BLEEDING BRAKES

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VTRDark
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by VTRDark »

Get speed bleeders.... have them all around on mine and they work very well.......
I was thinking about these (may still do) but I think genuine speedbleeders can only be purchased from the States. Not found them over here. The stainless ones are yummy but 3 of them gets pricey. I have had bad experiences with some of the eBay copies over here so be careful.

Mik do you know which thread size and pitch bleeders are required.
The speedbleeder site does not have the VTR listed.

It's the same principle as the one way valve in my Catheter :lol:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... t=catheter

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bigtwinthing
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by bigtwinthing »

Pump the lever and pull it back as far as you can, and cable tie it hard on, leave overnight and see how it is. If the lever still pulls right back against the bar again you have air in there somewhere, or air is getting in , or a seal is letting by.
missing the noise, not the vibes. However never say never!
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E.Marquez
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by E.Marquez »

dudehog wrote:But i know there is no air in the system. Not even the tiniest bubble. I've gone through 10l of fluid.
it's the together/seperate thing thats doing my head in. I really don't understand it.
Many times it seems that way... Right until the air bubble comes out,

Bottom line, assuming the hard parts are in good condition, mushy lever is only one thing ... Air

Lots I times it's a bubble trapped in the master cyl at a high point the will not move under the small amount of fluid and speed we get even with vac bleeders.

If you remove the master from the bar. And hold it so the fluid hole in the res is the highest point... Squeeze and release the lever a few times... And watch as the air bubble comes out the port..
Now think like a bubble that will always find the "high" point in each component .. Caliper. Lines... Master.... And move the components so that the air can move to an escape point... Then crack that point open and squeeze the lever..
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sirch345
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by sirch345 »

I was going to suggest what E.Marquez said, either remove the master cylinder from the handlebar, or remove the handlebar and master cylinder complete, but bleed them with that double banjo bolt facing lower down so no air can be trapped there.
dudehog wrote: I have also tried pumping the lever so it's harder, open the nipple so it releases the pressure and (not closing the nipple) let go of the lever. then pulling the lever again air bubbles can be seen coming out of the caliper/banjo bolt again. I know the inside volume of the caliper and there is not that much air in it compared to what came out. so is THAT method drawing in air?


You should be closing the bleed nipple before letting go of the lever,

Chris.
dudehog
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by dudehog »

thanks guys. will give these things a go when it stops raining and let you know how i get on :)
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VTRDark
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by VTRDark »

You should be closing the bleed nipple before letting go of the lever,
Well spotted Chris.

Off topic:
That post wasn't there when I was posting earlier :confused this happens a fair bit actually. How can an earlier post get posted without being previewed while posting a later post.


On topic:

Here's a good link on bleeding brakes.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 98#p117435
I've tried syringing, vacuum bleeding (which i've learnt isn't that great)
That's what I found too. In fact I went back to conventional bleeding as I was getting a better bleed. The syringe is better when you have someone to operate the syringe for you while you go around opening and closing the nipples. Don't forget to keep an eye on the reservoir level or you will be starting from the beginning again. :wink:

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sirch345
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by sirch345 »

cybercarl wrote:
You should be closing the bleed nipple before letting go of the lever,
Well spotted Chris.

Off topic:
That post wasn't there when I was posting earlier :confused this happens a fair bit actually. How can an earlier post get posted without being previewed while posting a later post.
Could it be Carl that you took a little longer on composing that particular post, as that post by dudehog was only posted 9mins before yours. Perhaps you started writing a reply and went off to do something else before finishing it and submitting, although you usually get a pop up telling you that has happened come to think of it. I can't think of a better answer :)

I've not noticed anything like that happening myself, yet,

Chris.
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lloydie
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by lloydie »

sirch345 wrote:
cybercarl wrote:
You should be closing the bleed nipple before letting go of the lever,
Well spotted Chris.

