Vac pipe !Mike TW9 wrote:Arghh, put tank & silencer back on & she started, but only idling on full choke, no real power. And conked out after a while. Doesn't want to start at all now. Currently am scratching my head but don't think it's nits. Any ideas? (For clarifiocation: About the bike, not the itch!)
I hadn't connected it & was thinking I may end up stripping it back down to find and address the issue. Now it's just a matter of putting the belly fairing bit back on and fixing the rear bit that holds the silencer back on (I took it off in preparation for sealing a small leak at the connection with silicon, but put it back on to test the bike. The metal strap that goes round the can is proving tricky to reattach as you have to stretch it really tight before the bolt lines up with the hole. I'm a few mm short so far). 
No, I'm talking about the stiff metal strap (mounted on rubber) that goes around the silencer and bolts on beside the rear foot peg. The bolt has a lug on the outer side which I think is for securing bungee straps. It pushes through from the outside, first through the frame, then the near end of the strap. It seems you then need to get the strap really tight around the can and have the can in just the right position to get the hole in the other end of the strap lined up with the bolt, something I've tried & failed to do so far.agentpineapple wrote:if you're talking about the mikalor clamp that secures the linkpipe to the main headers(as this is where the small air leak was), then I never fully undo them, just loosen them off and slide them down or up the pipe where required. you might have made life tricky for yourself now dude.....
good luck and let us know how you get on.....
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Most folks have made the vacuum pipe mistake the first time so your not on your own there. 
I'd say they weren't much more than finger tight, but no worries, it's been an excellent educational experience for me and I'm now feeling much more confident with my motorcycle mechanics. I'd already read about the easy vac pipe error (just like AP warned me about the plastic tray bit I forgot to slot under the front carb) and thought I might be a tube short when I did it, but the nozzle it goes on was hidden behind the drip flap and the pipe had slipped down out of sight too.cybercarl wrote:Sorry for the late reply and missing your call earlier Mike. Not long got back in from work and just had dinner. IIRC you should have either a 1/8th to 1/4mm slack when twisting the throttle. Not important but that's what the manual says. Those 10mm cam cover bolts...where they totaly loose, as in I'd missed them in the rush or just a little loose.
(:-})
Cheers for the adviceagentpineapple wrote:ok, you're talking about the exhaust hanging strap, they can be a bit fiddly, it might be that when you siliconed the exhaust join, the angle of the exhaust has moved slightly, making the lining up and threading of the bolt more awkward, work the strap around the can, to roughly the position it needs to be, holding the bolt in your right hand, then with your left hand move the exhaust into position, once lined up, thread the bolt thru the hole.
the other option will be to undo the rear footpegs from the rear subframe (only 2 bolts), attach the exhaust and hanger loosely the the footpeg, and then bolt the rear footpeg back onto the rear subframe. and tighten everything up...
good luck mate.....
The first option is essentially what I've been doing. The second might just be the strategy I've been looking for, I'll maybe give that a try tomorrow or Fri. Having worked on the bike Sat, Sun, Mon and Tues, I've declared Wed a day of rest 
Thanks Mac, I'll follow your advice and let you know how I get on. Cheers!MacV2 wrote:Mike TW9
''And if I still have Mac's attention I'm told you also know a thing or two about where to get the correct part to make after- market diode indicators flash at the right speed?''
You have a PM Dude.
