what have you done to your "bike" today

Griff1977 · Post by **Griff1977** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 8:01 pm

Fitted new (W4) exhaust clamps & sealed join with silicon.

Tweaked down mixture. Not given it a test ride yet... Fingers crossed.

Griff.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 8:09 pm

put it away after i spanked it for an hour

8541Hawk · Post by **8541Hawk** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 9:11 pm

I have seen the pics of the catch can you guys have posted, just didn't want to add the extra hoses.

So far it is working well with no issues as I did get a chance to take her for a short ride last night.
I do have a new idle "tick"......

Though it is from the breather and it goes away as soon as the rev's build a little bit.

I will say the bike does pull harder with the catch tank out of the airbox. I'm not sure if it is from the added volume in the box or from removing the hot crank case gasses being pumped into the airbox......
or maybe a combination of the two..... Either way there is an improvement.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 9:21 pm

Agreed the gutted box works well .
I will be starting the mk3 next week .
I want to in large it a lot this time and use a k&n and open top .
I just need to know what air jets to block up and what size mains to drop down to then I should be good to go .
I will be setting the mk3 on a spare set of carbs as my currant set up is nice .

8541Hawk · Post by **8541Hawk** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 9:26 pm

lloydie wrote:Agreed the gutted box works well .
I will be starting the mk3 next week .
I want to in large it a lot this time and use a k&n and open top .
I just need to know what air jets to block up and what size mains to drop down to then I should be good to go .
I will be setting the mk3 on a spare set of carbs as my currant set up is nice .

If you want to plug the air bleeds, the easiest way to make sure you are looking at the right one is to remove the emulsion tube (or just the main jet0 and shine a light in the hole.
Look at the 3 bleeds on top and it will be easy.....but it's the middle one

As for mains, Per HRC you start with 158\162 mains and go from there..... and if you need mains...well I am a ways away but I still have the entire set that came with my HRC kit...so 2ea of every step from 140-170....
Which I really have no need for

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 9:35 pm

Ha ha . So what size dyno jet would that be ?
Its easier to get dyno jets thAn standard ones
Right do the middle one thanks hawk

cliveyandrews · Post by **cliveyandrews** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:49 pm

I put the RC45 throttle tube on mine, transferring the SP2 unit to hers. Lubed the chain. Then while I had Ps tank off, I saw she had a K&N, so I cleaned and oiled that. Stripped her starter switch down as it doesn't always "fire" - think it might be the solenoid, we shall see.

Oh, and had to oil my chain as it was the same colour as the bike.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk and my fat fingers and thumbs....

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 11:39 am

Lloydie your on some wild experimentations there. As for Keihin size versus Dynojet, knowone can truly answer that. there's the conversion chart http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 74#p136388 taken from http://www.4strokes.com/tech/carbjetxover.asp But how true this is I don't know as I have seen different conversion charts on the web and discussions on how reliable it is. Your just going to have to get a whole bunch of jets in different sizes and experiment. Also what are you going to do about needle profile as you haven't the HRC rich needles for running with no airbox. Surly by not having them, then 150\152 mains are irrelevant. It's your needle profile you need to worry about more.

The standard airbox I would have though will be on the conservative side in design and you have probably pushed it as far as you can go with a standard engine. I don't think you will gain anything more apart from intake noise and will most likely have negative effects without engine work. Don't forget there is only so much that the cylinder can handle according to volume and compression in the cylinders. They are designed for a certain amount of mix per the space and when you increase the amount your feeding it, then you need to work out how to get it in the cylinder efficiently. By adding more into the intakes you might even be slowing down the flow past the intake valves and into the cylinder. Imagine a funnel over a coke bottle, you fill it with water and it travels at the same speed through the hole into the bottle. But if you fill it too much it overflows and causes a back log and slows down the flow until the flowrate gets back to normal. If you open up the hole in the top of the bottle and the bottom of the funnel more, then more goes in at a faster rate. Unless you have a stage 2 engine then there is going to be no benefit in no airbox and even then you most likely going to only gain in the top end.

With more air you going to want hi comp pistons, a lot more lift and duration on cams, ported heads, oversize valves etc. Ten you also need to consider the exhaust system and the pulses/scavenging. But then your talking about a race bike like Yeti's which is unrideable on the road.

I guess all you can do is experiment and see what effect things have., it will be an interesting learning curve. But it will be a lot of money wasted on dyno time which could go towards something else like cams or something.

(:-})

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 12:37 pm

Thanks Carl I've been offered a set of ki mains :-)
And I do plan on hi comp pistons and ported head cams will wait for a while as I will be using 4 ex cams for the time being .
I can't get a hrc needle do I'm going to try the dj needle as see how I get on with that .

You should know me by now I just like to tinker :-) even more so now the cosmetics and suspension is done :-)

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 12:52 pm

Keihin sell richer or leaner needle profiles, the same as factory pro, they also sell alternative needle profiles. Actually I think there may be subtle differences in needle profiles between the US and UK as the Keihin numbers on them are different.

(:-})

8541Hawk · Post by **8541Hawk** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 5:20 pm

Yeah the needle P\Ns are the one thing that is blocked out on the HRC jet kit parts list....
They are both listed as "XXX-XX-XXXX" so that is one place where I really can't help out

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 5:29 pm

That takes the pish
I bet they are standard items on a Honda some where :-(
I will have to see how I get on with dj needles .
I started to make the templates for the modded box today I will make a new thread with this one when I start it properly.
I will need something to do when the vtr is away getting the akras fitted next week

bigtwinthing · Post by **bigtwinthing** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:42 pm

Scrubbed in the new tyres Dunlop Qualifier 11,s and then ragged it a bit!!! quite like the tyres, but still missing the Austria Mountain roads, bit to flat to torquay.

tony.mon · Post by **tony.mon** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:57 pm

I relegated mine to the back of the garage- I'll be concentrating on the Ped so that I can raise some cash for the rebuild.
I'm still not talking to it at the moment
b8stard.

Jamoi · Post by **Jamoi** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 8:20 pm

bigtwinthing wrote:Scrubbed in the new tyres Dunlop Qualifier 11,s and then ragged it a bit!!! quite like the tyres, but still missing the Austria Mountain roads, bit to flat to torquay.

I've got these on my bike and love them! Scrubbed in super quickly, heat up super quickly and let you ride super quickly! I've got no chicken strips on my rear, infact I've used a bit of the edge on the rear

but my fronts still have 15mm of unused rubber, I'm not sure why this occurs

I've heard someone say if you jack up the rear end it will cause the tyres to wear more evenly, but I wouldn't want to alter the standard geometry as I'm no Honda engineer or test rider! Have you noticed less use of the front compared to the rear?

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