CCT's changed to manuals, now the occasional backfire

[weasel]

Hi there everyone,

Me and my old man changed the automatic CCT's for Krieger manuals following the instructions to the letter. I'm pretty sure everything went well. The bike starts and I did 9 miles on it last night.

I have a problem with my battery in that I have to have an Oximiser connected or it doesn't hold it's charge well at all. Twice since changing the CCT's I've tried to start the bike (which has struggled because of the battery) and I've had the bike backfire on me, but not start.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Cheers,

Gav

[Wicky]

Winter taken its toll on your battery? Have you tested its charge? What kind of R/R do you have fitted?

[VTRDark]

I think as long as you have got the timing right the backfire is is unrelated to the CCT's and is just a coincidence. As you mention having to use the optimiser it does suggest it's more of a battery, R/R issue. You may also want to check you have no leaks in the exhaust system either as this will cause a bit of backfiring/popping on the overrun.

(:-})

[benny hedges]

does it pull well over 6-7k rpm?

[weasel]

Yes, it pulls fine all through the revs.

[tony.mon]

Just check all of the connections on the starter motor, relay under the seat plastics, lh side, and battery.

[weasel]

Thanks. I'll have a check

Something else I 'think' I've noticed is this.... A ticking sound coming from the cam area. Now, it's not very loud, and I'm also wondering if it's actually there at all! Let me explain; I'm paranoid! We swapped the CCT's yesterday and I may be listening out for something that isn't actually there, mind playing tricks and all....

If I've over tightened or under-tightened the CCT's, what would I expect to hear? Also, I think there's definitely a strange noise when the engine starts (this one isn't paranoia). It's like a 'metallic' sound and last for the split second it takes for the engine to kick in.

My Dad wants me to just check the tension in the CCT's again. I will, but I'd rather ask the advice of you kind people first, in case I make matters worse.

Cheers,

Gav

[VTRDark]

Manuals will tick a little with a cold engine but should quieten down as things warm up.

If I've over tightened or under-tightened the CCT's, what would I expect to hear?

If overtightened the engine will struggle to turn over and you may get a squeeching noise when trying to start the bike. If under tightened you will hear it rattling away. Not just a light tapping.

How did you go about setting the tension on them, which method did you use? If you feel you need to double check then it wont do any harm. Especially if it's playing on you mind.

Where about's are you based, it might be good if you could have another storm owner take a listen.

Having manuals do make things sound slightly different, more so at startup and it is easy to start imagining things that are not there. There's nothing wrong with that and it's good to listen to the engine. But just be aware of that.

(:-})

[weasel]

Thanks Cybercarl

We followed the Kreiger instructions to the letter. After aligning the cams, we used the homemade key to lock the old tensioner in place, then removed it. As a guide, we set the new manual tensioner to the same length as the old one, then fitted it. Then, I turned the engine over by hand whilst my Dad tightened the CCT to remove any play. Then we slackened it off 1/8th of a turn. Then we aligned the cam up for the front tensioner and went through the same process.

The other sound I get that I described as 'metallic', could also be described as a 'metal sounding screech', although definitely noticeable, it's very quick and lasts only as long as the bike takes to kick in.

From your description Cybercarl, it sounds like I may have overtightened. It's certainly not rattling away. Maybe then, the ticking that I can hear is normal.

Can you advise me on how to adjust the CCT's? Do I adjust them whilst the engine is running? Do I adjust them whilst someone turns the engine over by hand, or do I simply adjust them whilst the engine is off?

I'll check them out and let you know how I go on.

Thanks,

Gavin

[MacV2]

Manuals will tick a little with a cold engine but should quieten down as things warm up.

If I've over tightened or under-tightened the CCT's, what would I expect to hear?

If overtightened the engine will struggle to turn over and you may get a squelching noise when trying to start the bike. If under tightened you will hear it rattling away. Not just a light tapping.

How did you go about setting the tension on them, which method did you use? If you feel you need to double check then it wont do any harm. Especially if it's playing on you mind.

Where about's are you based, it might be good if you could have another storm owner take a listen.

Having manuals do make things sound slightly different, more so at startup and it is easy to start imagining things that are not there. There's nothing wrong with that and it's good to listen to the engine. But just be aware of that.

(:-})

Surly that should be ''screeching noise'' or ''Squealing noise '' Carl. Sqelching noise may be heard from the pant area though.

Other than that good advice as normal carry on the good work.

[VTRDark]

Yes your correct, like a slipping fan belt of broken water pump with the belt on.

(:-})

[AMCQ46]

Squeal is bad, it is the sound of no oil. You need to recheck the tension and go a bit slacker.

Squelching is also bad, but only for Carl

[VTRDark]

I wouldn't adjust them while turning the engine over by hand as it wont be spinning fast enough. That's probably how they are overtightend. You can do them with the engine running but you have to keep a grip of the thread and not let it run away with you, slowly back off until you hear a slight rattle and tighten back in a 1/4 turn. But if they are overtightened I wouldn't want to start the engine and put unnecessary stress on the engine.

You could set the timing to tdc on the compression stroke for the rear, remove the cam cover and chain guide. Tighten the cct all the way in then back off counting the turns until the chain has 7-8mm up and down slack from the centre between the two cam sprockets. As you have counted the turns you can now apply this to the front cct once you have set that cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke. If you feel uncomfortable with this method and want them spot on accurate then forget the counting turns and remove the front cam cover as well so you can then measure the chain directly. Counting the turns will get you close but it does not account for any differences in wear and tear (stretch) on the chain between the two. Also by removing the cam cover you can verify you have the timing (cams) in the right place.

To set the timing follow the instructions on here.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

You will also want to put some loctite or gasket seal around the thread where it meets the surface as it screws in. This will prevent any slight oil leaks that may creep along the thread and act as a brake if they happen to work a bit loose from vibration.



(:-})

[weasel]

Thanks Carl. I'll start the bike up and slowly slacken them off and see if it helps

Gav

[woaty]

Hi there everyone,

Me and my old man changed the automatic CCT's for Krieger manuals following the instructions to the letter. I'm pretty sure everything went well. The bike starts and I did 9 miles on it last night.

I have a problem with my battery in that I have to have an Oximiser connected or it doesn't hold it's charge well at all. Twice since changing the CCT's I've tried to start the bike (which has struggled because of the battery) and I've had the bike backfire on me, but not start.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Cheers,

Gav

hi gav / dont forget the ccts will expaned when they get hot so dont over tighten when cold