VTR1000F3 missing at low revs - any ideas?
Many thanks for all the replies.
I finally got around to balancing 'em today. They weren't far out anyway.
I think the bikes a bit better, but it still doesn't seem quite right. The missing is still there and I can hear the bike back firing when riding. Its not too bad further up the rev range, but a bit lumpy below 4000 revs and an occassional judder every now and again as though the bikes about to cut out. The bike also seems far noisier than the two previous Storms I've had - especially at tick over (1200 ish revs).
The bike is an F3 model registered December 2003 which I've had from new. It still under warranty so I might try and get it booked in - the 2 local Honda dealers I've tried are fully booked until mid June. Hopefully it will be ok in its current state for the TT!
I know its not a characteristic of the bike, this is the third Storm I've had (all of which I've owned from new) and the previous two were fine.
Any more ideas on what could cause this?,
Cheers,
Ian.
- Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7305
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
I,ve had a sticking carb slide cause a very simular problem. When the bike was new every now and again when slowing down it would start to miss fire and then it wouldn't pull again. Stop the bike and leave it for ten mins or so and it would go again.
Had me foxed for a while, as it was so intermittant, then after it did it about 3 times in ten miles I pulled the plugs out on the roadside and found the front one was black as old pots and covered in sh!t/soot.
when I got home I took some vey fine emery cloth to the carb slide edges and then gave them a polish and a clean. Never had the problem since
Pete.l
Had me foxed for a while, as it was so intermittant, then after it did it about 3 times in ten miles I pulled the plugs out on the roadside and found the front one was black as old pots and covered in sh!t/soot.
when I got home I took some vey fine emery cloth to the carb slide edges and then gave them a polish and a clean. Never had the problem since

Pete.l
Pete,
Thanks for the reply.
I had the problem with the bike not pulling (and running very badly) twice. Like you say, after leaving it for ten minutes and then restarting the problem had gone away.
Would carb slide problems cause the day to day running issues I am experiencing now?
How big a job is it to polish and clean the carb slide edges? (might leave this to a dealer - only used to doing small jobs on the bike - brakes, oil changes etc.!)
Cheers,
Ian.
Thanks for the reply.
I had the problem with the bike not pulling (and running very badly) twice. Like you say, after leaving it for ten minutes and then restarting the problem had gone away.
Would carb slide problems cause the day to day running issues I am experiencing now?
How big a job is it to polish and clean the carb slide edges? (might leave this to a dealer - only used to doing small jobs on the bike - brakes, oil changes etc.!)
Cheers,
Ian.
- Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7305
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
Hi Ian
sorry so slow getting back to you(working away ytday
)
It could be one of the causes along with muck in the slow Idle jets or choke plunger sticking. All fairly common problems.
It's not a difficut job to do but you will have to remove your air box to get at the carbs and then remove the carbs to gain easy access, so the carb tops can be removed. It's more fiddley putting them back together as you have a large spring to contend with whilst aligning the slides and a very delicate vacuum diaphram.
If your not too confident with your spannering it might be worth while just mentioning it as a possibility to a mechanic.
Let us know how you get on and if it turns out to be something different post it on here so we can add it to our mental lists
Pete.l
sorry so slow getting back to you(working away ytday

It could be one of the causes along with muck in the slow Idle jets or choke plunger sticking. All fairly common problems.
It's not a difficut job to do but you will have to remove your air box to get at the carbs and then remove the carbs to gain easy access, so the carb tops can be removed. It's more fiddley putting them back together as you have a large spring to contend with whilst aligning the slides and a very delicate vacuum diaphram.
If your not too confident with your spannering it might be worth while just mentioning it as a possibility to a mechanic.
Let us know how you get on and if it turns out to be something different post it on here so we can add it to our mental lists

Pete.l
we have a lot of storms over here in Oz with the same problems.
The stock exhaust stifles them. You need to remove baffles, or change exhaust. Then have them rejetted as they will run lean. To finish the job, fit a K&N filter and you'll never look back. (increases fuel economy too)
The stock exhaust stifles them. You need to remove baffles, or change exhaust. Then have them rejetted as they will run lean. To finish the job, fit a K&N filter and you'll never look back. (increases fuel economy too)

Submariners go down for a living..!!
dark&stormy
(the bike stupid)
dark&stormy
(the bike stupid)
- Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7305
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
That be okay also.
The main thing to check is that all the joints/connections aren't leaking.
Just on a side Note:
I recently treated myself to a new set of the dial type vacuum gauges and couldn't get the bike to run properly after trying them out. It turns out they were all out of calibration from new
To check the calibration is quite easy just get yourself some T conectors and join all the gauges together with the pipes supplied and then join them to one of the vacuum take off points on the bike. All the gauges should read the same....if they don't they need recalibrating.
Depending on the type you may be able to remove the plastic dial windows on the gauges and turn the calibration screw until they do. If you can't they'll need to be done or they're useless.
Pete.l

The main thing to check is that all the joints/connections aren't leaking.
Just on a side Note:
I recently treated myself to a new set of the dial type vacuum gauges and couldn't get the bike to run properly after trying them out. It turns out they were all out of calibration from new

To check the calibration is quite easy just get yourself some T conectors and join all the gauges together with the pipes supplied and then join them to one of the vacuum take off points on the bike. All the gauges should read the same....if they don't they need recalibrating.
Depending on the type you may be able to remove the plastic dial windows on the gauges and turn the calibration screw until they do. If you can't they'll need to be done or they're useless.
Pete.l