I have just checked my valve clearances (prior to doing manual CCT mod) and find that all are good.....except for the two front inlet valves that are right on bottom limit or slightly below - specified minimum is 5 thou, I get 5 thou on the RHS valve but only 4.5 thou on the left side. The bottom limit is 5 thou. My bike, new to me is 10 years old but has only done 10K and I don't expect to do more than 4K per year.
Question is, should I change the shims to put it well into spec (bit nervous about removing cams etc) or should I be "safe" with the clearances I have measured?
Thanks for any advice
Valve Clearances
Re: Valve Clearances
My front clearences were tight like yours and felt whilst the bike was in pieces sort them out.
it a bit of a dog cause you need to lower the oil cooler out of the way otherwise you cant get the front rocker cover off.
I took my time made sure all the timing marks were correctly lined up and off you go, the main difficulty was trying to see the marks on the cam sprockets when putting it all back together to check if they lined up after. note: make sure you have a strong magnet to lift the cups and to keep the shim attached to the bottom, there are cut outs to lift the cup out with pliers etc but you cant guarantee the shim will stay put till moved far away from the bike, dont want the sound of shin falling into engine. Be paitient with the front rocker cover, for a couple of what felt like hours it was a square peg in a round hole, mr honda fitted a brace that the oil cooler fixes to, and that is right in the way.
I will check my shims again when I have the front end of the bike for it 5 yearly deep service, a lot bloody easier without the the forks etc out the way.
it a bit of a dog cause you need to lower the oil cooler out of the way otherwise you cant get the front rocker cover off.
I took my time made sure all the timing marks were correctly lined up and off you go, the main difficulty was trying to see the marks on the cam sprockets when putting it all back together to check if they lined up after. note: make sure you have a strong magnet to lift the cups and to keep the shim attached to the bottom, there are cut outs to lift the cup out with pliers etc but you cant guarantee the shim will stay put till moved far away from the bike, dont want the sound of shin falling into engine. Be paitient with the front rocker cover, for a couple of what felt like hours it was a square peg in a round hole, mr honda fitted a brace that the oil cooler fixes to, and that is right in the way.
I will check my shims again when I have the front end of the bike for it 5 yearly deep service, a lot bloody easier without the the forks etc out the way.
Re: Valve Clearances
As Bazza has said, most of the work is getting the front cam cover off, and once you have done that it is only a bit more work to do the clearances and finish the job.
So as you have got this far, I would reccomend that you change the shims on the inlet and get it behind you.
key is to take your time, and make sure you have rags stuffed in the cam chain tunnel so nothing drops in, and also make sure the front of the frame [well anything above the open cam cover] is cleaned as well as you can, so you dont dislodge any crap into the engine.
As bazza points out a good magnet on a stick is needed to pull the cam follower [bucket] up with the shim, and a mirror is going to help you see the timing marks. Other than that it is just following the process,
set engine to firing TDC [I think this is cams up and pointing out, but I am not at home so cant check my notes, but it is the opposite to the rear cyl which will be cams up but pointing in to each other]. Then remove the CCT to get the chain slack, then remove the guide above the cam chain, then remove the inlet cam journal bolts and the cam can then be removed. Remove the bucket and shim, measure shim, work out new shim size, order new shim and rebuild.
So as you have got this far, I would reccomend that you change the shims on the inlet and get it behind you.
key is to take your time, and make sure you have rags stuffed in the cam chain tunnel so nothing drops in, and also make sure the front of the frame [well anything above the open cam cover] is cleaned as well as you can, so you dont dislodge any crap into the engine.
As bazza points out a good magnet on a stick is needed to pull the cam follower [bucket] up with the shim, and a mirror is going to help you see the timing marks. Other than that it is just following the process,
set engine to firing TDC [I think this is cams up and pointing out, but I am not at home so cant check my notes, but it is the opposite to the rear cyl which will be cams up but pointing in to each other]. Then remove the CCT to get the chain slack, then remove the guide above the cam chain, then remove the inlet cam journal bolts and the cam can then be removed. Remove the bucket and shim, measure shim, work out new shim size, order new shim and rebuild.
