What fails on a cct?

[Watty]

Thats what I said earlier, but used less words

true........... Just not sure Phil is getting the message



STOPPER MOD






NOW

That should do it Al

[Phil_H]

Thats what I said earlier, but used less words

true........... Just not sure Phil is getting the message



STOPPER MOD






NOW

Thats what I said earlier, but used less words

true........... Just not sure Phil is getting the message



STOPPER MOD






NOW

That should do it Al

Ha ha, point taken

[sirch345]

Phil,
Well done to you for getting your hands on an old CCT, pulling it apart so you can get a better understanding on it's design and how it works

When I had a CCT fail on my Firestorm, I decided to pull the CCT apart and see where the spring had broken, and while I was there take a few photo's. I had the Stopper Mod fitted so my engine didn't suffer any damage, plus I was able to ride the bike home. I was not expecting to see where this one had broken. Take a look for yourself.





I think you have got the message about doing the Stopper Mod the Stopper Mod will give you exactly what you want.

Stopper Mod link:-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=19416

There is a way you can lock off the standard CCT, but you have to make allowances for the front one, as that backs off the cam chain tension at approx. 3,000rpm and re-tightens back up again when the rev's come back down. The rear CCT works slightly different to the front one.

Chris.

[Phil_H]

Thanks for the pics - what an unusual place to snap, I would have thought it'd snap at one of the tight bends at the end!

I'm intrigued to know how they tighten or back off at around 3k. As far as I can see the only way the plunger will retract at all is if it's 'jiggled' without the spring. With the spring fitted, there was no way that I could see for the plunger to move in at all...?!
Have you viewed the movement on a running bike with blanking stud removed?

Cheers Phil

[sirch345]

Thanks for the pics - what an unusual place to snap, I would have thought it'd snap at one of the tight bends at the end!

I'm intrigued to know how they tighten or back off at around 3k. As far as I can see the only way the plunger will retract at all is if it's 'jiggled' without the spring. With the spring fitted, there was no way that I could see for the plunger to move in at all...?!
Have you viewed the movement on a running bike with blanking stud removed?

Cheers Phil

The majority of the springs do seem to break at the other end of the spring, and as you mention on the bent bit that sits in the plunger worm slot.

You're not the first to ask about how the CCT's back off, as like yourself others have found it near impossible to do when you're holding one in your hand with a non failed spring fitted. My opinion is, it's partly the tension on it from the cam chain, and partly the vibes that transfer to the CCT plunger when the engine is running, being revved or when the bike is being ridden.

I have covered this in more detail before, but the gist of it is, I spent many, many hours (more than I care to admit) studying the Firestorms standard CCT's. I basically set up a way to monitor the movements of the CCT when the bike is running from the inside to the outside of the CCT's body. This gave me the opportunity to find out if the tension on both front and rear cam chains changed when the engine rev's increased or decreased.

Chris.

[Phil_H]

Fascinating info.
It's folks like yourself, with dogged determination to solve inherent weaknesses in a product and come out with effective, workable solutions that we all need to thank

Next week; stopper mod.
I have found a damaged extension from a 3/8 socket set that measures 8mm so will work a treat. Should be decent steel, chrome plated too ;)

Phil

[sirch345]

Cheers Phil Good luck with the CCT mod

Chris.

[Geordie]

Be careful if you take apart an auto cct and intend to fit it again .. I believe there is a specific number of turns to charge up the spring inside so it exerts the correct pressure on the plunger. Call me cynical and I will stand to be lambasted !! but I do fear more is made out of these cct issues than it warrants .. that said I have also modified mine to manuals :-/
Also dont forget that there should be a metal shaped cap on the end of the plunger where it contacts the chain guide. This fits over the rubber block at the end of the plunger. New ccts I believe dont come with these so you need to take them off your old ones. When I did the mod to manuals I took out my ccts and one of them didnt have the metal cap on and hence the vibration had chewed the end off the rubber with obvious potential resultant problems .. !
If youre going to manuals take both valve covers off and measure and rotate the engine and measure again the chain deflection between sprockets as described in sirches guide. Its important to get this right.
G

[Phil_H]

Cheers Geordie, I don't intend fully stripping a cct that I'm going to use - having stripped the experimental one, I reckon much trouble could be experienced reassembling the spring correctly

Last night: carbs rejetted with 48 pilots, 150/152 mains, valve clearances & stopper mod to front cyl.
Tonight the rear.
The 3/8 extension bar cut down fits a treat ;)

[VTRDark]

Why such small mains? What needles are you using and what clip position? 150's would be around the right size if running an open airbox setup with a HRC jet kit.

(:-})

[Phil_H]

The bike is a Vara 1000 so smaller carbs & softer tune.

Here is a recent dyno with stock 42 pilots & 158/160 mains, needles raised.5mm (stock mains are 168/170), otherwise stock needles/filter/airbox fitted.

Edit, dyno won't attach. I put a post in the dyno section a while back.
Will try and post it up later ;)



Ah, there we go

[lloydie]

Binned