timing

[scottyhatchi]

Well I wombles up took cam wheels out and decided to turn crank to line rear up again to check summin then turning bak to ft mark crank has jammed can't move it now wombles sake

[VTRDark]

O' what a mess

took cam wheels out

Do you mean you loosened of the cams or did you remove the cam sprockets off the end of the cams. WTF are you doing.

check summin then turning bak to ft mark

What exactly was you checking, and you shouldn't really be turning it back. If you have it lined to FT and the cam lobes are pointing upwards and outwards then your already on the compression stroke. It's just a case of verifying the markings )FI and FE) on the cam sprockets.

So I take it your working on the front cylinder. TBH I think you have bent some valves. I hope you haven't lost the cam chain inside the wall of the engine if you have removed the cam sprockets or cams. I think you going to have to remove the head or at least the cams for now. If you can't turn the crank then it's hitting the valves or something. You might be better off buying a second replacement head with the cams and valves already in place and doing a straight swap. If it was me I would now loosen off or remove both cams so I could turn the crank and line things back up. As I've said, there is a good chance you have damaged the valves so your more than likely going to have to remove the head.

You would have been better off taking your chances with the original CCT's or getting someone that knows what they are doing to fit them. I'm sorry for you that it's gone this way, but there's a lesson in this for you somewhere.

Can you post some pictures so we can get things clear here and understand what you have done. I would like to see the position of the crank as to what mark it on or near. You may have to shine a torch i to get a clear pic. Take another one of the top of the engine so I can see exactly what you have removed. And another of the ends of the cam sprockets if they are still in place.

(:-})

[scottyhatchi]

Its now back together and running went for a ride to see what like and I'm getting clicking noises from it now !!

[VTRDark]

How did you manage that then. Did you remove the cams so you could turn the crankshaft then? Fooking hell Scotty I think you got lucky there mate. How did you get on with the tension on the CCT's? This noise you can hear is it clicking, tapping or what.It might be best if you can do a video sound clip of it. Just record it with you phone or something. Is it a loud noise or just a gentle tapping. Don't forgot the manual tensioners do tap a little until they expand a bit once the bike has fully warmed up. I bet you feel relieved now.

(:-})

[scottyhatchi]

I don't feel even slightly relieved mate the tapping is loud enuff to be heard clear over my loud scorpion cans and with my helmet over my head so its no slight noise lol

[VTRDark]

I think you need to check your vale clearances to determine whether you have any bent valves or not. If you removed the cams you should have checked these anyway. If you did remove the cams did you torque them back down properly.

How did you get the timing on the front cylinder in the end. Did you verify the timing was correct by the cam positions and the FI and FE marks on the cam sprockets.

(:-})

[scottyhatchi]

Yea same as I keep doing rt matched to r1 and re and ft matched to ft and f1

[VTRDark]

Sorry mate your getting me at now jumbling up letters and numbers

Working on the front cylinder, I'm still guessing here as you have not confirmed it.
On the cam sprockets you have FI and FE (Front Inlet and Front Exhaust) as in my pictures in the above post.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 35#p248270

Where these lined up horizontally with the top of the cylinder head and cams pointing upwards and outwards, at the same time that the crank is on FT. It's only three things that have to be checked.

It would be easier if you just posted some pics so we can see.

(:-})

[scottyhatchi]

Yes that is what I have done

[leevtr]

I need my bike serviced....Don't do private work by any chance do you ??

[Kev L]

[VTRDark]

Yes that is what I have done

And does everything line up?

What about the rear cylinder did you check that before moving onto the front? It's the exact same three things to check except the crank is on RT and the cams will be the opposite and pointing upwards and inwards, and the cam sprockets will have RI and RE instead of FI and FE.

(:-})

[darkember]

Scotty do me a favour. For piece of mind cut out & burn the section on cam adjustment from the haynes manual. Then download & print the one on this knowledge base & stick that back into your book.

[VTRDark]

It's a bit late for that Maybe he can do a no win no fee on Mr Haynes. It just surprises me that Scotty jumped straight in with the Haynes and did not check on here first. I've lost track of how many times in various posts myself and others have told people not to use it and follow the instructions on here. I would just burn the whole Haynes, it's not needed and the PDF manual and advice on here has everything that one wants.

(:-})

[Stratman]

It's a bit late for that Maybe he can do a no win no fee on Mr Haynes. It just surprises me that Scotty jumped straight in with the Haynes and did not check on here first. I've lost track of how many times in various posts myself and others have told people not to use it and follow the instructions on here. I would just burn the whole Haynes, it's not needed and the PDF manual and advice on here has everything that one wants.

(:-})

Perhaps a tad harsh? I changed mine for manuals using Haynes - it isn't completely clear but ut isn't actually wrong either - I did them in about 2006, before Chris had published his excellent (and better) step by step guide. Haynes has been really useful in so many other ways since I bought it and is handy to have everthing together if you just need to check a torque setting etc.