PAIR System and fuel tap.

[duzzy]

Hi all,

Just started work on my bike.

UK models don't have a PAIR system. Correct?

Bit confused about whether my tap is knackered or not. Pulled the left hand pipe off, fuel ran out. Hmm...turned the tap off mechanically, no leaks. So does this mean the diaphragm is split and despite lack of vacuum is letting fuel through?

D

[/quote]

[yellafella]

PAIR systems are for emission control and unless its an import it shouldnt have it. Try this link for more info:
http://ozfirestorm.proboards34.com/inde ... 903&page=1

Try this link for the fuel tap biz :
http://www.abercon.co.uk/vtr1000/phpBB2 ... l+tap+pipe

[smudger]

Yep it is knackered! Got a similar problem with mine although not quite so obvious - anyone know of where you can get a replacement diaphragm as it is generaly thought that you have to replace the tap as you cannot get the diaphragm on its own. New tap circa £120 eek.......

[BigD]

May be able to help you there. I have a spare used petcock that I bought but haven't needed to use it as mine appears ok now. I was quoted £160 for a new one

[duzzy]

Thanks for the info. I shall stop looking for all these pipes the manual tells me to remove then!

Shame about the tap. Thanks for the offer but I am loathe to replace something that will just fail again at some point. (Hence going manual CCT rather than another set of pooh Honda ones). Maybe go the fuel pump route.

While I am here does anyone have any suggestions for what may be at fault here? (moved from Bike Chat post)

The only other thing that does concern me a tad is that my clutch has a tendency to snatch (oi! ). If I pull away smoothly no problems but occasionally if I am revving it for a fast(ish!) launch, then as I ease out the lever I get nothing, nothing, a horrible whine, screech from the clutch and a vicious take up. Doesn't happen everytime though. Ideas? Even better, fixes?

I guess the only other thing that I am thinking of doing is the front fork mod I read about somewhere, new springs and a regrinding and drilling another hole. Is this as good as fitting new valves?

Cheers all,

D

[duzzy]

Update:

APE CCT's in. (Got a pair of Honda ones going cheap now. Dunno how long they will last. One with white dot one with pink so I guess one has been changed already? Does Del want them to mod?)

Air/Oil all that old malarky is done.

Checked plugs and put back in. This time I thought they should be tightened!!!! The front one was finger tight (no really, ratchet not required) and on both they had not been tightened enough to crush the sealing washer

4mm spacer on shock.

Balance carbs and attack silencers tomorrow. (Just a ring of holes so hopefully it won't affect the mixture unduly?)

Buy a paddock stand (anyone tell me what they use?) and do the cush drive rubbers.

Pray for sunshine!

D

[duzzy]

Oh yeah, took the tap apart. Rubber ok. Put it back together. It works fine.....no idea why it was leaking!

D

[sirch345]

Update:
APE CCT's in.
D

How did you go about getting the correct tension for the camchains with the APE manual CCTs
Chris.

[duzzy]

Take the camshaft cover off. Remove the camchain cover plate so you can get access to the chain. With the current piston at TDC there is no load on the cams. Adjust until you get about 1/4 - 3/8 inch of play. Thats it.

Couple of things. Do not turn the engine over until you have refitted the camchain cover plate. These bolts also hold the camshafts in place. There is no point fussing about whether there are any tight spots in the chain. The cams are under load apart from at TDC so the only place you can set the adjustment is there.

I reckon my rear is spot on and the front could maybe have been a tad tighter but I am happier with that and a system that cannot fail over the constant uncertainty of the stock ones.

D

[Max]

Thats the way I set mine up about 4000 miles ago, I thought that they were just a little too loose. When I went to Rogers he suggested tightening them a little so I have turned them a flat on the bolt and the seem good now. Roger did say that you can tell if you over tighten them as they make an odd noise.
Funnily it was the front one I thought was more rattley but when the engine was warm they were almost silent. APE suggest that you set them as you have and run the engine when warm adjusting them just until the noise goes.
I think they are fine and probably require adjusting very seldom, some of the kawasaki ones they run for 40000 kms before adjusting. It also takes away that expensive noise that may happen at any time of the day or night with the std ones. The money isnt that important but it would probably be very inconvienient.;

[Stormin Ben]

May be able to help you there. I have a spare used petcock that I bought but haven't needed to use it as mine appears ok now. I was quoted £160 for a new one

BigD
You have PM

Ben

[duzzy]

Hi Max,

Yeah funny that, the front one seems to go quiet when the bike has warmed up. Actually it goes quieter within 2-3 mins.

That was the other way I read about setting them up (from the link on the APE site), do adjustment static, then fire up and adjust till rattle goes away, tighten just past this and you're done. Figured it would work great on an inline 4 with one chain. Could be kinda hassly (screwdrivers in ears etc) with two chains.

Adjusting the front one was the hardest, purely from an accessibility point of view. Maybe that's why it ain't quite as sweet as the rear. Anyway I figure a gnats too slack is better than overtight.

Totally agree, inconvenient, but to me more importantly, the lack of worry. Since I heard about the CCT prob everytime I was out it was in the back of my mind. Now it ain't gonna be!

D

[sirch345]

Many thanks Duzzy for your reply.
Chris.

Thats the way I set mine up about 4000 miles ago, I thought that they were just a little too loose. When I went to Rogers he suggested tightening them a little so I have turned them a flat on the bolt and the seem good now. Roger did say that you can tell if you over tighten them as they make an odd noise.
Funnily it was the front one I thought was more rattley but when the engine was warm they were almost silent. APE suggest that you set them as you have and run the engine when warm adjusting them just until the noise goes.
I think they are fine and probably require adjusting very seldom, some of the kawasaki ones they run for 40000 kms before adjusting. It also takes away that expensive noise that may happen at any time of the day or night with the std ones. The money isnt that important but it would probably be very inconvienient.;

The Roger that you're referring to Max, would that be the Roger Ditchfield of Revolution Racing
cheers Chris.

[Max]

Many thanks Duzzy for your reply.
Chris.

Thats the way I set mine up about 4000 miles ago, I thought that they were just a little too loose. When I went to Rogers he suggested tightening them a little so I have turned them a flat on the bolt and the seem good now. Roger did say that you can tell if you over tighten them as they make an odd noise.
Funnily it was the front one I thought was more rattley but when the engine was warm they were almost silent. APE suggest that you set them as you have and run the engine when warm adjusting them just until the noise goes.
I think they are fine and probably require adjusting very seldom, some of the kawasaki ones they run for 40000 kms before adjusting. It also takes away that expensive noise that may happen at any time of the day or night with the std ones. The money isnt that important but it would probably be very inconvienient.;

The Roger that you're referring to Max, would that be the Roger Ditchfield of Revolution Racing
cheers Chris.

Yes, sorry I should have said. He didnt seem to see the need for manual ones though. We were just talking about them a bit when he did my suspension a few weeks back.

[sirch345]

Yes, sorry I should have said. He didnt seem to see the need for manual ones though. We were just talking about them a bit when he did my suspension a few weeks back.

Hi Max,
Thanks for your reply mate, the reason I was curious was because I had a good chat with Roger about CCT's a few years back and I was wondering if his views on the APE CCT's had changed, but seeing as you quoted him saying "he didn't seem to see the need for manual ones though" I should think not. He did tell me though in the racing world it was unheard of one letting go, which I would have thought it to be the other way round, considering race bikes are pushed to the limit in every aspect!
cheers Chris.