Interesting post which I will watch closely... Have a full VFR 750 swing arm, hub, wheel and a super blackbird caliper just sitting in the garage waiting for me to decide if I want to sell or keep for future project(s).
Just a possibly handy suggestion, with you increasing the wheel base (even by a few mill), the Centre of Gravity (CoG) position will be effected marginally (and height if the rear is raised), a good way of counteracting the negative effects would be to lower it slightly (lowering springs are available for front and back). It won't do a great deal in terms of CoG distance from the front, but the height change of CoG will most definitely be beneficial so not only will it look amazing, with the right tyres, it will stick to the road like s**t to a blanket.
I'm not death to power tools... If it breaks, it's obviously NOT a power tool!!!
good work there lads, and great idea to use the spare frames and engines in lloydies parts cave to allow you to work out all teh issues without having to take a bike off the road.
I agree its much easier if there is 2 of you, as you keep each other motivated and problems get brainstormed and fixed so much faster. Lucky we have a friendly neighborhood Lloydie
Nice one, for taking on the challenge, it doesn’t look straight forward and there will be plenty of head scratching and cups of tea but that's what it's all about!
We had thought of making an adjustable linkage using rose joints and a strong steel tube so we can adjust the ride height easily without having to dismantle everything. We still have to get some more clearance from the bottom shock bolt to do it but we should get there.
Just had a thought though.... Would the diamenter of a rose joint be enough to not bend the linkage bolt that goes through the engine? It would be a lot of force acting on one area of the bolt. We are getting spacer tubes made to meet what ever linkage we use so would this strengthen the bolt enough or would we need to rethink our approch?
My thinking was to buy the rose joints with a 12mm hole and then turn the two pieces of steel down to just under 12mm diameter at each end and so each go half way into the rose joint and meet in the middle.. the two parts would be the overall length you need to fit in the linkage bit. You would just then have the 8.2 diameter hole all the way through both of them so it clamps up both sides, the steel spacers are held rigid and in place and the rotation is handled by the rose joint rather than bearings in a dog bone. You can also decide where you want the linkage to be or move it left and right by changing the length of the steel spacers either side.
sound any good or do I have the wrong idea of what you wrote?
Why ask... sometime you just go to do it and find out?
My thinking was to buy the rose joints with a 12mm hole and then turn the two pieces of steel down to just under 12mm diameter at each end and so each go half way into the rose joint and meet in the middle.. the two parts would be the overall length you need to fit in the linkage bit. You would just then have the 8.2 diameter hole all the way through both of them so it clamps up both sides, the steel spacers are held rigid and in place and the rotation is handled by the rose joint rather than bearings in a dog bone. You can also decide where you want the linkage to be or move it left and right by changing the length of the steel spacers either side.
sound any good or do I have the wrong idea of what you wrote?
Yeah that's the kinda thing would also help with the clearance issue with the swing arm and the linkage triangle as with this methods you suggested the overal width of the linkage would be narrower (i would imagine) sorry if iv got that wrong and all back to front, I think better with the bits infront of me so I can have a play.