Cannot turn engine by hand. Front head install

[jztam]

Just trying my front head install after a CCT failure. Head got sent out for repairs and am now trying to reinstall the timing chain/cams. I torqued down the head to the specs, but cannot for the life of me, manage to turn the engine by rotating the 17mm crank bolt by hand. In other words, I don't remember it being this difficult to turn the crank nut past the TDC spots.

Is the compression in the front cylinder that strong with all the valves closed?
Is it as easy as loosening the head bolts again and THEN checking the rear timing at RT, then rotating to FT to time the front cams?

[tony.mon]

No, it's easier than that. Take out the spark plugs....
If you still can't turn the engine by hand you've done something wrong.
Will te engine turn in reverse? If so, when you revolve it the correct way (anticlockwise) does it come to a sudden stop, with a clunk?
If so, you haven't got the timing right- don't force it; you'll only bend valves.

I'd suggest pulling it apart and starting again, following Sirch's giude in the Workshop Knowledgebase stickies.

[parkergb6]

Nope you should be able to turn by hand using the crank bolt.
1. Cam chain can sometimes snag if the tension isnt taken out making it feel like its locked up.
2. Does it turn by hand if camshafts are removed and slack of chain is taken up in your hand.
3. If timing is out by it could be the valves contacting the piston head.
4. Are the spark plugs out?

Im sure you have but have you have but have you looked through Cybercarls Guide its very handy.

Cheers
Geoff

[jztam]

Great ideas, thanks to all.
Before I tackle it again tonight...here's more info:
The rear cylinder has not been worked on at all, I've only removed the cam cover to look at the cams. The timing chain and cams have not been removed. Won't know if the spark plug is still in, until I get home tonight.

The front head is torqued down, timing chain is hanging out the front of the head, cams are still on the bench. Front spark plug is on the bench.

I'll check the rear spark plug to make sure it's actuall out. Doh! ;)
Then try turning the crank nut to the RT mark, and inspect the rear cams for correct positioning.
Next, turn crank to FT, and hopefully it will turn without the extreme resistance I am experiencing/imagining.

Q: What is the torque setting on the two little bolts on the Left hand side of the head? Manual says install these two last, but didn't find a torque setting for them.

Thanks to all.

[jztam]

Front cylinder's valves are all closed, and since the timing chain is off, they should not move at all until the cams and chain are set up. Could this be the resistance I am feeling.

[tony.mon]

I'd guess that the cam chain has folded around the crank sprocket, and jammed.
Pull it fully out (roll the engine back a few degrees clockwise to free it).

[darkember]

Q: What is the torque setting on the two little bolts on the Left hand side of the head? Manual says install these two last, but didn't find a torque setting for them.

No more that 10 NM they are very soft

[bazza696]

Another possibility you may have not seated the cam shaft correctly into the original grooves. When I did the shims I had to move the cam shaft slightly before tightening down as they locked.

[anonomoose]

I had the same thing. Cam chain kept getting snagged up. Couldnt work out what it was. Had the cylinder head on an off about 6 times before I realised what it was. Torqued up and everything. Was frustrating.

[jztam]

Solved!
Checked that both spark plug holes were indeed uninhabitated, even though there were two plugs on the bench. Okay, so I'm not weak, just dumb.
Scratched my head and re-read the whole procedure.

The previous technician who worked on the rear cylinder had removed the two 10mm bolts securing the rear EXhaust cam-wheel. Ugh. Good thing I did not try to muscle past the tough resistance...that would have been a bad thing. I ^H^H The previous technician ;) thought that the rear intake cam had slipped a tooth, but further reading tells me different. What I "thought" was a slipped tooth was merely some chain stretch, and not being able to see the RI mark on the foreward camwheel. My eureka moment came when I was turning the crank nut back and forth near the RT mark, and I _FINALLY_ started watching the rear cams as I was turning the engine. This is where years of playing "Twister" (read, shadetree wrenching) come in handy.
The exhaust camwheel was NOT moving at all.

NOTE: Mark the camwheels that are hard to see, because the frame is in the way (rear intake and front ??) Mark them at 180 degrees from the obscured markings, so you can see the new mark easier, later on. When I went to mark the RI wheel, I found out that I had ALREADY marked it, in red sharpie, it was just really faded. Ugh. Dumb.

After torquing up the rear cams, all was good. Front cams were a cinch after that lesson in humility.
Thanks to all participants for their advice.

Now, I have a different problem. I have only one of the two exhaust nuts for the front header.
Q: What is the nominal size for this nut? I can't find it at the nuts and bolts store.

[Wicky]

….

Now, I have a different problem. I have only one of the two exhaust nuts for the front header.
Q: What is the nominal size for this nut? I can't find it at the nuts and bolts store.

http://www.ronayers.com/MUFFLER-C212285.aspx