of you have a spare part. Just in case the broken bit vibrates out and falls down the tunnel.

What you doing with the old engine btw... I need some bits for mine...

What do you need

[seb421]

Can anybody help with that info?

really need make room in the garage asap, dads going nuts as per usual.

[benny hedges]

Yeh swap it of you have a spare part. Just in case the broken bit vibrates out and falls down the tunnel.

What you doing with the old engine btw... I need some bits for mine...

What do you need

well i have a set of +0.5mm 11.5:1 pistons so am not bothered about the wear in the bores but when the chain broke on mine it took out the mounting lugs for the clutch slave & sprocket cover...
i dont fancy doing all the work on an engine thats been botched, plus the selector drum is on its way after years of clutchless changes and abuse...
i do have another set of casings but on close inspection, the boss that holds the advance gear is cracked with a piece missing...
i could weld it & remachine it, but again, it seems a lot of fkin about & i'd rather not use an engine that's been repaired as a base for my rebuild.

so yeh... whatever i can lay my hands on. cheap! basically a complete engine but i dont need the heads or starter, starter gear, flywheel etc.

the completed mill will have the oversize hc pistons, with new rings, i'll go a bit further with the head porting, fit the extreme cams ive already got and replace all the internal bearings & seals, finished off with a nice new shiny barnet clutch kit
should be worth the effort.

bodywork - most of the frame is already stripped bare... not sure yet whether to powder coat it all in black or polish it up.
im keeping the white but will most probably be fitting the fibreglas race fairing & seat with my pyramid belly.
might not bother with lights. see what happens.
if i do i'll be fitting a projector set off a gilera ped (already got) - the lamp its got on atm is fkt tbh & not worth a fiddler anyway, but i rarely ride it in the dark so dont really need it.

got a new gold xring chain & sprocket set with 15/44 cogs, new cush rubbers, new set of racetecs ready to go on but will be stripping the wheels and coating them black as i cba with the white.

just short of a rear hugger as mine is smashed to buggery off the chain....& undertray as the std one is wrecked but i'll most probably glass one meself to suit the single seat.

no rush with it as ive got the sp to ride, but i'd like it all done by easter obviously

[tony.mon]

Let's deal with this one thing at a time.
Seb, your snapped bolt isn't going to cause a problem, you can leave it as it is, because that guide doesn't do any bloody thing anyway.
If Honda had made it longer, with a top that went further over and closer to the sprockets it would stop the cam chain riding up over the teeth when the cct fails, as it is it's just extra weight.

You could drill out and use an Easy-Out, if you're fussed, or just drill it out and tap an oversize bolt, a slightly larger English size will probably be best, as it will be smaller than the next size up metric.

However, the bad news- the cam caps are line-bored with the head, so you shouldn't change them, you may get cam seizure, but at least are likely to get excessive journal wear.

If you really have to, I'd suggest getting as many as you can lay your hands on, trying them all and seeing which one lines up best.

So you either leave it alone or get a replacement head.

Having said that, enough people fit replacement heads without getting the cam caps, so it would probably be ok.
You just have to take a chance some days.....

I have spares if you need one.

Martin, why you no ask? , I have two engines here with front bore wear, just right for an overbore.
When you next down this way?

[benny hedges]

will let you know when im passing tony, or might have a drive down one day for a brew
regards sebs snapped bolt i was just concerned it could vibrate loose and cause damage....
lots of packing and a big magnet required if you intend to drill it out tho.... dont want any swarf in the engine, though most of it will just drop to the bottom of the sump...

[tony.mon]

will let you know when im passing tony, or might have a drive down one day for a brew
regards sebs snapped bolt i was just concerned it could vibrate loose and cause damage....
lots of packing and a big magnet required if you intend to drill it out tho.... dont want any swarf in the engine, though most of it will just drop to the bottom of the sump...

No, because that arm's part of the cam cap.
Just unbolt it, clamp it carefully in a vice with a softish piece of packing (softwood?) on the machined face and drill away.

[benny hedges]

will let you know when im passing tony, or might have a drive down one day for a brew
regards sebs snapped bolt i was just concerned it could vibrate loose and cause damage....
lots of packing and a big magnet required if you intend to drill it out tho.... dont want any swarf in the engine, though most of it will just drop to the bottom of the sump...

No, because that arm's part of the cam cap.
Just unbolt it, clamp it carefully in a vice with a softish piece of packing (softwood?) on the machined face and drill away.

not as daft as you look are you lol!

see, i'd have drilled it in situ then wondered why the bottom end was knocking its bollox off!

[seb421]

Thanks loads for replys and help guys, mate at work is bringing. in an easy out, just incase.

Would it be okay to just apply some thred lock / loctite to the left over bit of thred I can see? Would this be sufficent to stop the bolt vibrateing loose?

Sorry for short reply on phone in work at the moment

[benny hedges]

be best to run a tap down it m8 just to clean up the thread... see what its like when its out.. it might be fine.
you#ll be best warming it up a bit before drilling it tbh as if its stuck in with threadlock it usually softens up a bit when its warm... assuming the po hasnt used a permanent stud locking compound, which will be a bugger to shift.

[seb421]

Just an update as to what's happened,

Well set the position's to remove the Lobe cover, took it off and mounted it in a vice with wood either side, opened my new extractor set / easy outs

Proceeded to drill away,..... would it drill into the bolt, would it hell!!

Hour and a half i tried in vain with different bits and every thing, nothing!

Decided bugger it, took it out and hacksawed the arm off it and then smoothed it off and refit it.

Hope it will be fine as is, shouldn't see it causing any issue.