Oil Leak

[Boubepo]

I noticed smoke burning off my lower exhaust when I first stated it up, a closer look, shows an oil leak which seems to be coming from my rear cam chain tensioner [manual] it seems to be coming from the clamp down nut on the threaded part - everything is tight - what's going on?

[Jamoi]

Oil can escape through the thread on the tensioner if there is no sealant in there.

I'd be inclined to (follow the cam chain tensioner fitting guide) set the timing mark correctly on your flywheel, unwind the bolt on the tensioner and get a good ammount of gasket sealant on the thread and readjust the tension.

Maybe loctite has been used which can break up with extreme heat, or there might be no O-ring under the locking nut.

[VTRDark]

+1

Applying sealant to the thread also helps prevent the tensioner unwinding itself so fast if the locknut becomes loose.

Set rear cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke (RT) before loosening the tensioner off!!! Verify compression stroke by removing the rear cam cover and check both cam lobes are pointing upwards and inwards. Loosen tensioner, apply sealant, tighten back up so 7mm slack is in in-between the two cam sprockets. Replace cam cover being careful to align the gasket up and don't over-tighten the cam cover bolts as they can snap easily. Done.

Talking about cam cover gasket...you may want to double check this is not where your oil leak is coming from first. Especially the rear end of the gasket.

(:-})

[E.Marquez]

As stated, weeping oil from the adjuster threads is common... even on the MCCT designs with an O ring.
No need to Mess with the adjustment if it's right. Hold the adjuster and back off the lock nut. Spray with Brake clean and air dry.

Use a wicking grade thread lock like Loctite® 290™ Green Threadlocker or Permatex® Penetrating Grade Threadlocker .. add two drops and it will wick into the threads and help seal the oil weep. Hold the adjuster nut again and tighten the lock nut. Done..

[E.Marquez]

Talking about cam cover gasket...you may want to double check this is not where your oil leak is coming from first. Especially the rear end of the gasket.

(:-})

And or the speed sensor located at the back of the case... had that one start leaking on me a few years ago..

[VTRDark]

Use a wicking grade thread lock like Loctite® 290™ Green Threadlocker or Permatex® Penetrating Grade Threadlocker .. add two drops and it will wick into the threads and help seal the oil weep.

Now I like the sound of that. Wicking property threadlock is a new one on me, I have learnt something today I like to learn new things! Sounds like good stuff and more professional based than the usual more consumer based threadlock.

http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/lo ... /p/121-347How much

Looking at the product features, Localized heat and hand tools are needed for disassembly. How does this cope with engine heat. I've found that threadlock (admittedly the cheaper consumer stuff) dries out and cracks up.

And or the speed sensor located at the back of the case... had that one start leaking on me a few years ago..

I knew I should have mentioned that. it was an afterthought and I didn't bother.

(:-})

[E.Marquez]

Carl;
The wicking grade thread lock like I linked to is a medium strength product. In actual use, the wicking grade is about the same as medium strength in removing.,. no heat required, just a properly fit hand tool.
And on this side of the pond, a commonly available "consumer" use product.

Most all of the anaerobic thread locking or retaining compounds will cite in thier Technical data sheet https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTT ... 290-EN.pdf

a temp of 250c to soften the compound.. Wicking grade Loctite 290 is no different.. I find that only required when I have used high strength or "permanent" strength retaining compounds.

If wicking grade thread lock is new to you, you're going to flip over this.

Low strength, vibration resistant thread lock.. Used on carb screws and the like.
Loctite brand 222 is what I use.
http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/purp ... -13233.htm

This is the stuff you can use on any screw, just to give it a bit of vibration resistance.. Its the stuff you see "painted" on a assembled screw, that goes from screw head to the assembly.. and can be flaked off with a pick, or just unscrew the fastener and it it crack and flake off.

And please remember, color is not a type or grade of anaerobic thread lock or retaining compound. There is med strength "green" wicking grade,, and
retaining compound permanent strength "green"

Same idea with red, and blue...and thats just in one manufacture .. cross manufactures "colors" gets more confusing.


,

Use a wicking grade thread lock like Loctite® 290™ Green Threadlocker or Permatex® Penetrating Grade Threadlocker .. add two drops and it will wick into the threads and help seal the oil weep.

Now I like the sound of that. Wicking property threadlock is a new one on me, I have learnt something today I like to learn new things! Sounds like good stuff and more professional based than the usual more consumer based threadlock.

http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/lo ... /p/121-347How much

Looking at the product features, Localized heat and hand tools are needed for disassembly. How does this cope with engine heat. I've found that threadlock (admittedly the cheaper consumer stuff) dries out and cracks up.

And or the speed sensor located at the back of the case... had that one start leaking on me a few years ago..

I knew I should have mentioned that. it was an afterthought and I didn't bother.

(:-})

[VTRDark]

Wow thanks, that pdf is very informative. I got mesmerized by that henkelna site and the various threadlocks Loctite make. There's one for every purpose the right product for the job

(:-})

[Jamoi]

This is what i used

Seems ok

[Stratman]

Surely you could just loosen the lock nut without moving the tensioner, clean up the threads with some brake cleaner, use some wicking thread lock then re-tighten? Unless the leak is coming from the gasket where the tensioner meets the head. That's what I'd do first anyway.

[Boubepo]

Wow! Thanks guys, I've just got in from work but I can see there is a wealth of information there for me to study!

[Boubepo]

Okay, I've managed to locate some loctite 290 green from the UK, which hopefully is winging it's way over to Spain as I speak! I'm going to try loosening the lock nut first - clean the thread and fingers crossed the 290 green [thanks for the info E.Marquez] will do the trick! Failing that - it will mean pulling her to pieces again, only 6 months after fitting the MCCT's

[tony.mon]

Isn't this overkill?
Loosen locknut, shove in some silicon sealer (cheap bathroom sealant works just as well as posh, made-for-bikes stuff) then tighten up the locknut again.

Pennies, minutes, done.

[E.Marquez]

Isn't this overkill?
Loosen locknut, shove in some silicon sealer (cheap bathroom sealant works just as well as posh, made-for-bikes stuff) then tighten up the locknut again.

Pennies, minutes, done.

Overkill?, or choosing not to use plumbing repair, non oil and heat resistant plumbing RTV to fix this once and right?

To each his own..but I'll spend $5 on the correct product and do a job right, then wombles around using plumbers putty

In a pinch, Saturday night before the big ride with all your mates in the morning.... heck ya, use what ever is at hand to make it work, go ride, then fix it right on Monday.

[chric]

Could you just weld them on?