Further to Start clutch issues ( intermediate gear)

[darrenbiker]

Firstly, many thanks to all the guys on here who have helped me with my starting issue so far. Basically when I was pressing my starter it would turn over a few times gradually getting weaker then stop and just the relay would click. Having removed my starter and tested all was good with it so had to look further. ........After removing the alternator and start clutch *( b8stard of a job- used large adjustable on flat sides of rotor and a bit of scaffolding as a breaker bar on the really tight bolt. Once off used a MAN truck wheel bolt to drive the fly wheel off )....*.I have a few my issues ;

Does anyone have a removal process for the intermediate ( transfer p/n 28100-mbb-000) gear. Do I need to remove the fwd cam chain tensioner? I removed the pin and it's floating about but can't get it out. Also I need to source a replacement part...any ideas / sources.

Also;

When I remove the spring assy from the flywheel and just mesh the whole assy together minus the clutch part (which when tested as per Haynes and was as per) it all turned freely in both directions. However when adding the flywheel to the equation the gears were locking ( I had removed the started and was turning the gears anti clockwise as stated in the manual - should rotate anti clockwise but lock clockwise- my assy locks in the anti clock wise direction but spins freely clockwise). Is it possible the bearings on the start clutch are worn causing the gears to engage at the wrong angle thus locking up? This is proving to be a right pai

[darrenbiker]

My iPad crashed at the last line there lol.

This is proving to be a right pain in the ass and any help will be appreciated.


DARREN.

[tony.mon]

Yep.
The transfer gear WILL come out, but you need to pull it's axle out with magnet; it just sits in the inner housing after you've removed the alternator housing.
Once that's out, pushing the lower edge of the cam chain tensioner out of the way, as you've already unbolted the tensioner lower fixing you can push the transfer gear out through the slot in the crankcase.

It's a bit fiddly first time, much like Janice behind the bike shed at age 15.

The transfer gear will often look as though it's ok, effectively it's two gears friction fitted (pressed) onto a common shaft.
They are thoroughly solid when you try to turn one against the other, but under the amount of torque generated by the starter mechanism, they slip, usually with a squealy noise.

Just get a secondhand one and try that instead.

The sprag clutch will probably be ok if the rollers haven't worn with visible flats on them.

But the way you describe the engine turning over more and more slowly isn't indicative of a starter motor problem, more like a battery/earth/starter motor brushes problem.

Could you please try to keep to a single thread, because that makes it easier to go back and see what's been tried already.

[darrenbiker]

Thanks for your response , however there's no way that gear fits out of that hole.....I've removed the lower tensioner blade bolt and moved it up and out the way as much as i can which isnt much. The transfer gear (2 pressed together gears) is then free to float about a bit but will not for the life of me come out. Cheers

[tony.mon]

Yes, it does, move the lower end of the tensioner blade out of the way with a lever 9you won't damage anything) and it just squeezes out.
I've done it enough times to be sure.
You have removed the alternator cover, alt rotor and sprag clutch, haven't you?