This winter's rebuild and mods

[lloydie]

.

Then there is the exhaust length. Does one make the length shorter to compensate for the bigger bore keeping the same total mass in the system

I think it's longer to compensate shorter your decreasing it even more .
I may be wrong tho as normal
And I don't think it's mass more todo with back pressure .

[gl_s_r]

Can someone kindly explain to me why they would want a big bore exhaust over standard size bore

That's a very good question. I believe the majority of folk want one because it's a fad/fashion...a bit like stubbies, though there are also a lot of them because of crash damage, so they cut them shorter. Most folk will do things like this without even realising what they are doing. The pro's and cons, where they are moving the power too. How is it effecting the pulses and/or scavenging. As long as it looks and sounds good it gives them something to talk about

I understand it will affect the bikes tune to a good degree and also the lengths alters things but that aside along with balance pipes etc what I am asking why would you really want one... where and when does it actually benefit to have one?

If I had an identical set of pipes side by side and one is say 50mm diameter and the other 60mm diameter at what point do I need the 60's??

[VTRDark]

That I don't know Don't know where the power would be moved too. At a guess I would say more towards top end as it's mainly race pipes that have the bigger bore headers. But then a lot depends on the state of tune the engine is in.

(:-})

[kenmoore]

I was at a track day and bumped into a fellow Storm owner.

His bike looked like a piece of sh1t.

A cobbled together thing that looked like a death trap.

I was in the med to fast group with him.

We got talking and compared notes.

Same hi comp pistons, same jetting, lightened flywheel etc and as near as we could tell the only difference was that I have an electric water pump.( Other similar engine mods were present on both bikes)

Some of our running gear was different, and my bike would be heavier as it is road registered.

One major difference was that the other bike had a home made big bore exhaust with a set of crappy carbon microns with baffles in that looked like they were ready to fall apart.

There was no collector as such, just a link pipe between the front and rear headers that was huge.

The system looked like it was made out of scrap, and was roughly built.

All that aside, I had a ride and it offered good power at all revs.

I rode it hard, I laboured it, short shifted, revved the ring out of it and it felt strong, and sounded incredible.

One thing I noticed was that the gasses out the back were more evident.

He rode my bike as well and we compared notes again.

Like me his impression was that his bike was stronger in the upper revs, especially in the lower three gears.

We measured the length of our cans and they were the same at roughly 450mm.

I don't profess to understand the dynamics of exhaust design, and yes there is a certain brag and bling factor at play, however I am still convinced that a larger bore would be of benefit to me both at the track and on the road taking into account that I do thrash my bike regularly.

I am not a Rossi or anything like that but I am at a stage where I want to develop the performance more and also personalise my bike .

An ideal situation would of been to put both bikes on a Dyno, but my butt told me that his bike was stronger.

Not by much, but enough to notice it.

I was a little disappointed as I have done a lot to my bike over 2 years of ownership, but was a bit happier when he told me he had been mucking around with his bike for 8 years.

I could go on and on , however it has aroused my curiosity and I am intending to have a go in the near future.

One could say that it is a pipe dream of mine!

No pun intended.

[tony.mon]

It's very complicated, apparently, and just a larger diameter pipe to the same profiles won't get you any gain unless the standard pipe diameter is too restrictive, as I understand it. But often this is complicated by tapering sections, smaller diameter where you need gas speed, and larger bore where you wish to effectively add length but don't want the pipe hanging out of the back of the bike.
It's still a tuned length, with a pipe length (including can, so +1 on the cut down can comments) that's optimised to a specific engine speed. But you can, by enlarging the volume (not mass) of the system within the same overall length, move that peak point up or down.
That's about the sum total of my knowledge so far, and I will be carefully reading all of the information posted and links, plus some other's I've collected, before making anything.
But in order that I don't stray too far I have a known good one to copy....
As said, i'll probably make a few up and dyno them, assuming the seat of the pants test doesn't tell me I've lost 20bhp- not much point measuring a total failure.

Ah, well, if it were easy everyone would be having a go....


Don't let me stop you, though.

[VTRDark]

How are you going to go about the bending and tapering Tony? or will you outsource that part. While on the subject of exhausts, I was looking through the VHT paints the other day. They do a clear laquer (SP115) that can be used on the outside of exhaust headers. They also do another product that contains ceramics to spray the inside of the pipe to help with heat dissipation and prevent blueing. Note this is the same product (SP101) listed further down for engine components.

http://www.speco.com.au/vht_guide.html

(:-})

[tony.mon]

90 degree and 45 degree mandrel bends, cut shirt to give less than 90 and 45 degrees where necessary.

When you look at the system, it's capable of being made by just those bends, with some cut and shut welding.

[tony.mon]

A bit of progress today.
I got the display finished:


The rider's eye view shows that I can still see the instruments:


I can't easily see the RH indicator telltale light, but I have rom in the display to fit additional lights there, I may have a few switches and controls to add as well.

Tomorrow I'll get the AF display connected and running, and we can see if it works, or it's back to the drawing board.

And rebuilt one fork leg, right pain that was! But done, now, so let's see if it leaks on the road. I've never bothered with a fork seal driver before but bought one for £30 for the 43mm Blade forks- it's brilliant!
Why didn't i do that years ago?

[lloydie]

Yep them seal drivers are fab I used one once and keep meaning to buy one ,well I will for the track bikes forks . Dash looks better

[CruxGNZ]

Tony, how about moving the indicator lights to the new dash? I did something similar on my bike with super bright LED's and a new digital gauge.
If you think about it, you really don't need to see which turn signal is on, just that a turn signal is on. Just hook the turn signals to one LED on the new dash. Was just a thought.

[tony.mon]

Good idea, I can sort of see it with the peripheral vision in my left eye peering past the fluid res, so I'm going to ride it as is to see if it creates a problem.

[YETI]

Just thought I would post up a picture of
my Lambda sensor lights



obviously this is on a race bike with one sensor
in a central position covering both cylinders .
i`ll find out the manufacturer next time I strip
the bodywork off .

YETI..

[tony.mon]

Another day, and some more progress.

The fuel air display is now fitted and working, here's a link to my video as promised: (Click on the pic to run it)


All I have left to do is tidy up the wiring....

[Jamoi]

Good work sir, best of luck with the wiring, this lot took me ages!!

[lloydie]

Just thought I would post up a picture of
my Lambda sensor lights



obviously this is on a race bike with one sensor
in a central position covering both cylinders .
i`ll find out the manufacturer next time I strip
the bodywork off .

YETI..

Love the pink tat