This winter's rebuild and mods

[lloydie]

Tony could you use car door seal to seal it up ?
I know they use it on the rsv air box

[tony.mon]

Yes, something like that will do.
There's quite a gap, especially at the front where the tank mounts go.

[tony.mon]

Part-finished project:

And from the rear:



And it sits here:

The two small rectangles bottom left are the fuel-air ratio displays.
Obviously not yet finished to the final shape, and I need to route the cabling, wire it up, and fit the standard for now exhaust headers with the Lambda bosses welded in, which will all be done on Saturday. And replace the temporary nut and bolt sets with stainless ones.

Also to be done on Saturday is a new seal on the RH USD fork, which is bloody leaking already....
But at least it's back in rideable condition, went out for an hour tonight to see what rattled or fell off- nothing I've noticed so far.

[lloydie]

Looks a right mess but can see where it's going . Keep it up

[VTRDark]

Now that's not what I was expecting. I imagined you was making a carbon facia to fill around the front of the clocks and rounded to the shape of the fairing and surrounding the sides of the clocks. I take it you going to cut the top to fit the around the base of the clocks where you have it. What's the carbon like to cut?

(:-})

[tony.mon]

Now that's not what I was expecting. I imagined you was making a carbon facia to fill around the front of the clocks and rounded to the shape of the fairing and surrounding the sides of the clocks. I take it you going to cut the top to fit the around the base of the clocks where you have it. What's the carbon like to cut?

(:-})

Nearly... The top yoke on the gullwing Blade 929 has a casting in front to take the ignition switch. and that's normally fitted with a cover. But by leaving the cover off there are two mounting holes, which can be tapped M6 and will act as mounting points for the new mounting plate. The new display unit will move with the bars, but as you can see I've also fitted a 12v socket and charging socket for the Optimate Can Bus charger I have.
I have a small light and switch for a manual or 2nd rad fan so i might as well fit those before shaping it to it's final shape.
Lastly I have a digital clock/temp sensor which will fit on with Velcro under the key hole- effectively on the top yoke.
I'll cut a section out of the middle upper edge so that I can still see the temp gauge.

And I was considering making a SatNav mounting plate with a removable mount, but as that normally doesn't get used unless I have a tank bag on, and mine has a map pocket which takes the Sat Nav perfectly well, and is waterproof, I may as well just carry on using that, thinking about it. It plugs into the cig lighter socket, but that's also going to be useful for an airbed inflator or LED lead light.

It'll look a bit better once it's finished, Lloydie, well, I think it will anyway- let's see.

The circuit boards with the Lambda display on are small, but about 3mm thick, so I sandwiched two 2mm carbon plates together and cut out the holes to set the displays in.
The I cut the viewing windows into another sheet which sits on top of those two. A sheet of clear plastic sits in between. Finally there's a single sheet of Carbon that sits underneath and seals the leads running into the displays.
So five bloody sheets in all, and it's a bugger to cut!

I killed a Bosch hammer drill working on it, but then that's pretty old and has stood up to many years of driving a flex drive for hours gas flowing heads etc, so I'm not too distraught at that. The cheap Dremel copy did the rest without getting too hot.

But tonight I collected these:

Got charged £40 cash for the bosses to be welded on, but it's still cheaper than buying a welder- which I will have to do at some stage before I can make the big bore exhaust.
As these are temporary I'm not even going to clean up the welds.

They'll go on to the bike Saturday, and I can get the display finished and connected.
I'll add a video, assuming it all works

[kenmoore]

Very interested in how you do your big bore exhaust.

[tony.mon]

Very interested in how you do your big bore exhaust.

I have assembled a spare frame, forks, an empty set of engine cases and scrap heads, footrests etc, and can use this to make a perfectly-fitting set, which will align with the "dummy" bike, effectively a jig.

That way I'll know that they will fit exactly when transferred to my running bike.

I have borrowed a Yoshimura exhaust system to show me where Yoshimura have chosen to put the link pipes etc, but I might have a go at designing some alternatives and test them on the dyno, one against the other.

i don't doubt that Yoshi have done a great job, but it can sometimes be the case that a designer sacrifices a lot of mid-range, to example, for top end gains, for racing purposes- a street bikes needs both, and so small alterations might make it much more rideable.

