TPS/Carb jetting/Cans!!

[VTRDark]

god knows how you managed to take that picture whilst adjusting the tps

Helmet cam

only problem I found was after I balanced the carbs, I ended up lowering the idle speed

Interesting you should say that, because I have been doing a bit of reading on the Hawk site recently and some do say that the TPS should be set at idle speed. Now this does seem logical to me. But it will be a biatch to get spot on 500 some patience involved Then there are others that say to set while the bike is not running. So seems there are two schools of thought. There is no mention of either way on Factory Pro's site.

I just set mine to 500 off the bike and left it at that. It improved things immensely with regards to carb farts and the odd bit of stalling I got. I think I may have to start experimenting with this and get it on 500 at idle and see how/if it effects things. The only problem is my jetting/tuning is not spot on at the mo as I have been experimenting and playing around

Well done Griff How did you get on with the carb removal, all simple enough? Nice to see you getting stuck in. The right tool for the job always helps Keep us updated on how the TPS affects things for you

(:-})

[lloydie]

A fiddly little job but well worth it .
I set mine on tick over when the engine is up to temp .

[VTRDark]

OK time for a bit of experimentation and fettling then

(:-})

[Griff1977]

Carl. Cheers for that. Carbs off job was fine. Took several pics to remember pipe routing etc. Done balance prep (t piece) so carbs on soon!! Then I'll balance with air box off to help with adjs. I really enjoy this stuff but just need to be careful my plans don't exceed my ability/knowledge! I'm taking the bike to a local (Hull) place to install FP jet kit & +4 adv and set up on Dyno in new year.

Oh 1 Q: I've already bought a clutch cover gasket ready for adv fitting, will I need the water pump housing o ring aswell ? Griff.

[agentpineapple]

i have the right tool for the job......he's called carl.......

[Griff1977]

i have the right tool for the job......he's called carl.......

Brill. I wish I had a Carl!!!

[VTRDark]

I'll balance with air box off to help with adjs

If you have the front vaccum take off done you shouldn't need to have the airbox off. Just prob the front of the tank up with the bike running, and you have access to the adjuster with a 7mm open ended spanner through the frame.

I really enjoy this stuff but just need to be careful my plans don't exceed my ability/knowledge!

That's what places like this forum are here for. In this day and age where one is counting their pennies, there's plenty of people like us that like to venture and do own, servicing, maintenance etc.

I'm taking the bike to a local (Hull) place to install FP jet kit & +4 adv and set up on Dyno in new year.

Yes I'm looking forward to the results from that. I may even get a couple of drill bits to experiment on my spare carbs.

Sounds like the garage will be best bet for you, but have a read through the Carb Tuning Guide http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=14214
I recently added some relevant info on there. I'm going to sound like a hawker here but have a search on fitting the +4 advancer. I think Tony has a post on here somewhere.

It will be good if you have an insight before it goes into the garage. Then you can ask them any relevant questions/query's and make sure their doing a good job

Oh 1 Q: I've already bought a clutch cover gasket ready for adv fitting, will I need the water pump housing o ring aswell

TBH I have yet to remove my clutch housing or water pump. So I'm unsure on that one. But while your in there maybe it's a good time to change it anyway.

Have fun

Blimey that took ages, I must learn to type faster

(:-})

For fooks sake I just went to post this and seen the new posts PMSL

I've left you some crumbs Too much

(:-})

[VTRDark]

will I need the water pump housing o ring aswell ? Griff.

OK I have checked, and the answer is no, You don't need to open the water pump.

A good thread for Clutch casing removal
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 95#p234418

And the O ring is on page 6-12 in the workshop manual.

One more thing that will be a good idea, is to have some grease smeared on one side of the new clutch casing gasket. It will save you having to buy another one if the casing needs to be removed again in the future.



(:-})

[AMCQ46]

I can confirm that you don't need to touch the water pump cover when removing the clutch cover, you don't even need to drain the oil, just do the job on the side stand.

If doing the ignition advancer then make sure you hold together the anti backlash gear that sits behind it. You can put a bolt through a locking hole on the plastic gear, but also cable tie the assembly incase it all springs apart.

