Manual CCT,s arrived today.

[bigtwinthing]

Just recieved my CCT,s from CRU (america) and they seem very well made and look very nice.(except there a metallic blue) Who can fit these for me? (cash only) (or some big pistons and cash). I am a bit dubious about some so called mechanics fitting them when they dont know what they are.
Anybody want the job? (southampton area) Regards Paul.

[agentpineapple]

have you got a link to where you bought them buddy??????

[Wicky]

Never seen blue uns before

http://www.cyclesrus.net/vtr-1000-tensioner.html

[leevtr]

If you have no luck and feel like a run up to Essex..........

[bigtwinthing]

Never seen blue uns before

http://www.cyclesrus.net/vtr-1000-tensioner.html

Yep there the ones, just want them fitted before i get the rev counter over 9000 !

[bigtwinthing]

If you have no luck and feel like a run up to Essex..........

Cheers Matey, 1 more ski trip to go then i will be asking for directions. Regards Paul.

[tony.mon]

Never seen blue uns before

http://www.cyclesrus.net/vtr-1000-tensioner.html

Yep there the ones, just want them fitted before i get the rev counter over 9000 !

Revs doesn't matter, they mostly go as you roll the throttle on around 2-3000.

[bigtwinthing]

Never seen blue uns before

http://www.cyclesrus.net/vtr-1000-tensioner.html

Yep there the ones, just want them fitted before i get the rev counter over 9000 !

Revs doesn't matter, they mostly go as you roll the throttle on around 2-3000.

Bloody hell will i be driving to the Garage on tickover to get them fitted?

[bigtwinthing]

once i have the new Manual CCT,s fitted < when do you adjust them< and whats the correct tension?

[VTRDark]

You set the tension once you have set the timing to TDC on the compression stroke. So after you have removed the old one. If fitting manuals there is no need to lock off the original ones just alternate between the two mounting bolts and undo a bit at a time, before completely undoing them give the end of the cct a tap with a ratchet handle or something to break the seal where it's stuck to the paper gasket, then undo the rest of the thread alternating between the two so it comes out straight.

Your then ready to install the manuals. Loosen of the tread on the manuals all the way. Use a new gasket or some gasket seal and install and tighten the mounting bolts back up. Before setting the tension on the manual tensioner smear a little loctite of gasket seal on the thread where it meets the internal surface of the CCT, so just outside, so when you start to tighten it goes inside that area.

The tension is measured on the chain between the two cam sprockets so you will also need to remove the guide. It's held in by IIRC three 10mm bolts. It's a good idea to stuff some rag down the sides of the sprockets in case you drop a bolt.



The tension should be about 7- 8mm, vertical movement up and down a bit like tightening you drive chain.

Once the rear is done you can then move on to set the timing up to do the front.

(:-})

[edit] before you start any work make sure that your ally generator (timing) caps come off. They have a nasty habit of seizing themselves in place. If this is the case they will need butchering to remove which will take some time. Especially the big centre one [/edit]

[bigtwinthing]

You set the tension once you have set the timing to TDC on the compression stroke. So after you have removed the old one. If fitting manuals there is no need to lock off the original ones just alternate between the two mounting bolts and undo a bit at a time, before completely undoing them give the end of the cct a tap with a ratchet handle or something to break the seal where it's stuck to the paper gasket, then undo the rest of the thread alternating between the two so it comes out straight.

Your then ready to install the manuals. Loosen of the tread on the manuals all the way. Use a new gasket or some gasket seal and install and tighten the mounting bolts back up. Before setting the tension on the manual tensioner smear a little loctite of gasket seal on the thread where it meets the internal surface of the CCT, so just outside, so when you start to tighten it goes inside that area.

The tension is measured on the chain between the two cam sprockets so you will also need to remove the guide. It's held in by IIRC three 10mm bolts. It's a good idea to stuff some rag down the sides of the sprockets in case you drop a bolt.



The tension should be about 7- 8mm, vertical movement up and down a bit like tightening you drive chain.

Once the rear is done you can then move on to set the timing up to do the front.

(:-})

[edit] before you start any work make sure that your ally generator (timing) caps come off. They have a nasty habit of seizing themselves in place. If this is the case they will need butchering to remove which will take some time. Especially the big centre one [/edit]

Cheers your a gent, sorted the Generator Caps already ta, they wernt to bad but i made a piece up to fit exactly and it worked a treat. Regards Paul.

[VTRDark]

I take it you planning on having a go at them yourself over the weekend or something? If there's anything else you need to clarify before you start then give us a shout.

On the rear cylinder if on the compression stroke the cam lobes will be pointing upwards and inwards and the RE )rear exhaust) and RI (rear inlet) marks on the cam sprockets should be horizontal with the top of the head. They may be a tad out, maybe 1/8- 1/4 tooth due to wear and tear on the chain which is nothing to be too concerned about.





How was you intending on setting the tension on the front? I personally would recommend spending the extra time to remove the front cam cover (20mns extra time) to verify the cam lobes, which will be upwards and outwards for the front if on the compression stroke. The marks on the sprockets will be the same accept they are FI and FE. Removing the cover gives you the chance to verify the timing is correct and get the tension on the chain spot on.

(:-})

[sirch345]

Hi Paul,
If you do intend to do the job yourself, if you've not already have a read of this, it explains how-to set up the valve timing correctly before you start. This is most important
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

Chris.

[bigtwinthing]

Guys thanks for all your help, i will probably wait until March as iam off skiing again then have a week away with the wife, Maybe the easter weekend and should then be all ready to go. I will keep posted and ley everyone know how i got on (slightly dreading pressing the starter bottom though)

[leevtr]

Guys thanks for all your help, i will probably wait until March as iam off skiing again then have a week away with the wife, Maybe the easter weekend and should then be all ready to go. I will keep posted and ley everyone know how i got on (slightly dreading pressing the starter bottom though)

My first Storm did about 35000 miles ( I got it with 12000 ) before I changed the cct's. Just ride it mate.