Did the old service on the bike this weekend and even managed to change the plugs. Thanks for the tips, used a bit of rubber hose to locate and twist. Doesn't seem to clunk as much going into 1st now!
The plug tool in the bike toolkit worked ok, but it wasn't really longenough for the front cylinder. Ended up cobbling sockets together to reach.
Got the ngk dpr9eix-9's from a local bike dealer in Sheffield, £8 each and they seem to work a treat.
Next step, fluid changes. Going to borrow a bleed kit from a mate, should make life easier?
toolkit.
T00lkit
Red F2, Scorpion Race Cans, Nuvo Airflow Screen, GSG Moko Crash Protectors, Carbon Hugger by Del, Scottoiler.
Same here, changed filter, oil, plugs. Swapped hoses to Goodridge braided and replaced fluid. Definately suggest bleed kit as it was a pain in the butt.
Balanced the carbs as well with the vacuum tube kit avalable on ebay for £12. How accurate is this tube/mercury ball system? Anyone else used it? The lower ball was dancing around and it seems difficult to get it exactly underneath.
Having fit aftermarket pipes which pop a bit, I was hoping the carbs were way out, but they weren't. I adjusted the carb screw very slightly, but the pipes still pop, (no leaks in the exhaust) so I think it must be running a bit lean.
Oh yes, I have a scottoiler, fitted on the bike when I got it. Are there any 'maintenance' issues with it? How can you tell if it is working as it should be, other than having a dry/oily chain?
Hi BigD,
I also purchased a £12 carb balancer from ebay. I found the ball bearing moved a small amount left and right to the stationary one above, but the same amount each side of the stationary one if you can understand that, which to me meant it did not need adjusting.
How did you get on re-fitting the allen headed bolt to the front inlet manifold, I found it a right pain, probably because I have fairly large hands.
cheers Chris.
PS. I thought the balancer was a brilliant idea, simple and very good value for the money!
i have just balanced my carbs using a kit from busters i was using the guide from gregs v twin site http://webpages.charter.net/gnemish/index.html
it was ok untill i had to find the adjusting screw that could have been shown beter. but all done and they were not far out anyway.
but that front allen screw is a right pain to get back in and i have small hands. what ever you do dont drop it
Hi Logan,
Yeah I did drop the b*****d so I did what I should have done in the first place, covered over all the openings where it could fall with masking tape. It was a good job I have a telescopic aerial type pen with a strong magnet on the end, which after moving it around a bit managed to fish it out. It took me longer to get that allen screw in than to do the rest of the job, as you definetly do not want to cross thread it,
Chris.
.....now I'm worried . My Mate connected the front carb and he didn't have to piss about with the allen headed screw.
Del's idiots guide said this 'First you need to see whether you have a front vacuum take off point or whether it still has the standard M5 allen bolt in it.' Mine appears to have a brass threaded nipple and attached to this is what I can only describe as a mini spark plug lead Any ideas what this is?
Sorry to appear thick, but I'm just learnin'
The above was edited from last nights post following an inspection this morning!
Last edited by BigD on Tue Apr 26, 2005 9:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hi Guys,
The next time you have to remove the front M5 bolt stick a big dollop of grease on the end of the allen key. It should make it stick to it and save you a bucket load of swearing and fishing about. Do the same when replacing it as well
Think I've sussed what it is. Its the Scottoiler which has been routed to the front cylinder, which by all accounts is good news Makes balancing the carbs a doddle as the scottoiler comes off, vacuum gauge goes on. Voila. If thats not right you will tell me won't you