Off topic:
That post wasn't there when I was posting earlier :confused this happens a fair bit actually. How can an earlier post get posted without being previewed while posting a later post.
Could it be Carl that you took a little longer on composing that particular post, as that post by dudehog was only posted 9mins before yours. Perhaps you started writing a reply and went off to do something else before finishing it and submitting, although you usually get a pop up telling you that has happened come to think of it. I can't think of a better answer :)

I've not noticed anything like that happening myself, yet,

Chris.
Happens all the time with tapatalk :-(
Gazfirestormowner
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by Gazfirestormowner »

I'm going to be trying the catheter bag that Carl suggested to do mine turned up this morning just need to get some brake fluid is there a specific fluid that is better for the vtr I.e dot 4,5,6,7,8.....lol
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by Virt »

DOT 4
Slowly approaching the more bikes than birthdays achievement
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E.Marquez
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by E.Marquez »

Gazfirestormowner wrote:I'm going to be trying the catheter bag that Carl suggested to do mine turned up this morning just need to get some brake fluid is there a specific fluid that is better for the vtr I.e dot 4,5,6,7,8.....lol
DOT 5.1 is a good fluid, DOT 4 is good, DOT 3 in some types can be good as well DOT 5 which is silicone based,, NOT GOOD for this bike, normal use, and very pricey to switch over to)

Wet boiling point is the important number for a road bike that will not see fluid changes each race prep day.

I run Motul 5.1 in the bikes
100% synthetic.
Mixes with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 (not Dot 5).
Dry boiling point: 272°C / 522°F.
Wet boiling point: 185°C / 365°F.
Standards: FMVSS 116 DOT 5.1 NON SILICONE BASE.

In my Mustangs I use Motul RBF 660 Racing Brake Fluid
100% synthetic racing fluid - DOT 4.
One of the highest dry boiling points on the market: 617°F (325°C).
Ultra-efficient in the rain with a very high wet boiling point: 400°F (204°C).
Mixes with DOT 3 and 4 systems (Not DOT 5).
O.E.M. approvals: FMVSS 116 DOT 4; SAE J170


Brake fluid basics
DOT3 brake fluid is the "conventional" brake fluid used in most vehicles.

Advantages:

DOT3 fluid is inexpensive.

Disadvantages:

DOT3 fluid eats paint!
DOT3 fluid absorbs water very readily. (This is often referred to as being hydroscopic.) As such, once a
container of DOT3 has been opened, it should not be stored for periods much longer than a week before use.
Since DOT3 fluid absorbs water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders. It also makes the fluid have a lower boiling point, mean brake fade sooner.

DOT4

DOT4 brake fluid is the brake fluid suggested for use in many some late model cars and bikes.

Advantages:

DOT4 fluid is available at most auto parts stores, and at some (but not all) gas stations or department stores.
DOT4 fluid does not absorb water as readily as DOT3 fluid.
DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3 fluid, making it more suitable for high performance applications
where the brake systems are expected to get hot.

Disadvantages:

DOT4 fluid eats paint!
DOT4 fluid is generally about 50% more expensive than DOT3 fluid.
Since DOT4 fluid still absorbs moisture it too can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders. It also makes the fluid have a lower boiling point, mean brake fade sooner.

DOT5

DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid.

Advantages:

DOT5 doesn't eat paint.
DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.
DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations. (See more on this under disadvantages, below.)

Disadvantages:

DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5.1. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some
degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic
system.
Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5
formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in all current formulations.
Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This will cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.
Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form
large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.
DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a slightly soft feeling in the lever or pedal ), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.
DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores. Or you Military POL point in the motor pool

DOT5.1

DOT5.1 is a relatively new brake fluid that is causing no end of confusion amongst mechanics. The DOT could avoid a
lot of confusion by giving this new fluid a different designation. The 5.1 designation could lead one to believe that it's a
modification of silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid. Calling it 4.1 or 6 might have been more appropriate since it's a
glycol-based fluid like the DOT 3 and 4 types, not silicone-based like DOT 5 fluid.

As far as the basic behavior of 5.1 fluids, they are much like "high performance" DOT4 fluids, rather than traditional
DOT5 brake fluids.

Advantages:

DOT5.1 provides superior performance over the other brake fluids discussed here. It has a higher boiling point,
either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing
fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher
than racing's (about 145 C).
DOT5.1 is said to be compatible with all rubber formulations.

Disadvantages:

DOT 5.1 fluids (and Spectro's Supreme DOT4) are non-silicone fluids and will absorb water.
DOT 5.1 fluids, like DOT3 & DOT4 will eat paint.
DOT 5.1 fluids are somewhat difficult to find for sale, typically at very few auto parts stores or motorcycle shops, mostly limited to "speed shops."
DOT 5.1 will be more expensive than DOT3 or DOT4, and more difficult to find.
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sirch345
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Re: BLEEDING BRAKES

Post by sirch345 »

lloydie wrote: Happens all the time with tapatalk :-(
I'm not that advanced yet :wink: :lol: although that sounds like a step backwards,

Chris.
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