Day 8 of our tour of North Vietnam.
Hanoi - Hai Phong - Cat Ba Island
We had planned a well-deserved 'rest evening' for the previous day, staying in Hanoi before setting off again the next day. But after arriving back late due to the Minsk' calling it a day, that went out the window. We'd got back, dropped the bikes at Flamingo, decided to change the bikes rather than continue with the Minsks, and had to lug the gear back to the hotel. Once all that was done we were off out for a beer, and a lovely meal at the french place whose name escapes me.
Late at night on the way back to the hotel we encountered the bin lorry. Nothing unusual in that, you may think, that is until we noticed the bloke on the roof whose job it is to lift all the electrical cabling out of the way so the truck can get through.
The plan for today was to load up the bikes again (which had been stored at Flamingo overnight) and ride to Cat Ba island via a ferry. However, the day started out badly, with a severe thunderstorm over Hanoi. We actually sat there at breakfast, a lovely omelette with fresh bread and coffee, and seriously considered knocking the Cat Ba part of the trip on the head. Then we came to our senses and thought ‘baldrocks to it’.
We walked round to flamingo and did some settling up, as we'd changed the bikes from Minsks and the emergency Yamaha, to an XR250, CRF250 and XBR125. Then we loaded up and got underway amid the drizzle and wet roads. There was an early mechanical stop after a few hundred yards when Phil's Yam mirror fell off, quickly sorted by a mechanic that whizzed across 6 lanes of early morning traffic with a replacement.
We then settled in for a highway slog to Hai Phong which is a good 100km away. That might not sound much in UK terms but vietnamese highways are different. It's perfectly acceptable to lead your herd of cattle across the 4 lane highway, or cycle the wrong way up it (hard shoulder or outside lane) so traffic doesn't move too fast and you have to be seriously on your guard. No daydreaming here if you want to stay alive.
Riding a Honda XR felt all familiar again even though this one is not a model I ever owned. I used to have an XR650R, and after today I fancy another after this trip, maybe not the 650 though. It would have to be as well as my VTR and something cheap. I've also learned a lot on this trip about what you need and what you don't, and what gear works and what doesn't. My Kriega stuff has been excellent, especially the little kube pocket that velcros to the rucksack strap or to the handlebars on my bike. I have an olympus tough camera which I keep in there that can be used underwater, and that has a carabiner attached so I can whip it out quickly and take photos or get some pictures in the move. I'm happy to share my learnings if anyone is considering a trip like this. There's loads of stuff we brought which hasn't been used once, and that's equally as important.
My XR250
Phil's Yam YBR125
Del's CRF250
The downside to our open face helmets is that on the highway sections you’re a lot more exposed to the dust which trucks and buses kick up. Me and Del were wearing V12 goggles which are designed as shatter-proof eye protection for military and airsoft (paintball) usage. They did a great job but the downside is that they do let some air through and that includes dust on the highway. My advice to anyone doing a similar trip would be by all means use an open faced lid, it will be better 90% of the time, but take some proper motocross goggles or a visor for the times you’re on the main routes or it’s raining.
One thing I'm in favour of over here are the traffic lights that have a display that counts down seconds until the lights change. I was thinking as we rode along that we should do the same in the UK, but then I visited London and found they had started to put something similar on certain junctions. It helps people time their way through the lights and on the bike you know whether you've got time to faff or if the lights are changing in a few seconds.
We stopped for fuel then made it to Hai Phong just as the ferry was boarding. When I say ferry I actually mean small boat. They wouldn't let us take the bikes on the ferry we had booked because bikes like these are so much bigger than a typical Vietnam scooter, so we had to take the first ferry on foot with our luggage, and they would send the bikes on the next one two hours later.
The ferry trip took about an hour, and as crammed as it was on the boat it was quite relaxing watching the coast pass us by. Initially it took half an hour to get past the shipping port itself, with countless huge container ships docked. Then it was out to more open water and gradually the industry subsided and became coastal scenery. For the most part as we neared Cat Ba island the scenery was mountains covered in greenery. The ferry terminal was a half-built breeze-block and corrugated roof construction without the two largest walls. There was a nice lady there who ran the ferry ‘shop’ which was a couple of tables piled high with various types of packaged food. We relaxed and ordered some coffee and ‘Pho Noodle’ (think ‘pot noodle’ but just about edible) which was the best thing on offer. We spoke to a lad from California whose blacked out bike is in the photos, he is three countries into a south East Asia tour and is doing it on a shoestring budget. He was planning to sell the bike in the next few days when he reached Hanoi, and estimated it would have cost him less than $100 to ‘own’ it for the last several weeks.
The Ferry port:
The Ferry 'shop' - source of great Pho Noodle
After a couple of hours, during which we started to doubt whether the bikes would arrive as promised, the ferry turned up. Lo and behold the bikes were on board, so we unloaded them, inner-tubed the panniers back on then made our way onto Cat Ba island.
Initial impressions were that it was a very quiet but scenic place, the roads were mostly empty and we had a bit of confusion finding our way to Cat Ba town where we were booked into a hotel.
At one point we were forced to turn back when we found the road blocked off due to explosion activity ahead. Since the area we were in was quite far North Vietnam I expect this was mining rather than land mines, I don't believe the war made it this far north.
So to recap slightly, during the day prior to this one Phil’s Minsk had expired with a broken pushrod. Well today he broke his Yamaha. It started having fuel starvation problems where it would just cut out and lose power. We stopped a couple of times en route to Cat Ba town and each time it took longer than the last to get going again. Pinky had to get busy with the tools, always assisted by random locals who would just appear out of the nearest bush each time the Yam broke down.
To relieve the boredom during the numerous pitstops Del found a new use for his pannier rack:
By the time we made any real progress it was getting late in the day and we were treated to fantastic sunset views around the coast. We kept the speeds right down, no need to rush with very few km to go and scenery such as this.
We made it to Cat Ba town, and had a childish giggle when we saw that our hotel was called the Hung Long Hotel. However it was lovely and clean, and had an incredible view right out over the harbour.
We checked in, then met back outside in the carpark with a beer, trying fruitlessly to fix the Yamaha but the problem persisted. When the daylight started to wane properly we called it a day on the Yam and decided to let Pinky try again tomorrow since we hadn’t planned to be riding anywhere. Instead, we wanted to catch a boat out to Ha Long Bay, which to be one of the highlights of the trip.
Amongst the photos is a view from the balcony…a stunning sunset if ever I saw one, across the bay and with numerous floating bars in the harbour.
