Auto ccts

[Gazfirestormowner]

Should auto ccts be free to slide in and out or are they very stiff I've removed my rear and there no way it's going back in as it takes so much force to push in

[popkat]

If I remember right it's on a worm drive, you have to wind it back, small screw driver in the other end as you push the plunger. Have you read up on the instructions re removing the tensioner ?.

[lloydie]

Should auto ccts be free to slide in and out or are they very stiff I've removed my rear and there no way it's going back in as it takes so much force to push in

In simple no . You will need to wind it back in

[Gazfirestormowner]

I've ordered some manual ccts of Bazza save messing on with the autos

[Wicky]

Did you set the timing correctly before removing the auto CCTs. As if you haven't you risked the cam chain jumping the cam sprockets?

[Gazfirestormowner]

Yeah I've followed Carl's step by step guide I've had to remove the cams anyway cause the timing was out

[VTRDark]

Gaz I'm starting to get a bit concerned mate. Have you removed both tensioners. You can't do that. Not without putting one back in or replacing it with a manual CCT and setting the tension first. Then and only then can you turn the crank around to set the other cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke.

Which cams have you removed. I'm starting to think that you may have to remove all the cams, so all valves remain safely closed. And then you going to have to start from scratch with the crank set to RT, replace rear cylinder cams, turn the crank 1/14 turns and onto FT and replace the front cylinder cams. But you are going to have to be very careful of the cam chains so you don't drop them down inside. Hook them up out the way and have a helper feed them around as the crank is turned over.

(:-})

[8541Hawk]

Gaz I'm starting to get a bit concerned mate. Have you removed both tensioners. You can't do that. Not without putting one back in or replacing it with a manual CCT and setting the tension first. Then and only then can you turn the crank around to set the other cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke.

Which cams have you removed. I'm starting to think that you may have to remove all the cams, so all valves remain safely closed. And then you going to have to start from scratch with the crank set to RT, replace rear cylinder cams, turn the crank 1/14 turns and onto FT and replace the front cylinder cams. But you are going to have to be very careful of the cam chains so you don't drop them down inside. Hook them up out the way and have a helper feed them around as the crank is turned over.

(:-})

The cam chains aren't all that hard to fish out if one of them gets dropped......
Don't ask me how I know......

[VTRDark]

did you get a bite.

(:-})

[E.Marquez]

Though not hard to retrieve, more then one person has had the chain ball up at the crank sprocket when turning the crank and chains loose, damaging the case in the process.

If you make a small loop with coat hanger or other stiff wire around the chain, and attach the other end of wire to the frame.. or better with a short spring to the frame.. you can keep the chain up and tension against the crank sprocket...while turning the crank and no cams in.

[8541Hawk]

did you get a bite.

(:-})

Actually it is a big tunnel...... just don't turn the crank and it is rather easy to get them back unlike some bikes where they are gone if you drop them.