Dead Bike Recovered by AA

[VTRDark]

Batteries can just die from old age or for no logical reason at all. Or the battery can be taken out by the charging system. I thought you had already changed the battery.

(:-})

[mr.john.coates]

Batteries can just die from old age or for no logical reason at all. Or the battery can be taken out by the charging system. I thought you had already changed the battery.

(:-})

No, at 12.6v I thought it ok, batteries

Hopefully the battery wasn't killed by the charging system. I've checked the reg/rec over and it looks ok - 2Meg resistance +ve to earth, earth good, yellow alternator thingies just a bit of an ohm on a continuity check. Putting it all back together now. Shame I lost good riding time when not at work

[lloydie]

When you have it up and running check the output voltage of the r/r with the engine running and with lights on and off .
If its below 12.5v with the lights on it won't be charging enough .
And if its above I think 14.5v its over charging .
Someone more in the know can check I got that right !

[mr.john.coates]

When you have it up and running check the output voltage of the r/r with the engine running and with lights on and off .
If its below 12.5v with the lights on it won't be charging enough .
And if its above I think 14.5v its over charging .
Someone more in the know can check I got that right !

I've got it back enough to test it. At a fast idle the voltage across the battery is 14.4-ish and it varies by only a few hundredths and falls to 13.9 as the revs increase. However, the R/R, which is finned, gets very warm, in fact too hot to touch after about 10mins running in the stand. How hot should they get? I don't want to feck a second battery!

[VTRDark]

R/R\s will get very hot. Sounds to me that your are getting right on the borderline of overcharging but still within the boundaries of being allright. The heat is caused from the excess voltage from the generator being thrown (shunted) away. I would keep a close eye on things.

(:-})

[mr.john.coates]

R/R\s will get very hot. Sounds to me that your are getting right on the borderline of overcharging but still within the boundaries of being allright. The heat is caused from the excess voltage from the generator being thrown (shunted) away. I would keep a close eye on things.

(:-})

Carl, if it were overcharging, or close to it, what might be the cause and what is the remedy?

I'm off to London tomorrow with Mrs j to see the little 'uns, so it will be Sunday before I complete putting it back together. I don't like unreliable vehicles and I'm tempted to buy a spare R/R just in case?

[VTRDark]

The cause is the R/R not being able to cope with the output from the generator and some of the internal diodes inside the R/R failing along with the excess heat which is the excess voltage getting thrown away contributing to the failure of parts inside. Unfortunately it's down to bad design of this style R/R. The best way to prevent it is by fitting a MOSFET style R/R
http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/kn ... how-25117/

You can also help dissipate the excess heat a little better by having a very good earth and by giving it a better way of cooling off. But this as far as cooling goes, this is a lot of work as it involves moving it's mounting point or using some kind of fan. Better to go the MOSFET route. Another preventative measure would be to use some thermal paste between the R/R and the chassis.

(:-})

[darkember]

Could the stator be at the heart of the matter creating too much current to start with??

[VTRDark]

Overpower.....not unless it's been upgraded. It's down to the R/R to control what it requires from that as it converts from AC to DC anyway, no matter how much it puts out. Problems with the Stator is usually not producing enough power as the wire coils within it get burnt out, but this is not often.

(:-})

[mr.john.coates]

Carl, thanks for that.

I've read up on MOSFETs and such and it seems a safe option. Out of interest I've just taken mine off and checked the serial number - there isn't one! All it says is "Tour Max High Performance Equipment" - I googled them and they seem to provide aftermarket parts, but I can't tell what RR I've got which is a worry (new item on the list at position 69). I'm going MOSFET - does anyone know of the part I need to order?

[VTRDark]

Apart from the serial number, the usual but not always big give away on MOSFET's is that they have two plugs as the Regulator and Rectifier side of things are divided into two separate circuits rather than sharing the same. You will also find they are double the price, around the £60 mark used for an R1 one.

Or get a new complete kit including wiring.
http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm

The Tour Max ones I believe are of the old style.

(:-})

[darkember]

This site have the R1 units with the double plugs:

http://www.ripperdeal.co.uk/index.cgi

Copy & paste "yzf r1 rectifier regulator" into the search field

Where can one find the wiring procedure if you were to want to install one , the 2 socket variant that is? Looking at our knowledge base the one that is fitted is still the older shunt type with one socket.

Ok found it on the Superhawk forum:

http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/kn ... wap-14380/

[VTRDark]

The wiring can either be done the same except the plug is divided into two or better still wire direct from the battery. Plugs can be purchased separately, I think that style plugs are called AMP superseal waterproof Wiring connecting blocks.

(:-})

[lloydie]

Either fit a finned Honda part or a MOSFET r&r but I wouldn't touch a normal r1 reg ever again I had two fail in two years .

[mr.john.coates]

Can't afford MOSFET - didn't realise how expensive they were
Just ordered a new genuine Honda finned one.

Of course I need a new battery too, else Deauville not going anywhere. Not sure if I really need a new RR, but I don't want to buy a new battery and fry it due to RR being suspect.