What set up are you running, and how is it for you?

[seb421]

As we have the dyno day in June I'm just curious as to what set ups people are currently running and how its running for them
if you have a dyno sheet attach with your set up.

Copy the below and fill in with your data

My current settings

AIRBOX
MAIN - Standard
SNORKEL - Standard
LID - Flap removed
VELOCITY STACKS - Two Long Fitted
FILTER - Pipercross Race Filter

EXHAUST
PIPES - Yoshimura
CANS - Yoshimura
STYLE - Upswept

FRONT CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #190 Dyno Jet
EMULSION TUBE - Standard front
NEEDLES - Dyno Jet on 5th clip
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - #50
A/F SCREW - 2.25

REAR CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #190 Dyno Jet
EMULSION TUBE - Standard rear
NEEDLES - Dyno Jet on 5th clip
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - #50
A/F SCREW - 2.50

OTHER VARIABLES
TPS - 500 ohms
IGNITION ADVANCER - Standard
COILS - Stick Coil Conversion
GEARING - Standard
CLUTCH - EBC Kevlar Series Street Racing Clutch & Springs
FLYWHEEL - Standard
PISTONS - Standard
CAMS - Standard
OIL COOLER - Standard
ENGINE OIL - Castrol Power 1 10w/30 Semi Synthetic
OTHER -

DYNO SHEET -

Bike rides very nice but feels ever so sightly lean around 5k ish
Power up top feels fantastic
Has a slight soggy feel just off idle if opened slow, tied with the #48's in but it caused big problems setting off it would hesitate and cut out for a millisecond, suspect the AF needs fine tuning when i can be arsed

Did have Lloydie Modified Air box fitted but damaged it on the weld so have to repair and get that back in and adjusted for it

[VTRDark]

I'm constantly playing with mine. changing things and experimenting. I have had my carbs off 16 times since 06/06/2012 according to my notes.

My current settings

AIRBOX
MAIN - Berrnie Morgan Mod
VELOCITY STACKS - Two Standard Long Fitted
FILTER - BMC Street Filter

EXHAUST
PIPES - Standard but modified left outlet with smaller diameter 90degree mandrel
CANS - SP1 Arata Titanim
EXHAUST STYLE - Custom Upswept

FRONT CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #178 KeiHin/FP
Emulsion Tube the Same as Rear
NEEDLES - Factory Pro TI on 2nd clip from the bottom (pointy end) with standard 10though shim
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - #45
A/F SCREW - Done by ear & Blip test

REAR CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #180 KeiHin/FP
NEEDLES - Factory Pro TI on 2nd clip from the bottom (pointy end) with standard 10though removed and 20thou shim added, so 10 though more than the front
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - #45
A/F SCREW - Done by ear & Blip test

OTHER VARIABLES
TPS - 500 ohms
IGNITION ADVANCER - Standard
COILS - Stick Coil Conversion
GEARING - Standard
CLUTCH - N/A
FLYWHEEL - Standard
PISTONS - Standard
CAMS - Standard
OIL COOLER - Standard
ENGINE OIL - N/A

DYNO SHEET - Seat of Pants

Bike rides spot on at full running temp but fuelling, who knows, it drinks the way I ride, but is probably a bit too rich low down as I can't use the choke when first starting. I previously had the needle 1 clip higher and there was a bit of carb cough/splutter at around 3500-4000rpm. I suspect I need larger mains then lean off the needles but CBA changing until I get a few dyno runs to see which is best for speed and pull from 7500rpm onwards, I will then worry about needles and then the pilot circuit. Tune it in the right order, no point worrying about the needles until the mains are done.

Still not decided whether to keep the BMC filter or stick a standard in. What I might do is set these carbs up for standard filter and block a slide hole in each slide and shim standard needles. My spare carbs I can drill out the Main air jets, stick the bmc filter and FP kit in and jet to suit. I would also put a flow commander in this too, but then I need another airbox. That would be ideal, two sets of carbs with different setup's that I can swap over as I please.

Then I would need a third set of carbs to play and experiment with for fun. Or use for testing other things in the future like airbox mods or something.

