CCT and woe is me

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roadrun_fr
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Post by roadrun_fr »

bluesman wrote:If you know what you doing and accurately turn cranckshaft by small wrench by hand when making full rotation you can perfectly well feel and hear when camshaft lobes on each cylinder clearing valves.
how do you feel it ?
Do you remove spark plugs to feel it ?
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bluesman
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Post by bluesman »

Well, you can feel resistance on cranckshaft rotation raising as lobes of camshafts raising, but you need to listen carefully to hear in which cylinder valves closing. It is very good point about taking spark plug out and using wooden stick to touch piston and see at which stroke it is - that gives you 100% guarantee that you get it right.
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roadrun_fr
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Post by roadrun_fr »

What we are trying to find for the front is exhaust valves and intake valves closed, right ?

For one "FT" position at the crank, the front piston can be at the right TDC or the another 360° TDC position, and the front piston is at the higher height at these two different positions right ?
So, FT at the crank and piston at higher height is the same thing, isn't it ?
It's just 50% sure, i'm on the right TDC at the front ?

I do have to hear valve closing to be 100% sure ?
Or do I have to verify rear piston height at the same time ?
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bluesman
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Post by bluesman »

Sorry - you lost me there.. :?

Let me try to tell how I did it: aligned FT mark while listening to rear cylinder, rotating cranckshaft with small wrench while listening for valves to close. With valves closed I made sure that FT mark accurately aligned and then changed CCT. Then I did it on front cylinder exactly same way.
Reason for listening to valves is to make sure that you got right revolution.
However, if you do not want to take off plug bolts on cranck case side you can do it with wooden stick through spark plug hole only to make sure you are at TDC, not to check valves position.
But if you feel unsafe or unsure about verifying valves position by listening to valves - I'd recommend to remove one cam cover and follow method described on US forum.
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roadrun_fr
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Post by roadrun_fr »

OK so putting wooden stick or looking at FT mark at fly wheel is the same. :wink:
bluesman wrote:Let me try to tell how I did it: aligned FT mark while listening to rear cylinder, rotating cranckshaft with small wrench while listening for valves to close.
FT is for the front .. why do you listen at the rear ?

Another question, which cylinder fires first ? Rear or Front ?
Knowing this, I'd would feel the two compression strokes (1/4 turn or 3/4 turn ? motor is running cw or ccw ?) and checking FT mark, i'd be 100% sure for the front?
Last edited by roadrun_fr on Mon Aug 15, 2005 3:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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bluesman
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Post by bluesman »

roadrun_fr wrote:OK so putting wooden stick or looking at FT mark at fly wheel is the same. :wink:
bluesman wrote:Let me try to tell how I did it: aligned FT mark while listening to rear cylinder, rotating cranckshaft with small wrench while listening for valves to close.
FT is for the front .. why do you listen at the rear ?

Another question, which cylinder fires first ? Rear or Front ?
Knowing this, I'd would feel the two compression strokes (1/4 turn timing ?) and checking FT mark, i'd be 100% sure for the front?
Sorry - that's just mistype. Front cylinder with FT rear cylinder with RT marks accordingly.
I don't know which cylinder fires first - I guess you right about that, I just don't know....
But if you will figure out - would be great help for Storm owners...
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roadrun_fr
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Post by roadrun_fr »

ok, I will make another post :wink:
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