VTR1000F3 missing at low revs - any ideas?

[Ian E]

I've got a 53 reg. VTR1000F3 which I've had from new. At low revs occasionally the bike seems as though its going to cut out - not frequently, every 30 seconds or so. It sometimes does cut out. When revving the bike it seems fine.

I've tried new Iridium Spark plugs but this hasn't made a difference.

I had a problem with the bike a couple of times last year - not sure if this is related. It was down on power (wouldn't pull above 40mph! and slow to get there). Pulling over, leaving the bike parked up for ten minutes and then restarting seemed to cure the problem.

Tried getting it in at the local Honda dealers but the earliest I can get it booked in is June.

Any ideas what this could be?

Cheers,

Ian.

[Max]

Have you tried balancing the carbs, mine sometimes cuts out at traffic lights and balancing the carbs cures this. Its a bit awkward to do, but is worth doing . I think there was a thread on here last week or the week before about how to do it.

Max

[Ian E]

Hi Max,

Many thanks for the reply. Not tried balancing the carbs yet.

I don't have a carb guage but borrowed one for the last Storm and struggled to follow the instructions in the Haynes manual - very fiddly!

Might see if I can find a dealer that will do it for me.

Cheers,

Ian.

[logan7]

http://webpages.charter.net/gnemish/index.html
easy to do

[Ian E]

http://webpages.charter.net/gnemish/index.html
easy to do

Logan,

Thanks for the reply. Good instructions. Have you used these successfully? Where do you get the 't' piece from?

Cheers,

Ian.

[logan7]

http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/pr ... p?prod=EVG
got the twin set and the t comes with it. it was very easy to do the hardest bit was finding the adjusting screw. but its on the spring on the carb, it just looks different in the picture.

[Ian E]

http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/pr ... p?prod=EVG
got the twin set and the t comes with it. it was very easy to do the hardest bit was finding the adjusting screw. but its on the spring on the carb, it just looks different in the picture.

Logan,

Thats great - good price, thanks for the info. Do I need any of the 6mm adaptors listed?

Cheers,

Ian.

[Stratman]

Sounds like an air lock or sh1t in the carburettors to me. Carbs out of balance won't cause those symptoms. I know some people who fill the tank to the brim (upright at the pumps) can sometimes get a vaccuum which would cause similar symptoms too.

[logan7]

you dont need the 6mm adaptors

[Ian E]

Thanks for all the advice. I've ordered a set of vacuum gauges from Busters.

Cheers,

Ian.

[Ian E]

Logan7,

I am after some more advice if you don't mind. I got the guages through today. They came with two t-pieces but it says these are for damping of the guage. Did you use one of these t-pieces to put in line with hose - if so it looks quite restrictive when fully open, does this matter? How did you block the t-piece when the job was complete - just by part screwing the tap in?

I've looked at Haynes manual procedure and the instructions seem different. That says you need to clamp the fuel tap vacuum hose and detatch the vacuum hose from its rear cylinder take off point - tried doing this before without success - not easy as the instructions say warm the bike up first.

Thanks for any advice,

Cheers,

Ian.

[Ian E]

Logan7,

I am after some more advice if you don't mind. I got the guages through today. They came with two t-pieces but it says these are for damping of the guage. Did you use one of these t-pieces to put in line with hose - if so it looks quite restrictive when fully open, does this matter? How did you block the t-piece when the job was complete - just by part screwing the tap in?

I've looked at Haynes manual procedure and the instructions seem different. That says you need to clamp the fuel tap vacuum hose and detatch the vacuum hose from its rear cylinder take off point - tried doing this before without success - not easy as the instructions say warm the bike up first.

Thanks for any advice,

Cheers,

Ian.

[Max]

I don't know what gauges you have but some have a little in line piece with a screw on top, this is to allow you to twiddle these untill a stable reading is shown on the gauge, making sure you dont shut it off completely of course. I used some like that in the past and you do have to close them quite small.

The clamp bit in the haynes manual should be done with the engine running and clamping the hose with a vacuum in it will keep the petrol tap on when you didconnect the other end from the inlet to attach the gauges. this should allow you to run the bike.

If you have a short piece of spare hose you could remove the hose from the rear carb and put a T piece on the end this would then allow you to reconect the hose to the bike with the spare pipe leaving the other take off to go to the gauge. As long as it is all a tight fit then the fuel tap and gauge should be OK.

the other gauge then fits into the allen headed bolts hole on the front carb

I hope this helps and doesnt confuse you even more as I know what I want to write but can't think of the right way of putting it.

[Pete.L]

Sounds good to me Max.
I couldn't be bothered with a T-piece on mine so I just take off the vacuum hose (tank end) and stick it straight onto the gauge, use one of the hoses supplied with the gauge to connect to the front cyclinder take off point and with the spare hose supplied I attach that to the petcock. Gentally suck on it to obtain a small vacuum and then fold it in half and clamp it with a close peg so the fuel keeps flowing.
Bit of a bodge it I Know but it still does the job

Pete.l

[Max]

I have the t piece in already as it runs my scottoiler and I leave the other tube conected and plugged.