(:-})

[lloydie]

AIRBOX
MAIN - Gutted
SNORKEL - Standard
LID - Flap removed
VELOCITY STACKS - Two Long bulit stacks
FILTER - k&n Filter

EXHAUST
PIPES - Lloydie 2-1
CANS - Leo vince
STYLE - Upswept

FRONT CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #190 Dyno Jet
EMULSION TUBE - Standard front
NEEDLES - Dyno Jet on 3rd clip from bottom
SLIDES - 3rd hole drilled
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - #48
A/F SCREW - 1.50

REAR CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #190 Dyno Jet
EMULSION TUBE - Standard rear
NEEDLES - Dyno Jet on 3rd up
SLIDES - drilled 3rd hole
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - #48
A/F SCREW - 1.50 out

OTHER VARIABLES
TPS - 500 ohms
IGNITION ADVANCER +4'
COILS - Stick Coil Conversion
GEARING - 15-41
CLUTCH - EBC Heavy duty Clutch & Springs
FLYWHEEL - Lightened
PISTONS - Standard
CAMS - Standard
OIL COOLER - Sp1 4 row
ENGINE OIL - Halfords 10w/40 semi
OTHER -


still needs a little work in the midrange

[leevtr]

My current settings

AIRBOX
MAIN - Standard
SNORKEL - Standard
LID - Standard
VELOCITY STACKS - Standard
FILTER - Standard

EXHAUST
PIPES - Standard
CANS - Leo Vince
STYLE - Standard

FRONT CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #180 Dyno Jet
EMULSION TUBE - Standard front
NEEDLES - Dyno Jet on 4th clip
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - Standard
A/F SCREW - 2.00

REAR CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #180 Dyno Jet
EMULSION TUBE - Standard rear
NEEDLES - Dyno Jet on 4th clip
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - Standard
A/F SCREW - 2.00

OTHER VARIABLES
TPS - Standard
IGNITION ADVANCER - Standard
COILS - Standard
GEARING - Standard
CLUTCH - Standard
FLYWHEEL - Standard
PISTONS - Standard
CAMS - Standard
OIL COOLER - Standard
ENGINE OIL -
OTHER -

DYNO SHEET -



How does it feel; Feels like the power curve shows, smooth, progressive, no dips or surges in power that I can feel, getting progressively stronger. I dont tend to spend much time in the upper rev range, can't see the point on a twin.

[BigVeeGrin]

Standard all the way as far as I know. Need to get in there and find out as it could have been modded by previous owners. Always taken the view in the past that a) don't understand all this b) margins for improvement are not likely to be that noticeable for my ability given that road surface, temperature, my concentration, how tired I am and so on make more of a difference. How wrong I could be especially post dyno-day

[Griff1977]

My current settings

AIRBOX
MAIN - Standard
SNORKEL - Standard
LID - Standard
VELOCITY STACKS - Standard
FILTER - Standard

EXHAUST
PIPES - Standard
CANS - Pipe Werx
STYLE - Low- standard

FRONT CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #172 FP
EMULSION TUBE - Standard front
NEEDLES - FP top clip (blunt end-lean)
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - #48
A/F SCREW - 2

REAR CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - No
MAIN - #175 stock
EMULSION TUBE - Standard rear
NEEDLES - FP top clip (blunt end-lean)
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard
PILOT - #48
A/F SCREW - 2

OTHER VARIABLES
TPS - 500 ohms
IGNITION ADVANCER - FP +4
COILS - Stick Coil Conversion
GEARING - -1 front, +1 rear
CLUTCH - Standard
FLYWHEEL - Standard
PISTONS - Standard
CAMS - Standard
OIL COOLER - Standard
ENGINE OIL - Semi Synthetic
OTHER - Rider- non standard!

DYNO SHEET -


Set up by Dyno guy in Grimsby. Used FP 1.7 kit but no drilling. Once above 3500rpm bike is real smooth. It has a hesitation when pulling away & at any other regime when rpm is about 3000. Generally happy but needs lower end sorting out and I have a medium term desire to drill MAJ and make use of BMC street filter.
Regards, Griff.

[agentpineapple]

carl, why don't you take the bmc and standard filter with you and have two power runs, one of each, also would the style of spark plug make any difference, iirc your using those new brisk plugs?

[tony.mon]

My current settings (today, anyway, they'll be different tomorrow, as I can't leave well enough alone!)

AIRBOX
MAIN - Gutted, enlarged by removing corner sections, also a 10mm spacer section installed above box but below filter made form a section of an old lid, plus an outer cutout from an old filter. Longer airbox screws to hold it together, spacers (20mm) under front tank mount.
SNORKEL - ENlarged, foam removed and a bridge made so that it has a larger cross-sectional area throughout. Centre web removed.
LID - Flap removed, posts removed.
VELOCITY STACKS - currently one short one long std, but still playing with hybrid SP1 rolled tops grafted onto std bases.
FILTER - K+N.
BREATHERS - routed to and external catch tank and breather. Bit of a bodge, but you can't see it (except for the little cone pleated filter, poking out from under the tank LH side). Not yet happy with this, as you get a small amount of condensation collecting in the tubes between the engine cam covers and the catch tank- not ideal. Because I used clear tubing you can see this, and it doesn't take long to pull off and clean out. I'd advise checking yours if you've done this haven't used clear tubing.