Last edited by AMCQ46 on Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
AMcQ
Re: Valve Clearances
You'll be ok to continue to use the bike a fraction tight on the shims, but get it done when you can.
Dunno whether you have a heated garage, but I'd be tempted to wait until the weather improves a bit.
Dunno whether you have a heated garage, but I'd be tempted to wait until the weather improves a bit.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: Valve Clearances
My front clearences were tight as well engine was making ticking noise whem warm on tick over it will take half a day if u take your time 
Re: Valve Clearances
Thanks for your replies.
My bike is pretty stripped down (both cam covers and forks are off the bike), so taking on board what has been said I guess I'd be dumb not to............just a bit nervous about removing cam sprocket and camshaft. Guess I'll just take my time, work methodically and take the plunge. I know I will be happier knowing the clearances are well within spec.
One further question please - what kind of sealant do you guys recommend for the cam cover on re-assembly.........is there a specific Honda "liquid gasket" I should get?
Thanks again[img][http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/4605/dsc09249h.jpg]
My bike is pretty stripped down (both cam covers and forks are off the bike), so taking on board what has been said I guess I'd be dumb not to............just a bit nervous about removing cam sprocket and camshaft. Guess I'll just take my time, work methodically and take the plunge. I know I will be happier knowing the clearances are well within spec.
One further question please - what kind of sealant do you guys recommend for the cam cover on re-assembly.........is there a specific Honda "liquid gasket" I should get?
Thanks again[img][http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/4605/dsc09249h.jpg]
Re: Valve Clearances
Hi if u live in norfolk near east dereham will give u a helping hand at weekend
Re: Valve Clearances
Really nice offer but I live miles away in Staffordshirejd-man wrote:Hi if u live in norfolk near east dereham will give u a helping hand at weekend leave the cam sprocket on camshaft
Would like to hear more about leaving the sprocket on the camshaft though?
Re: Valve Clearances
Yes don't remove cam sprocket, with the CCT removed and the top guide off, there is enough slack to get the cam out complete.
No need for any gasket compound on the rubber seal, it is built to work dry and at low compression, just give it all a clean with some light oil and make sure the mikey mouse ears sit in the correct place.
No need for any gasket compound on the rubber seal, it is built to work dry and at low compression, just give it all a clean with some light oil and make sure the mikey mouse ears sit in the correct place.
AMcQ
Re: Valve Clearances
AMCQ46 wrote:Yes don't remove cam sprocket, with the CCT removed and the top guide off, there is enough slack to get the cam out complete.
No need for any gasket compound on the rubber seal, it is built to work dry and at low compression, just give it all a clean with some light oil and make sure the mikey mouse ears sit in the correct place.
Good news on both counts - it's just that there were remains of some soft rubber type sealant on my covers when I removed them.
Think I'll take the plunge this weekend.........it's comforting to know there is good advice on here if something goes tits up
Re: Valve Clearances
[quote="AMCQ46"]Yes don't remove cam sprocket, with the CCT removed and the top guide off, there is enough slack to get the cam out complete.
Any precaution I need to take to ensure timing is not messed up - like cable tying chain to the exhaust cam sprocket etc...?
Any precaution I need to take to ensure timing is not messed up - like cable tying chain to the exhaust cam sprocket etc...?
Re: Valve Clearances
Probably some silicone to stick it down in place to stop it moving when plopping on top the cam covers.Good news on both counts - it's just that there were remains of some soft rubber type sealant on my covers when I removed them.
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Re: Valve Clearances
How did you manage to get it up onto a workmate????
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Everything bad is good
Re: Valve Clearances
How did you manage to get it up onto a workmate????[/quote]
Photo is misleading....it's on a hydraulic bike bench, but sat on a piece of steel because the AbbaStand is wider than the bench.
Photo is misleading....it's on a hydraulic bike bench, but sat on a piece of steel because the AbbaStand is wider than the bench.