Disaster has struck. !!!!!!

[BrianC]

Having fought with exhaust header nuts and come away unscathed

Then having toiled to remove all the rear suspension links using heat brute force etc and getting them all freed off.

So whilst waiting for all my rebuild bearings I then turned my attention to the starter motor electrical connection and of course, given the rubber cover was like a colander, the contract nut was absolutely corroded away - only option was to dremel it off. - success!!!!

Then as mr haynes says, undo the two studs and withdraw the motor - no f@@@ing chance. So piece of wood and the hammer and tap tap away from the left hand side of the bike. More tap tap tapping then some movement - great - NOT!!!! Snapped a piece of the end plate that gives against the block, so more copious acf, plus fax etc then more tap tat tapping and we are moving - great - NOT!!!!

Basically the flange which holds the o ring has sheared off the starter motor body !!!!!

But of course I can't remove the starter because although the body moves the shaft is not so I can't withdraw the motor.

The long bolts won't undo at all, so all that's on my mind at moment is to grind through the starter shaft to get the motor out then see where it leads me.

But all suggestions and tips are welcomed - is it easy to get to the other side???

So I have left it and come in - deflated and despondent !!!!

Help !!!!!!!!!!

[MacV2]

OOOPPPPSSSS!

I'd love to come round & offer some help but it's a bit far to go.

Take some pic's & post up so we can see & have a good laug...er I mean offer constructive comments.

[BrianC]

Looks like I'll be taking more bits off !!!!!!!!

Just reading up looks like left hand cover and alternator etc will have to come off so I can get at the starter gear

Just not sure hence request for help

[lumpyv]

is the big agent pineapple still doing a line in refurbed starter motors??

may be of use to you ??

[BrianC]

I'd spoken to Marty already but I picked up what looks like a really good one from ebay - ex fireblade, so I was going to donate this piece of crap to him anyway - now looks like he will just get some of the bits !!!!

Just need to know how to kept the bloody thing off now

[BrianC]

Just to satisfy Mac's perverse humour re my misfortune !!!!!!!

[lloydie]

How the feck did you manage to do that on that side ?
Your meant to remove the two 10mm bolts from the mounts on the other side to remove the motor .



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[BrianC]

Removed the two bolts as I should have,

And the starter wouldn't move - hence tapping it from that side and that was the result - the flange must be seized in the engine casing.

The rest of the body will now withdraw, but because the shaft isn't moving, it wont come away - bet this is a new one!!!!

[lloydie]

"New one"!! Yes even if you can get to it from the other side there's not much room .
Good luck getting it out tho


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[BrianC]

I suspect I will have to attack it from the starter side but some of the debris will fall through so it will have to be cleaned.

Is there oil there? Ie will I have to drop the oil to take that left hand cover off.

I read a thread by tony mon re taking the alternator off and get says you have to take the front cct out - I can't see why ?

I'm also nervous about the tools to get the bolt and the flywheel off.

But to be honest what I want to do is to get the back end rebuilt but waiting for bearings. I have so much of thus in bits might as well put it all in bits !!!!!

This is the hardest thing I have done!!!!!

[agentpineapple]

never heard of a motor being jammed in like that before, normally a gentle tap with a rubber hammer, and they drop out. even if you cut the shaft, the end section will still be jammed, I wonder if heating it up will help release it, i'm no expert tho mate. it's hard to imagine how it got jammed tho, as the engines oil lubricates the shaft at that end.
in reference to the cheap starter motor off of ebay, it's still worth taking it apart and cleaning it mate, at least you'll know if the internals are in good condition, you just can't tell by looking at the condition of the outside of the motor.
good luck mate, let us know how you get on.

[BrianC]

Yeah it's a sod

I suspect the spigot on the starter has corroded into the engine casing - where the o ring seals normally

I think I will take the left hand cover off , remove the alternator etc then see if I can push the shaft back then chip away at the corroded bit

[tony.mon]

It's not a major problem.
You're going to have to push if you can't pull.
First, make sure that you can see that the RH end mounting block (where the bolts go through) are not corroded or cold-welded onto the mounting castings on the crankcase.
Yous should be able to see a little gap as you lever it away from the crankcases- not too much of course.
Take off the tank and airbox, then turn the engine to the correct tdc so that the front cylinder is at tdc with teh front cam lobes pointing upwards and away from each other- just as if you were going to check the front valve clearances.
Next, remove the alternator cover, and the alternator. This requires an extractor, there's a thread on here with instructions of how to use a MAN truck wheel bolt for only a few pounds.
Once that's out of the way, remove the clutch slave cylinder, remembering to either remove the clutch lever, or, as I prefer, whip the slave off amd cable tie a largish socket into the piston to prevent it being pushed out by the spring and allowing air in.
Next, take off the sprocket cover and you can then remove the alternator inner casting.
Can't remember which order these bits come off in, but you can pull out the shaft holding the larger and smaller starer transfer sprockets in place using a magnet- it's just a push fit.
Now, with the tank, and airbox off you will be able to see the front cam tensioner. Slacken it off, if a manual, remove it, if standard, and be slightly ashamed of yourself for not changing it.
Now undo the lower end of the front cylinder cam tensioner blade- you will need a twlve- pointed socket to do this- I found it cheaper to buy a cheap set rather then a single one- go figure.

You will then be able to remove the transfer gear with a bit of wriggling and a bit of brute force.

Once that's out of the way, you can see the end of the starter motor shaft, so tap it with a drift (bit of wood is good) and you should be able to remove it.
Then rebuild.


Take it easy, and it's not a biggie.
Half a day start to finish.

[Watty]

Bloody hell mate wtf has gone on there Heat via blow torch ( not oxy bottles ) and Plus gas are your friends here! Warm the housing not the remains of the starter and use snipe nose mole grips on the starter boss. The mole grips will help dissipate heat from the starter remains ( if left on whilst heating ) allowing the housing to expand away from it! If you'd been closer I'd have gladly assisted! Good luck

[BrianC]

Thanks tony

I had just sent you a pm - but you have answered me in the main thread.

I already have my new cct s. ready to fit so maybe I need to bite the bullet !!!!! And get these done

I have so much it bits ie the rear end suspension, sprockets, chain etc - that I think I need to get some flack built !!!!

Just a question - I presume I need to drop the oil before I follow your instructions ?