Clutch Replacement

[seb421]

Clutch on this replacement engine is on its way out, it got closer and closer to the end of the lever movement and down the motorway tonight felt it slip and spin up whist i was over taking a truck

So not sure how long its got left under gentle riding, the g/f is going to go wombles nuts when i tell her im gona have to spend some more money, she wombles hates the Firestorm and views it as a money pit.


Think im going to get this kit when i get paid, not to much money I guess with springs included

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-1997-VT ... 194wt_1392


Do i need to buy a special removal tool like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-VTR-100 ... 750wt_1392

i don't want to have to spend that on a tool i might use once every 5 years or so


Is it easy to do the clutch plates and springs?

If i do need a tool can anybody lend one out? or for a small loan fee etc?

Thanks guys

[tony.mon]

Those EBC Kevlar plates are what I run in mine.
Although they warn that take-up can be quicker than with standard ones I didn't notice any problems.

The tool is only for removing the clutch basket; you don't need to do that when just removing plates, only if the clutch centre bearing is worn and needs replacing.
They're all worn a bit, so don't worry unless it's too much.

But even when quite worn it just rattles until the lever's pulled in, so no biggie.

You might want to fit the uprated springs while you're in there, and don't forget to have a clutch side gasket to hand, and to remove the clutch lever before taking the slave cyl off.

While you're in there, could you look at the posts that the springs sit on and theier wells?
See if there are any wear marks from the springs to be seen...

Just a bit of research i'm doing into clutch grab issues.
Ta

[seb421]

Thanks mate, so i can tackle this with out any flash tools then

this engine does have a slight ducati dry clutch rattle style noise when sat in neutral, could this be a sign that bearing is going?

Will report back on the findings with pictures

[VTRDark]

You should be fine changing the clutch plates yourself. A bit of advice, when undoing the the clutch bolts and springs. On the pressure plate to undo them, do that in a a diagonal pattern a bit at a time. I normally leave a couple of bolts hand tight near the end of the thread and hold the pressure plate and and undo the last bolts by hand. Try not to let it all spring off. You are going to want to take the old metal disks and clutch plates out one at a time making a note of which order they all go in. I normally remove one at a time and stack each bit down exactly as it comes out.

The other thing when tightening up the clutch bolts and springs back on to the pressure plate. Do them up in a diagonal pattern, each bolt a bit at a time. And don't over tighten them. On my fazer I decided to do mine to the specified torque one day and one of those cheap, weak Jap bolts snapped. I would have been better off doing by feel with a standard ratchet. O and a bit of thread lock would not be amiss.

Those EBC Kevlar plates are what I run in mine.
Although they warn that take-up can be quicker than with standard ones I didn't notice any problems.

What about Barnett (not the houses ) are they worth the money?

Have Fun.

(:-})

[Steve6088]

I did this in 1 hour last weekend. My clutch was slipping quite bad. However when I got to the clutch plates they were not worn at all. I put I different set of 2nd hand plates in and heavier springs and the slipping has now stopped. I presume the springs were the cause.

Sorry Tony, I still need to upload the pictures for you.

[tony.mon]

]What about Barnett (not the houses ) are they worth the money?



(:-})

I did have a clutch in Barnet some years ago with a nice young lady from Pinner; she wasn't nice at all as it turned out, and I didn't have any change on me, so it went no further.

She was a hairdresser, though.

But to answer your question, never tried one.
They seem to have a good reputation, though, so you shouldn't be disappointed*.




(*except by the young lady from Pinner, unless you have change).

[Kev L]

There was a young lady from Pinner
Who made Tony feel like a winner,
But the absence of cash
meant he avoided a rash,
and now he spends all his time with his spanners!!
With apologies.

[tony.mon]

Apologies accepted.

[VTRDark]

How are you getting on with it Seb or are you waiting till the end of the month. ££££££

Update please.

(:-})

[seb421]

How are you getting on with it Seb or are you waiting till the end of the month. ££££££

Update please.

(:-})

pay day this Friday mate before i can order

[agentpineapple]

get a slipper clutch from germany mate...........
only 500ish quid

[StormingHonda]

I got a clutch removal tool if you need to borrow one.

[seb421]

Those EBC Kevlar plates are what I run in mine.
Although they warn that take-up can be quicker than with standard ones I didn't notice any problems.

The tool is only for removing the clutch basket; you don't need to do that when just removing plates, only if the clutch centre bearing is worn and needs replacing.
They're all worn a bit, so don't worry unless it's too much.

But even when quite worn it just rattles until the lever's pulled in, so no biggie.

You might want to fit the uprated springs while you're in there, and don't forget to have a clutch side gasket to hand, and to remove the clutch lever before taking the slave cyl off.

While you're in there, could you look at the posts that the springs sit on and theier wells?
See if there are any wear marks from the springs to be seen...

Just a bit of research i'm doing into clutch grab issues.
Ta

was doing clutch yesterday

is this ok, looks like its been twated?











old clutch



and new clutch back on with the new stiffer springs



i did my best to keep the springs perfectly aliened with the washer on the bolts, looked like one or two of the old bolts had slipped from the washers central position but not enough to mark the sides if at all possible?

Hope the pics are okay Tony

Gasket has just turned up too so I can go and fit the case back together once I have got the old one fully off

[VTRDark]

was doing clutch yesterday

is this ok, looks like its been twated?

When I saw the first pic it looked OK and I was wondering what you where referring to. When I scrolled down to the other pics, it looks like the clutch basket is not round and a bit distorted. It may be just the angle of the pics, not sure. Lets see what Tony has to say.

(:-})

[seb421]

Just put the cover back on and noticed it says in the Haynes that I should use a sealent on the crankcrank case joints under the gasket , should I take it back off , only sealent I have to hand is loctite 5922 Flange Sealant,
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 55217#tab1
is this okay to use? Or can I get away with out using a sealant?

Thanks