Sort of...stoper mod can still fail & what I don't get is what happens when they do & how do know they have?cybercarl wrote:Good advice Mac.and your reasoning for manuals being better (correct me if I'm wrong) is that once manuals are fitted properly, you are done and dusted with them as they will not fail or need any attention ie adjustment for 20,000, or more than likely your next valve clearance check. Where as with the stopper mod, they can still fail but wont cause any damage and will need replacing again.
Fitted properly is why I am coming around to the idea of the stopper mod. Can you imagine the problems the likes of mr image (no offence meant) will have setting the tension correctly with all this talk of finger tight, if asking questions like this.Ref the ebay link, is that the actual stopper bar itself or a tool for adjustment?![]()
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If it's just a straight replacement then they can break as well & I assume again & again.
Fit manuals once & job done may be a bit of adjustment now & then. If IIRC Bazza told me he has never had to adjust his since fitting.
The argument about mechanical proficiency is a bit on the weak side IMO as you still have to do almost all the strip down work weather its stopper or manuals, but with stopper you add the complexity of the added engineering & getting that correct as well ! With manuals lock off,remove, measure, set & replace.
However after saying all that whilst I did my own manuals under supervision & piss taking from Tony & Bazza & have watched Tony do a stopper mod conversion on Mervs bike, I may or may not be the most qualified mechanically to make the assumptions.
That is real reason for the advice to get a fellow forum member to help. Remember there have been a few owners who have entrusted a ''mechanic'' to do the work & they have cocked it up re the timing.
Make you right about the
