sprockets
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scott02464
- Posts: 796
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2011 2:04 pm
- Location: Tadcaster- Near York
sprockets
I've got a 14t front sprocket and standard rear (41) and bloody love it! It gave me brutal exelleration!toonarmy wrote:can someone give me the idiot explanation of changing the amount of teeth on the front and rear sprockets sorry daft geordie lol
But are you wanting to know why it makes a difference?
Re: sprockets
To keep it short and simple, for every plus there's usually a minus.toonarmy wrote:can someone give me the idiot explanation of changing the amount of teeth on the front and rear sprockets sorry daft geordie lol
If you go smaller on the front and larger at the rear from standard, you well accelerate quicker but loose top end
If you go larger at the front and smaller at the rear then the opposite will occur, plus I think it would go a lot lumpier than it already is as standard
I went one tooth down at the front and two up at the rear, it's like being on a bloody fair ground ride, love it
Like what you do
Do what you like He who wonders isn't always lost
Do what you like He who wonders isn't always lost
Re: sprockets
Here's a link for various chain and sprocket setups for sale http://www.ukbikeparts.net/acatalog/Cha ... storm.html
Also IIRC dropping 1 tooth on the front is the equivalent of going 2 up on the rear.
If you leave the front the same and add teeth to the rear, this shortens the chain and creates a shorter wheelbase. Cornering becomes quicker.
(:-})
Also IIRC dropping 1 tooth on the front is the equivalent of going 2 up on the rear.
If you leave the front the same and add teeth to the rear, this shortens the chain and creates a shorter wheelbase. Cornering becomes quicker.
(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: sprockets
Additionally you'll change the revs for a set speed in a particular gear.
For example, Storms are quite lazy in top on the motorway, but lowering the gearing (smaller front or larger rear or both) will mean the engine's revving higher at that speed and gear combination than it was before.
When I popped over to Valencia for the MotoGP I put the gearing back to standard for the trip as I didn't want to have buzzy bar vibes all the way there and back.
But the advantage is that you can ride slower in town, and not have to slip the clutch when trickling through traffic, and faster acceleration as has been said.
the reverse of all these applies if the raise the gearing.
Normally bikes are geared to pull max revs in top, but how often do you sit flat out in top, and for how long?
So gearing for the majority of your riding is more sensible.
I'd advise changing the sprockets and chain as a set, but if you're just trying different ratios then fit a set and swap sprockets over while the chain is still new, first few weeks or so. swapping the front does less damage to a chain that swapping a rear, as there are less links in contact with the sprocket as it rotates at any time.
You'll find that when you change gearing the speedo over or under reads, but you can either live with that or get a speedo healer.
I played with gearing when using mine on the drag strip- as I came up to the line it hit the rev limiter in third, and was over the line by the time I had fourth home and engaged, so I lost drive for the last few metres. So I changed to a lower front, and got into fourth from about forty metres away from the line.
Alternatively I could have gone longer by adding a tooth to the rear, and just be running out of third as I went past the line- one less gearchange, and this would have probably been quicker.
But I'd only taken a change of fronts with me.
Currently it pulls one tooth less on the front, but then I have more power than a standard bike.
For example, Storms are quite lazy in top on the motorway, but lowering the gearing (smaller front or larger rear or both) will mean the engine's revving higher at that speed and gear combination than it was before.
When I popped over to Valencia for the MotoGP I put the gearing back to standard for the trip as I didn't want to have buzzy bar vibes all the way there and back.
But the advantage is that you can ride slower in town, and not have to slip the clutch when trickling through traffic, and faster acceleration as has been said.
the reverse of all these applies if the raise the gearing.
Normally bikes are geared to pull max revs in top, but how often do you sit flat out in top, and for how long?
So gearing for the majority of your riding is more sensible.
I'd advise changing the sprockets and chain as a set, but if you're just trying different ratios then fit a set and swap sprockets over while the chain is still new, first few weeks or so. swapping the front does less damage to a chain that swapping a rear, as there are less links in contact with the sprocket as it rotates at any time.
You'll find that when you change gearing the speedo over or under reads, but you can either live with that or get a speedo healer.
I played with gearing when using mine on the drag strip- as I came up to the line it hit the rev limiter in third, and was over the line by the time I had fourth home and engaged, so I lost drive for the last few metres. So I changed to a lower front, and got into fourth from about forty metres away from the line.
Alternatively I could have gone longer by adding a tooth to the rear, and just be running out of third as I went past the line- one less gearchange, and this would have probably been quicker.
But I'd only taken a change of fronts with me.
Currently it pulls one tooth less on the front, but then I have more power than a standard bike.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.