Or I could end up with one for track days, one for street, and one for the drag strip!

[kenmoore]

I use my bike for two of the mentioned applications.

No drags for me.

I really want an exhaust and realise that all of our bikes have different mods, but would still love a big bore system and am very interested in what you do.

[gl_s_r]

Can someone kindly explain to me why they would want a big bore exhaust over standard size bore (I am referring to bore size only and NOT shape or design) and when the application of a big bore would actually come into effect and make a sensible swap?

Thanks muchly

[agentpineapple]

I was under the impression that a bigger bore internal diameter was to allow greater exhaust gas flow, the more efficient the gas flow the better, I assume this would only really benefit a bike with better air intake flow and fuel flow. but then I'm a mechanical numpty as its been pointed out many many times...

[lloydie]

But the question is when is it to big ?
All engines need back pressure from the exhaust to fuel right except top fuel drag cars :-) .

I have read on many Ducati forums that a big boar pipes release power and as dose dumping the air box ,
But if you look at all the after market exhausts for the storm all are normal size bores except the moriwaki stage 2-3 .
These after market exhausts all use balance pipes or different mating sections to aide scavenging .
If I was to make my own I would follow the akrapovic and yoshi pipes

[agentpineapple]

But the question is when is it to big ?
All engines need back pressure from the exhaust to fuel right except top fuel drag cars :-) .

I have read on many Ducati forums that a big boar pipes release power and as dose dumping the air box ,
But if you look at all the after market exhausts for the storm all are normal size bores except the moriwaki stage 2-3 .
These after market exhausts all use balance pipes or different mating sections to aide scavenging .
If I was to make my own I would follow the akrapovic and yoshi pipes

I ran a titanium big bore header 2yrs ago, it did not have a balance pipe, I believe it was a privately made system, and very good quality, not sure how much bigger the i.d was, mark get the verniers out....

[lloydie]

But the question is when is it to big ?
All engines need back pressure from the exhaust to fuel right except top fuel drag cars :-) .

I have read on many Ducati forums that a big boar pipes release power and as dose dumping the air box ,
But if you look at all the after market exhausts for the storm all are normal size bores except the moriwaki stage 2-3 .
These after market exhausts all use balance pipes or different mating sections to aide scavenging .
If I was to make my own I would follow the akrapovic and yoshi pipes

I ran a titanium big bore header 2yrs ago, it did not have a balance pipe, I believe it was a privately made system, and very good quality, not sure how much bigger the i.d was, mark get the verniers out....

And as yours ran 180' out back then we won't know how it performed on a standard bike .

[VTRDark]

Can someone kindly explain to me why they would want a big bore exhaust over standard size bore

That's a very good question. I believe the majority of folk want one because it's a fad/fashion...a bit like stubbies, though there are also a lot of them because of crash damage, so they cut them shorter. Most folk will do things like this without even realising what they are doing. The pro's and cons, where they are moving the power too. How is it effecting the pulses and/or scavenging. As long as it looks and sounds good it gives them something to talk about


Exhaust tuning Is all very complicated stuff as it involves maths and most likely an understanding of fluid dynamics. Way over my head!!! It's not quite as easy as bigger gives better flow because that is not always true. Make it bigger and you loose velocity. The smallest changes can have huge effects. For example...when I was riding around on the fazer I bought some after market headers which did not have the two balance pipes up front (close to ports roughly 6inches away/along the pipe) these linked between one cylinder to the other and basically merged two cylinders to each other. I had an instant very noticeable seat of the pants loss of bottom end grunt. Put the standard ones back on with the balance pipes and the bottom end grunt was back.

Then there is the exhaust length. Does one make the length shorter to compensate for the bigger bore keeping the same total mass in the system. How does the speed effect this. How does the change in temps affect the speed. Should it be longer or shorter depending on if there is more or less velocity. One could even go as far as thinking about the aerodynamics as well. The angle of the exhaust and speed/distance of exhaust pulses/flow out the back of cans to reduce drag. No simple task without the right tools and testing equipment.

Some links.
Exhaust and intake tuning

How To Calculate Muffler Size and Exhaust Pipe Diameter

Exhaust System Theory 101

Exhaust System Technology

This is worth a read as well.
http://www.rc51.org/exhaust.htm

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1435

All very interesting reading.

(:-})