lloydiecbr wrote:Linear spring are the way foreword if you like to play hard .
But if you like to just plod around then progressive is the answer .
Getting it set up to how you like it is a long hard challenge for wet and dry use .
Having confidence in the bike is key and knowing how each change works but it needs to be ridden hard to find how it works .
Best of luck with getting it right for yourself and your needs
This is my first bike after a 10 yr absence (I’d not even ridden off road in that time) so I took the safe option, I was a bit concerned that the linear springs maybe to harsh so I went for the progressive option in the hope that they'd make the bike easy and more forgiving to ride, and to a large extent this proved to be the case but now I'm a bit happier on the bike I can see that they are a compromise, I may yet switch to linear and investigate a rear damper if I keep the bike into next year. I'm aiming for a dry weather set up, I try to avoid rain as I ride for pleasure not to get soaking wet plus the supercorsas don't like the rain it doesn't take alot for them to spin up
I've now gone all European and bought a KTM Superduke GT and Aprilia RSV1000R ,
Storm is now gone . .
budd wrote: secondly I’d probably try to find the funds for a replacement rear damper, whether that be a aftermarket (nitron, ohlins etc) or a adapted Honda damper would be governed in my case by available funds but I think almost any thing would be an improvement on the obviously tired 16yr old original, so what now? well riding the thing would be nice but the weather is so poor I’m not get out on it as much as I’d like, but I’m now on the lookout for a suitable damper, S/H ones occasionally pop up on ebay or even on here, and I may change the springs to linear at some point probably over the winter.
There are some good experiences with racetech internals in oem rear damper, but you need to find the shop who will do it for you, it is not work for home garage. But I would go with new rear damper with adjustable compression, it is quite useful especially when you go on track sometimes - affect tyre wear.
I think by the time you've messed about rebulding the OE damper with new internals you may as well go for a complete aftermarket replacement, I'd really like a Nitron with seperate comp / rebound damping, I used Nitron on my TVR and was very impressed with both the dampers and Nitron themselves Guy Evans at Nitron was very helpful and will trailor dampers to suit specific requirements . But I have to decide whether buying a new damper is worth it for a aging bike and the limited miles I've been doing, I'm still on the lookout for a used one bu they don't come along that often.
I've now gone all European and bought a KTM Superduke GT and Aprilia RSV1000R ,
Storm is now gone . .
budd wrote:I think by the time you've messed about rebulding the OE damper with new internals you may as well go for a complete aftermarket replacement, I'd really like a Nitron with seperate comp / rebound damping, I used Nitron on my TVR and was very impressed with both the dampers and Nitron themselves Guy Evans at Nitron was very helpful and will trailor dampers to suit specific requirements . But I have to decide whether buying a new damper is worth it for a aging bike and the limited miles I've been doing, I'm still on the lookout for a used one bu they don't come along that often.
I agree, but rebuilding is still cheaper. Racetech internals could cost about 200 pounds. But it is more hypothetical option. Just for interest, Roger Ditchifield offers Penske shock build for VTR for 595, but this is comparable with Nitron.
I ride rebuilt CBR600 F4i shock from Jamie Daugherty, but together with overseas transport cost, price was about 380 pounds - but it was completely serviced and with spring matched, what could be problem with used shocks.
the basic Nitron the NTR sport for the VTR specced to your personal requirements is £308 +vat which I don't think is bad even though it as combined bump-comp adjustment, the NTR Track is £432 + the dreaded vat, again not a crazy amount for a high quaility damper with seperate adjustment, another plus point of buying a aftermarket item is they have decent resale value, much better than a modded OE damper so when you sell the bike simply refit the OE and sell on the aftermarket one, a modded used bikes price is rarely muh more than a similar condition stock bike so at least you'll get some of the outlay back.
I've now gone all European and bought a KTM Superduke GT and Aprilia RSV1000R ,
Storm is now gone . .
I have the basic Nitron sport unit and am pretty impressed with both build quality and performance, and also the service from the team at the factory. I would recommend.
budd: I saw track shock for 518 at intobikes, your price ie good, maybe it is better choice over used shock. You guys in UK has to know better where to buy Nitron :-)
Stephan wrote:budd: I saw track shock for 518 at intobikes, your price ie good, maybe it is better choice over used shock. You guys in UK has to know better where to buy Nitron :-)
I wouldn't imagine nitron have a retail outlet in the Czech rep, so I'd guess the best thing to do would be to contact them direct, http://www.nitron.co.uk/site/contact/contact_us.aspx
email them your details and see what they com up with, it's quite a long while since I dealt them re sports car kit at which time they were much smaller company making dampers for just a few typwes of kit cars and sports cars ie TVR , Lotus, and didn't do even do bike stuff it seems they've been very successfull over the years and have grown from the small almost family company to a much larger outfit I hope they've retained the excellent customer service of old.
I've now gone all European and bought a KTM Superduke GT and Aprilia RSV1000R ,
Storm is now gone . .
This thing about "progressive" springs is really a myth and do not exist .You cannot ride on soft bits of spring and suddenly the strong bits take over.You are simply shortening the working part of the spring.The standard ones are not 'pro' springs but use part of the overall length as a safety buffer against coil lock.A marketing ploy which has sold loads of over priced springs.It is basic maths,three men who can each lift ten stone standing on each others shoulders can only hold up a beam of ten stone .If one of the men is replaced by someone who can only lift six he would be pointless and drop it.
I have have not had chance to read through my favourite site for a while but can see that a few people are not happy with the front end on this bike.First off I will say that these forks are as good as any other I've come across at any price they just need a little thought.Seeing that a fork is only two tubes that slide one inside the other takes away most of the mystery.One of the biggest faults I have found has been caused by Honda giving bad service advice.Who would say their forks feel plush? ,that's because the top bushes are running dry due to air lock.When other owners have compared mine they mention it straight away .When filling this type of fork with oil I do it before fitting the seals or I drill bleed holes in the stanchions in the right place.Valving is no big secret either they work just the same way as do lorry springs stacked together and are easy to tune.Thinner oil is the quickest route with vtr forks.
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