EXHAUST
PIPES - Std
CANS - MIG High level, not much in the way of baffling material.
STYLE - High level

FRONT CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - Not yet, although drills arrived yesterday- front 1.1mm dia, rear 1.4mm dia.
MAIN - #190 Keihin
EMULSION TUBE - #48
NEEDLES - Factory Pro on 2nd clip from top
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Std, probably tired by now
PILOT - #50 (but working from memory, so not sure, and don't feel like taking it apart to look atm)
A/F SCREW - 2.00 out

REAR CARB
MAIN AIR JET DRILLED - Not yet
MAIN - #195 Keihin
EMULSION TUBE - #48
NEEDLES - Factory Pro, 2nd from top
SLIDES - Standard not drilled or blocked
SPRINGS - Standard, knackered
PILOT - #50 (AFAIR)
A/F SCREW - 2.00 out

OTHER VARIABLES
TPS - 500 ohms
IGNITION ADVANCER -4 degrees advanced, Factory Pro
COILS - Stick Coil Conversion
GEARING - 15T front (STd is 16)
CLUTCH - EBC Kevlar Series Street Racing Clutch & Springs
FLYWHEEL - Standard
PISTONS - JE 11.6:1 high compression pistons, Honda rings. Std bore, no oversize.
CAMS - Standard cams reground by Newman Cams, Kent, to give just over 1mm extra lift, @10 degrees more dwell. Currently on std lobe centre settings and overlap.
HEADS - gasflowed by me, more cleaned up and polished than reshaped, on this occasion, but I have some plans for substantial head work for the front cyl, and oversize inlet valves are also on the cards
OIL COOLER - 4 - row SP1 conversion
ENGINE OIL - Castrol Power 1 10w/30 Semi Synthetic
OTHER - Currently has the quietening gear in, but this will come out again next time the clutch cover's off.
Currently running stock clutch m/c, but I have a semi-hydraulic setup (hydraulic top end, tiny MC, then a small cylinder near the lower end converts to a cable-type rod and nipple, which is mated to a Varadero case) ready to install and test as soon as the drags trip warms up, to see if it cures clutch grab.
Braced rear SA, Blade brace welded and powder coated.
WP springs front, 140mm air gap, 7.5. weight oil.
Hagon remote adjustable shock rear, better than std but not perfect, cheap though.
Braking Wave discs all round, SP1 MC, braided hoses.
Carbon undertray
100/85 headlight bulb, separate relays for each
12v waterproof cig lighter socket
Optimate 4 charger socket conversion
Gear indicator c/w voltage display
Ultrabright LED sidelight
Clear rear light, built-in indicators, secondary indicators also fitted.
Mirror indicators, secondary indicators also fitted
Titax long series levers fitted.
DB screen, MRA I think
Homemade QA throttle, not as quick action as I'd like so that's up for a rebuild as soon as there's a sunny day.
14AH Motobatt 4 terminal battery fitted TAM, but there will be a lightweight one in for the summer.
I'm sure there's more....

DYNO SHEET -

115bhp or thereabouts at present with boosted torque, quick enough for the road but I need more on the drag strip. Watch this space.
Jetting and carbs set up by Tony at HM Racing, Edenbridge, he knows his stuff, sho' nuff.
Not perfect fuelling around 3500, but good enough, and clean top end/mid range.
Fixing the low end gives problems elsewhere, so I'll live with it for now.

PLANS - Major reporting on a front head, to see if I'm right that the fact that only one of the exhaust valves lines up with the exhaust entry is horribly inefficient. But this means cutting into the water jacket, also removing one of the exhaust mounting studs, and so I'm thinking about an oval port and exhaust header section. Not easy.
Funnily enough the rear head's fine, so that just needs opening up a little.
Forks are tired, I need new taper roller head bearings, internal fork bushes, and the front brakes need their spring TLC.
I fancy building my own bigger-bore exhaust system, Yeti has kindly loaned me his Yosh system to get some ideas from, it's Ti but I'll probably stick with stainless for now until I'm happy with it, then see if I can afford a Ti copy of the finished article.

I still have one idea to play with, which is to separate the two intakes in the airbox (two separate airboxes?). There's no breathing advantage, but you could then run a Big Bang configuration engine, with the cam timing 180 degrees out,m and it would still rev out, which it won't do with a single airbox.
No idea what it will do on the dyno, or how it will ride, but is seems like fun to play with.....

As soon as all that's finished I'll clean it.

Once that lot's done I'll sell it and start again on an SP2.