CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) Fail Safe Mod. (aka Stopper Mod)

[sirch345]

Disclaimer
Every effort has been made to ensure that this guide is as accurate as possible, by following this guide you will doing so at your own risk. If you feel that you do not have the capabilities for the job then please seek the help of a professional mechanic. In no event will this forum or myself be held liable for any damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential damage that may possibly occur.

This is what I did, I think this is the same idea as Del's (delmeekc).

(1) Set-up the valve timing on the engine. The cylinder you're working on needs to be on the compression stroke at TDC aligning all timing marks just the same as if you were replacing the CCT's. See this link for setting the valve timing:- viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

(2) I made up a copy of the Honda locking key, details from the Haynes workshop manual. Using the key turn the worm in the rear CCT clockwise 1/4 of a turn and lock off, then remove CCT. On the front CCT turn the worm clockwise 1/2 a turn and lock off, then remove the CCT.
(The difference of 1/4 turn for the rear and 1/2 a turn for the front CCT is due to the fact that one CCT tightens up and the other slackens off when in use. So basically I've allowed 1/4 of a turn free play, allowing for expanding/shrinking of the different metals etc as they get hot when in use.)

(3) Next I removed the plunger pin so you can remove the plunger head see diagram below.

(4) You then need to work out what length rod you need to fill space 'A' see diagram. I used a piece of steel rod only a fraction smaller than the inside diameter of the plunger itself.

(5) Once you have the correct length rod you can then put it all back together.

I've put this in a thread of it's own for easier location.

Chris.

[Eclectic]

I figured Id make a quick .PDF of these so I could print them and have them with me when doing the work. Then figured they might be handy to other folk. So if so, here they are.

If you think they might help, feel free to put them in the OP Chris.

<=- Stopper mod

Also, INCASE anyone doesnt have a .PDF reader, a nice lightweight one can be found here

[sirch345]

Nice idea Eclectic, the only trouble is I've altered the second one (How to remove and refit CCT's on the firestorm), including changing the wording slightly and adding some colour for easier reading, which I've been meaning to do for a while. So if you can change the PDF into it's new format, that would be great

Cheers,

Chris.

[Eclectic]

My other post is updated with a link to your modified post, looks much better.

But for those who read before hitting a download (unlike me)

Updated file

[sirch345]

That's it, great Thanks Eclectic

Chris.

[flak monkey]

Nice little write up this, will be doing mine in a couple of weeks

[Diabolus]

Having had a new auto cct fitted to the front pot prior to buying the storm im thinking this would be a good idea or is a swap for manuals the best way to go????

If you guys recomend the stopper mod, does anyone have a length of the correct diameter rod I can buy off them??? or let me know the diameter and where to get it from.

[Wicky]

Best speak to bazza and see if he can convert your auto CCTs to manuals / or get APES or contact Mark http://kriegercamchaintensioners.com/ - If you go the stopper mod route they do stop your top end imploding when if/when the spring gives up but will also need replacing > back to square 1. Best do it all in one hit and go straight to manuals that once fitted will never need replacing.

[Diabolus]

are these the ones to go for??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... ink:top:en

[Wicky]

They're the beasties - fitted early one's on a friend's storm. Now he has a short bolt for the rear CCT and a longer one for the front for ease of access.

Go for it!

are these the ones to go for??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... ink:top:en

[darrenmartin]

ok guys, so could some one give me the definitive answer to the CCT repacement question.........if my bikes still got the OE fitted what is the best thing for me too do to save all of the moveey bits at the top of the 2 tall metal bits that make it go from going BANG POP and BANG a bit more!!!!

[turbo_billy]

All down to personal choice mate. Stopper mod involves re-using your existing Honda tensioners but with a length of tube fitted to avoid the tensioner fully retracting WHEN the spring eventually fails. After this happens you will still need to replace the tensioners so this only delays the inevitable. Manuals are a little more costly as you will replace both units with either custom made ones or modified Honda bodies. These will be fit and forget with only a routine check for correct tension from time to time BUT they WILL NOT fail.

[AMCQ46]

The stopper mod is the one I vote for every time

1) the self adjusting design of the CCT is there for a reason and it compensates for different temperatures and engine revs. It is the correct concept, just badly implemented.
2) I have personally seen 2 people with manuals have them back out with vibration and then they have bent the valves, so they caused the problem they were supposed to save, on top of those 2 there are another two on here who also had them come undone but they caught them just in time.
3) I have seen so many Manuals set far to tight, so the engine is struggling to spin over onthe starter, and it makes a little screech when it does get going........can you imagine what's happening to the cam bearing journals when that is happening? No oil and tight metal to metal contact!
4) the stock Honda parts can last a long time, and with the stopper mod done you can run them with no fear, and if it does fail, you can keep riding your bike till you have time to fix it.
5) the stopper mod cost nothing

So in my book, it is by far the best engineering solution, and it costs much less.......easy decision.....

[sirch345]

The stopper mod is the one I vote for every time

Why thank you young man

I'm obviously going to be a bit biased on this modification seeing as I came up with it

The brief to myself was to come up with a fail safe mod that would be fairly straight forward to do for forum members who have little or limited experience in mechanic's or engineering. It also had to allow for the original CCT to operate (as AMcQ mentions) as Mr Honda intended.

This modification was designed to work without the need to set the correct tension yourself for the cam chain as you will need to do when fitting manual tensioners such as Ape.

It's obviously up to anyone which modification they decide to carry out, after all it's your pride and joy.

Most things in life have a down side and as AMcQ has pointed out the down side of manual tensioners above. The down side with the Stopper Mod is you will need to replace the CCT if or when one fails, but you will have safe guarded your engine from any major damage.

Chris.

[mr.john.coates]

My contribution to this after just doing it:

1 - The dimensions of the locking tool in the Haynes manual are wrong I think. Make the tang (the business end) 3mm shorter else it won't lock. The proper dimensions are in the Honda workshop guide available on the forum.

2 - The stopper can be made from 8mm diameter bar - I used the plain part of an M8 bolt shank cut down. They will work out at about 11mm long each.

3 - You need a 2mm pin punch to get the roll pins out. Not having one I used the shank off an old 2mm drill ground off square.

4 - Do take the generator access plug out first - if you can't remove this easily you can waste hours faffing with it. Accept it'll get ruined and plan for replacing it.

Mr. J