When putting the new gasket on the clutch, put a fine coat of grease on one side and leave the other side dry and clean. Then when you take the cover off next time the gasket will only be stuck to the dry side and can be reused over and over.

[Griff1977]

Cool, thanks guys. Ill let you know how it all goes. Griff

[Griff1977]

good work griff, god knows how you managed to take that picture whilst adjusting the tps, very skillful indeed.....

Ah Marty, that'll be the wife!!

Great progress today. Carbs cleaned-whilst off, sprayed with carb cleaner. Carbs back on. All bits re-attached. Though I did get worried when I discovered a random, medium bore type pipe, coming from left hand lower down to up near back of tank. It was only pipe that was not attached but I didn't detach it the other day. Gives it a wiggle and it ain't attached to anything lower down either!! Oh we'll. pulled it out. Saved weight!

Anyway. All back on. Tank propped up. Starter pressed. Boom. Starts first time...instantly!! These stick coils are ace!!

Only had it running for 20 mins but starts quicker-as in kicks in before I can release the starter button. Not used to that. And it hardly needs choke either. This could be TPS as well I guess.

Anyway. Still semi naked (the bike) and waiting for beaver relay kit to be delivered and Givi top box mount bracket! Ace!

Griff.

[VTRDark]

Though I did get worried when I discovered a random, medium bore type pipe, coming from left hand lower down to up near back of tank. It was only pipe that was not attached but I didn't detach it the other day

When you say lower do you mean fairing lower/belly pan. You will have the ends of the tank breather and overflow down there. So on the tank you have the two that attach directly underneath (breather and overflow) then on the tap you have the twoo fuel lines and the vacuum that goes behind the fuel line.

to up near back of tank

I hope this wasn't the vacuum.

And it hardly needs choke either.

That's interesting, did you require the choke before the stick coils?

Well done

(:-})

[Griff1977]

Though I did get worried when I discovered a random, medium bore type pipe, coming from left hand lower down to up near back of tank. It was only pipe that was not attached but I didn't detach it the other day

When you say lower do you mean fairing lower/belly pan. You will have the ends of the tank breather and overflow down there. So on the tank you have the two that attach directly underneath (breather and overflow) then on the tap you have the twoo fuel lines and the vacuum that goes behind the fuel line.

to up near back of tank

I hope this wasn't the vacuum.

And it hardly needs choke either.

That's interesting, did you require the choke before the stick coils?

Well done

(:-})

Carl, yep on tank I have the 4: breather & overflow plus two fuel lines. All good.

The pipe I took out was rotten! Some of it had hardened, chaffed, holes in it. Strange!

A great day anyhooo!!!

[VTRDark]

yep on tank I have the 4: breather & overflow plus two fuel lines

5 don't forget the vacuum that connects directly behind the left hand fuel line

Just double checking mate

It could be an old pipe by the sounds of the condition of it. But best to be sure.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

Great progress today. Carbs cleaned-whilst off, sprayed with carb cleaner. Carbs back on. All bits re-attached. Though I did get worried when I discovered a random, medium bore type pipe, coming from left hand lower down to up near back of tank. It was only pipe that was not attached but I didn't detach it the other day. Gives it a wiggle and it ain't attached to anything lower down either!! Oh we'll. pulled it out. Saved weight!

Griff.

That pipe is a breather from the tank's filler neck so that any spent fuel doesn't flow over the hot engine and exhausts.
It connects to one of the two breather spigots under the tank forwards of the petrol tap (if you have an old one) and as you say, exits lower front left.

Did you change plugs while you were there?
Often people do, then report a noticeable difference from the stick coil mod....
But it will start easier, because there's less voltage drop at the plug as the starter takes current turning the motor over. It's interesting to watch a voltmeter across the battery terminals as you crank it over on a cold day. You often see voltage dropping to ten or less, and with the amplifying effect of the coil, that means huge drops in spark voltage, hence more difficult starting in cold weather, the oil's cold and there's a lot more resistance in turning the engine over.