Hi stormers!
I own a vtr 1000 F 97' and I made up my mind to install a dynojet stage 1 on it.
I began to disassemble the air box and now i'm around the carbs.
I know that the 2 carbs are fixed together. To disassemble them from the pipes, what do I have to do?
Should I disassemble them from themself first and then take them off the pipes ? Or should I let them together fixed and then take them off the pipes?
It's the first time I do that.
Don't really know how to proceed.
Thank you for any hint!
rémy
help for disassembling carbs
- poulet1212
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- Stormin Ben
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 12:23 am
- Location: Birmingham
Ok, well a picture paints a thousand words but as I haven't got a picture here goes . .
Take the carbs off together
To do this you'll need a long cross-head/phillips screwdriver
From the left side of the bike you should be able to see the 2 screws that clamp the carbs onto the cylinder head (underneath the carbs)
They are attached to bands that are on the tube of rubber between the carb and the head (one clamps carb to rubber, the other clamps rubber to head)
Undo the top one only, you only need to loosen it, not remove it completely
Then from the other side of the bike locate the same screw (its a bugger to get to but you may have a cut-out in the black plastic insert that fits under the airbox) and loosen that too
While you're on that side of the bike slacken and disconnect the throttle linkage (remember to mark which one goes where!!)
Now you should be able to rock the carbs side to side until they come off the inlet rubbers.
At this point the manual says you need to have drained the coolant to allow you to disconnect the carb heaters and remove the carbs completely. However, it is possible to get to the float bowls without removing completely
Fit the jets
Now the top end
NB under the carb tops is a bloomin long spring -watch out
Remove the black carb tops and retrieve the spring from the corner of the garage!
Carefully slide out the carb slide, being careful not to damage the rubber diaphram
Replace needle and drill slide as per instructions
When putting it back together make sure that the slide moves freely and that the diaphram is seated properly. Then bugger about for 20 mins to get the spring back in
Check the movement again by pushing the slide up from inside the carb barrel. It should return smoothly and slowish, not clang back down again
Now put carbs back on (helps to lubricate inside the rubbers to get the carbs back on)
Tighten mountings, replace throttle cables and refit airbox, tank etc
Hope this helps
Ben
Take the carbs off together
To do this you'll need a long cross-head/phillips screwdriver
From the left side of the bike you should be able to see the 2 screws that clamp the carbs onto the cylinder head (underneath the carbs)
They are attached to bands that are on the tube of rubber between the carb and the head (one clamps carb to rubber, the other clamps rubber to head)
Undo the top one only, you only need to loosen it, not remove it completely
Then from the other side of the bike locate the same screw (its a bugger to get to but you may have a cut-out in the black plastic insert that fits under the airbox) and loosen that too
While you're on that side of the bike slacken and disconnect the throttle linkage (remember to mark which one goes where!!)
Now you should be able to rock the carbs side to side until they come off the inlet rubbers.
At this point the manual says you need to have drained the coolant to allow you to disconnect the carb heaters and remove the carbs completely. However, it is possible to get to the float bowls without removing completely
Fit the jets
Now the top end
NB under the carb tops is a bloomin long spring -watch out
Remove the black carb tops and retrieve the spring from the corner of the garage!

Carefully slide out the carb slide, being careful not to damage the rubber diaphram
Replace needle and drill slide as per instructions
When putting it back together make sure that the slide moves freely and that the diaphram is seated properly. Then bugger about for 20 mins to get the spring back in

Check the movement again by pushing the slide up from inside the carb barrel. It should return smoothly and slowish, not clang back down again
Now put carbs back on (helps to lubricate inside the rubbers to get the carbs back on)
Tighten mountings, replace throttle cables and refit airbox, tank etc
Hope this helps
Ben
- poulet1212
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let's try it
Hi Ben,
thank you for your fast and complete reply!
In fact, I saw the 2 screws that are attached to bands that are on the tube of rubber between the carb and the head. I'm ok with you when you say: on the other side it's a BUGGER to get to! :mad2 I just went today to buy some tools that help to reach the "almost-unreachable" screws.
I think that will do it.
I will fellow the steps you detailed soon, I hope this week or most possible in two weeks because I go in holydays. :wink2 I will let you know in my progress,
thank you very much.
You did certainly, as you know well this trick, put a dyno jet stage one on your Vtr. Which jets did you place on the carbs? the small one or the big one of those provided in the Dyno jet kit?
I only have a K&N filter in the original air box and 2 MIG exhaust.
Am I wrong to think the small ones are better or enough for my case?
Thank you again,
regards.
Remy
thank you for your fast and complete reply!
In fact, I saw the 2 screws that are attached to bands that are on the tube of rubber between the carb and the head. I'm ok with you when you say: on the other side it's a BUGGER to get to! :mad2 I just went today to buy some tools that help to reach the "almost-unreachable" screws.

I will fellow the steps you detailed soon, I hope this week or most possible in two weeks because I go in holydays. :wink2 I will let you know in my progress,
thank you very much.
You did certainly, as you know well this trick, put a dyno jet stage one on your Vtr. Which jets did you place on the carbs? the small one or the big one of those provided in the Dyno jet kit?

I only have a K&N filter in the original air box and 2 MIG exhaust.
Am I wrong to think the small ones are better or enough for my case?

Thank you again,
regards.

Remy
- Stormin Ben
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 12:23 am
- Location: Birmingham