Clutch Replacement

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VTRDark
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by VTRDark »

I've done that sort of thing so many times. The amount of times I would be riding down the road and think, did I lock the back door :crazy: It would play on my mind and I would have to turn back to double check. :lol:

(:-})
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tony.mon
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by tony.mon »

They won't undo by themselves, due to the spring tension.
Good that you fixed the slipping.

But does it still grab?

And di you see any marks where the springs had been bearing on the clutch housing?
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seb421
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by seb421 »

tony.mon wrote:They won't undo by themselves, due to the spring tension.
Good that you fixed the slipping.

But does it still grab?

And di you see any marks where the springs had been bearing on the clutch housing?
Couldn't see any mate thankfully , it would have been a good idea for Honda to mabe fit washers that had turned over edges or a lip or flange don't know the word I'm looking for but basicaly to stop those springs from slipping of there center axis

Yeh its spot on now tony no slip no grab , from the short run up the estate anyway, will report back if there are any issues, bled the clutch as well.
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tony.mon
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by tony.mon »

seb421 wrote:
Couldn't see any mate thankfully , it would have been a good idea for Honda to mabe fit washers that had turned over edges or a lip or flange don't know the word I'm looking for but basicaly to stop those springs from slipping of there center axis

Yeh its spot on now tony no slip no grab , from the short run up the estate anyway, will report back if there are any issues, bled the clutch as well.
I don't know what you'd call them either, but some are heading my way this weekend for evaluation. If they work I'll let you all know.

Good it's sorted, see you on the drag strip then.
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Rob
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by Rob »

Any idea how many miles that clutch had done before it started slipping?

Glad you got it sorted, looked pretty easy to do.
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seb421
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by seb421 »

Rob wrote:Any idea how many miles that clutch had done before it started slipping?

Glad you got it sorted, looked pretty easy to do.
Think that engine had done about 30,000 when i got it and i put another 2 and half on it mate before it was going

Clutch in my other engine was still fine at 36 K, possibly just been either ridden hard or used for town commute more this replacement engine? who knows, my original mainly went up and down the motorway.
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seb421
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by seb421 »

tony.mon wrote:
seb421 wrote:
Couldn't see any mate thankfully , it would have been a good idea for Honda to mabe fit washers that had turned over edges or a lip or flange don't know the word I'm looking for but basicaly to stop those springs from slipping of there center axis

Yeh its spot on now tony no slip no grab , from the short run up the estate anyway, will report back if there are any issues, bled the clutch as well.
I don't know what you'd call them either, but some are heading my way this weekend for evaluation. If they work I'll let you all know.

Good it's sorted, see you on the drag strip then.
:thumbup:

Can i get a set tony now you have them i don't have issues as yet but didn't like how i saw my springs sat when i did the clutch, cash waiting.... :thumbup:
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tony.mon
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by tony.mon »

Seb, I have a couple of sets but they're being used for evaluation purposes initially.

This means people who can re-create the clutch grabbing fairly easily. There's no point in fitting them to either a bike that isn't displaying symptoms of grabbing, or to owners who aren't pulling away hard enough, regularly enough to make the problem occur.

The trials are very simple, you do a few (suggest five) hard fast pull-aways from cold, and record how many times it grabs.
Then the same from hot.
If you can't get it to grab (and you'll definitely know when and if you do.....) there's no point in trying to cure.

Now we have some baseline data, you swap out the dished washers for the standard ones (they need to be cut off the original bolts, but the bolts can be re-used) and nothing else (apart form the clutch gasket if it's torn) is changed.
Try not to move the spring positions.

Then do the test launches again, and report the results.

Some people will say that the tests will put some wear on the clutch, and they're right, there will be some extra wear to the friction plates, but it'll do a lot less damage than getting clutch grab, which is mechanically ruinous to the bearings and transmission. If the clutch wasn't slipping before the tests it will be fine afterwards.

I'm fitting two sets myself (mine and Duffy's) and with the test results will be able to see if the problem is solved.

Mine have been fitted, and despite ragging it (as ever) I can't get it to grab.
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seb421
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by seb421 »

a clutch isn't to dear to replace any way,

is it okay to do race starts on a cold engine? ive never ran my bike cold maybe once or twice when i have not had enough petrol to warm it up and get to the fuel station but that's it in the four years ive had it

on this engine i've not had any trouble but the old one when i have race started it and the clutch was starting to go id get that awful grinding noise that's about it mate to be honest
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by tony.mon »

The cylinder liners need to be warmed but they'll get warm after a few hundred yards.
The oil needs to thin enough to run like water instead of cold oil, but that doesn't take more than a couple of minutes.

By cold I mean trying to get the engine to do the starts when the fan's kicking in is too hot; it should be allowed to stand for ten mins before trying it. Naturally it'll heat up on the temp gauge while doing the starts, so a few tries when the engine's at a normal operating temp, then a few when it's been ragged to fan-cutting-in point will be what's needed.

Actually Benny Hedges and I tried to reduce the likelihood of grabbing last time we were on the drag strip; nothing seemed to make a lot of difference, even pushing the bike to the line after leaving it for half an hour then running it didn't stop it happening.
It seems to be just provoked by the clutch being fed in more after the initial bite point, or the throttle being opened harder after the initial bite point and initial launch.

But as a general point these engines don't have close tolerances, and don't seize if run hard from cold.
It's just nicer and kinder not to do it, especially when it's an icy day, and the oil's thickened up, before it gets thinner after a couple of minutes running.
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by lloydie »

mine has grabbed when in first gear and clutch is held all the way in and reved it to 3.5k :(
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by tony.mon »

lloydiecbr wrote:mine has grabbed when in first gear and clutch is held all the way in and reved it to 3.5k :(
If that's true there's something else wrong with your clutch.
Just revving the engine shouldn't cause the grabbing; it only happens as you're feeding the clutch home but before it's fully engaged, as you open the throttle more once you're moving.

Do you get any trouble getting it into neutral, and if you just sit there in first with the clutch fully in, does it start to creep forward after a while?
If so, could be slave seals, MC seals, or you need to bleed the clutch line....
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by lloydie »

tony.mon wrote:
lloydiecbr wrote:mine has grabbed when in first gear and clutch is held all the way in and reved it to 3.5k :(
If that's true there's something else wrong with your clutch.
Just revving the engine shouldn't cause the grabbing; it only happens as you're feeding the clutch home but before it's fully engaged, as you open the throttle more once you're moving.

Do you get any trouble getting it into neutral, and if you just sit there in first with the clutch fully in, does it start to creep forward after a while?
If so, could be slave seals, MC seals, or you need to bleed the clutch line....
sorry i should have been more clear .
i have adjustable levers on mine so all the way in on mine aint all the way in with normal levers or set in the normal position . its just how i like it set pluss i have one finger between the lever and the bar ,bit like a hair trigger :lol: . if i set the clutch lever to the normal position it will only grab upon feeding it out . my bad sorry
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by tony.mon »

That makes more sense.

So effectively the clutch is halfway out, then as you feed in more throttle it grabs.
That's exactly what happens during a fast take-off, but without you going forward.

Might be less risky to test it that way- I'll have a play.
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Re: Clutch Replacement

Post by lloydie »

tony.mon wrote:That makes more sense.

So effectively the clutch is halfway out, then as you feed in more throttle it grabs.
That's exactly what happens during a fast take-off, but without you going forward.

Might be less risky to test it that way- I'll have a play.
your more than welcome to :thumbup:
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