Sorry if this has been answered a million times, but I couldn't find the answer anywhere....
I'm going to be taking the forks apart in the next few days - seals need changing, and while I'm doing it, the oil will be done too...can anyone tell me what fork oil I should use? I think the Honda workshop manual says 10W oil, but can I go for heavier oil, as I don't want a soggy front end?! What do you guys use?
FYI, I'm on the Pedrosa side of the weigh in things at 10st 10!!
the biggest problem with the storm front end is soft springs and you are best to get a set of new springs to suit your weight for when you rebuild rather than try and compensate by thicker oil.
with the correct springs you should be running a 7.5wt with 140mm airgap and sag set at 28mm[sag number is from memory and it may be wrong, but there are links in workshop knowlegebase that detail the setting method and limits]
Ok, I've just bought a set of K-Tech springs for the 'storm, but a mate is telling me there's no point in doing this unless I revalve them at the same time.....
Is this really the case, or is he talking out of his butt?!!
Ted77 wrote:Ok, I've just bought a set of K-Tech springs for the 'storm, but a mate is telling me there's no point in doing this unless I revalve them at the same time.....
Is this really the case, or is he talking out of his butt?!!
a re-valve would obviously be beneficial but it's not absolutely necessary, simply grinding the step off the damping adjuster combined with some linear springs will give a very worthwhile improvement.
I've now gone all European and bought a KTM Superduke GT and Aprilia RSV1000R ,
Storm is now gone . .
budd wrote:simply grinding the step off the damping adjuster combined with some linear springs will give a very worthwhile improvement.
Thanks Budd - spoke with K-Tech, and they said that while re-valving would make things a whole lot better, it is fine to leave with the old valves in - and just make sure the rebound is set to compensate the old ones. Seeing as the re-valve is £500, me thinks I'll leave it as is, and possibly do the blade conversion in the future!
What are your thoughts? Does that sound like the logical thing to do?
Ted77 wrote:Seeing as the re-valve is £500, me thinks I'll leave it as is, and possibly do the blade conversion in the future!
What are your thoughts? Does that sound like the logical thing to do?
Cheers in advance
Ed
revalve for 500 GBP?? Racetech Gold Valve kit is starting somewhere at 125 USD, so you would be able to get it to 200USD in total. Maxton offerred rework of forks - with new springs and revalve, without seals and bushing - for 300 GBP, not sure about current pricing.
"Revolution Racing" fork tune suitable for Street and occasional T/day usage (say 6 a year) costs £225.00 and this includes return carriage to any UK Mainland. The tune includes new linear springs, modified spacers, modified taper rods, modified damper cartridge, modified OEM compression valves, different oil grade and air gap.
The full Race Tune which is for Racing or fully dedicated Trackday usage includes all of the above but with the replacement OEM compression valves with Racetec "Gold Seal" valves and this costs £365.00 including return carriage to any UK Mainland.
According to your quotes this is a bargain!
i'll be using rodger's services later this year, it'll be the road spec for me, I've ridden a bike with rodgered forks and its 100 times better than standard.....
lloydie wrote:I'm thinking about going back to standard storm forks and sending them to roger as my blade set up just ain't working how I want it to .
You can send to Roger blade forks as well, work will be the same. I just swapped to 96 blade forks with ohlins springs, racetech comp valves and trimmed rebound rods, and feel the difference compared to std forks with the same mods. I just think about custom made lower triple clamp for track use.
, 
. .
