Pilot screw broke

[sirch345]

Thank you for that information E.Marquez and for the link, pictures certainly help. I'll keep that in mind when I have a look at my Storm's air screws,

Chris.

[VTRDark]

Sorry Chris I have to correct you that's twice now They are fuel screws not air. It's more common for two stokes to have air screws and they are usually located on the top of the carb/airbox side. Fuel screws are usually located on the bottom like the VTR. I believe you know this and are getting confused with the old days.

QUESTION EIGHT: HOW CAN I TELL A FUEL SCREW FROM AN AIR SCREW?
It is possible for a four-stroke to have an air screw. Many vintage thumpers used two-stroke carbs— and thus have air screws. Here is how you can tell if the carburetor has a fuel mixture or air mixture screw. (1) Look at the carburetor from the side that has the mixture screw on it. (2) Draw an imaginary line down the carb's slide to visually split the carburetor into two. (3) If the screw is located on the airbox side of the carburetor, it is an air screw. (4) If the screw is situated on the engine side of the carburetor, it is a fuel screw.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 14#p238528

(:-})

[sirch345]

Cheers Carl for putting me straight again If the truth be known I would probably refer to it as a mixture screw in the old days but I'll try to remember to call it the fuel screw Yes in my head I realise how the fuel screws work, further out equals richer, further in leaner, which is the opposite to an air screw, right

Chris.

[darkember]

Carl one question I do have after reading you extensive thread on the pilot screws. Nice read btw

My question: When you have the bike warm and at fast idle which screw do you set first front or rear? Would it be possible to setup an inconsistency if you set one against the other while the other may already be incorrect?

[VTRDark]

First off Malc apologies going off topic slightly here.

Second...Good question and they should be treated individually either way. Actually after adjusting one you may find yourself re-adjusting the other one as it's difficult to hear a change in note with two cylinders running. I have heard of people disconnecting one cylinder while adjusting the other to make it easier to listen. With running on one cylinder though, it's going to be easier for the engine to cut out/stall at low revs so there comes the annoyance of having to hit the starter button more often.

In an ideal world one would have a Multimeter that has an inductive coupler (IC) (HT pickup) and RPM range meter so one can then see visually the RPM's of each cylinder rising and falling but make sure it's compatible with 2 cylinder engines.
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.a ... ctid=10135

The front is the main cylinder and for some reason more clear to hear a change in exhaust note and revs dropping or rising, most likely because it's leaner, so I tend to adjust the front first and then move onto the rear. Do a quick blip test and then tweak both. The inconsistencies arise then with not knowing which carb to adjust if showing lean or rich on the blip test so I try to adjust both. So for example I feel I need to lean off half a turn I then turn each carb a 1/4 turn, as I am not going by ear now but fine tuning according to the blip test.

(:-})

[darkember]

Thanks for that carl. Now that is a nice instrument. dribble dribble

[popkat]

Well all efforts so far failed, might try to hammer (gently) a needle into the brass, it's not going to work but got nothing to lose now..

Has anyone got a good set of carbs ? preferable standard but can swap bits over if need be.

[Kurt999]

Hi popkat, did you get sorted for carbs? If not I have a good set that you can have for the cost of postage. I've had them on a running bike and they've been stored with no fuel in them. The TPS has a crack in the body but still works. All standard jetting (48 pilots from memory) and both the fuel screws are free moving.

I'm out of the country for a few days shortly, so there may be a little delay getting them to you

[popkat]

Hi popkat, did you get sorted for carbs? If not I have a good set that you can have for the cost of postage. I've had them on a running bike and they've been stored with no fuel in them. The TPS has a crack in the body but still works. All standard jetting (48 pilots from memory) and both the fuel screws are free moving.

I'm out of the country for a few days shortly, so there may be a little delay getting them to you

Thanks for the offer, that's very kind of you but I got a set and have now got the bike running.

Keep hold of them as I'm sure someone else will need some before long, as these bikes get older there will be more need especially if they've been laid up.
If I get another one in that's in need I know where they are