what have you done to your "bike" today

[kev64]

I have two different set of carbs,one set I bent the prong,the other I elongated the holes
I did have a problem with my meter to start with, didn't get the right readings,
But 200 ohms is way off ?
Don't know, but Haynes manuals ? what does it say in the workshop manual?

[kenmoore]

When I checked my VTR early on in the piece It read 890!

I set it at 520 and then after some engine tweaks I set it at 500 and that is where it has stayed.

I think the optimal setting depends on what you have done to your bike.

I think that the more that you do to the engine the lower that setting on the T.P.S.

This forum has many long term owners and I am curious as to what they run their T.P.S at and how that correlates to their engine mods.

Start with 520 OHMS resistance and see how you go cobber!

[Varastorm]

I checked the Haynes & the Honda workshop manual & they both say to use the lower pins on the TPS when setting it to 500 ohm's

Hopefully Carl will chime in.

I knew something was up, as there was no way I could get it to read 500 ohm's & use the two slotted holes to bolt it on, slotting the holes or bending tabs wouldn't help either. It was way out.

If I held the TPS so it read 500 ohm's on the carb frame there wasn't enough TPS movement to allow the butterflies to reach full throttle

The throttle only opened around half before the TPS hit it's stop.

It does behave better ticking over now & blipping the throttle, not been for a ride yet but will update

I have set this before but can't remember any problems like this before, perhaps I did it wrong last time

[popkat]

Popped my carbs off again today to check a coolant hose (all ok), while there I thought I'd check my TPS setting, got no reading, just a 1 on the meter, got some old carbs out that were on one I'm doing up for a customer, those were the ones that read about 1135 and I pulled down to 800 ish which was the lowest it would go, anyway got a reading so I know my meter's working. Unbolted the tps off my carbs, turned it a little and heard a faint crack, pulled it off and found it had been glued back together and it had broken off again, basically the tps wasn't working. when I got this bike the plugs were sooty black, the chokes weren't screwed in so were permanently on, the previous owner had nothing but praise for his mechanic that did his cars as well as bikes, well his mechanic was a lying Richard broke them, bodged them and I really feel now he got it running best he could and the owner got rid asap. It ran ok when I picked it up, but I've not ridden it yet and not started it since doing work on it. Should be running by Tuesday and I'll be taxing it beginning of the month so hoping it'll be ok now, I fitted the tps from the other carbs and set it to 665 which was the lowest it would go, that'll do me for now.
This bike has just 7000 miles on the clock.

[lloydie]

I've had a broken one glued back together in the past , but alway replaced them with a good one .
Maybe it was a factory mod lol

[popkat]

Well that was a surprise, fix and fire up a storm that's not been used for 10 years and it runs sweet, get mine started today for the first time in just a few months and it's lumpy, surging and petrol pissing out of rear carb coolant leaking from the bottom pipe on the expansion bottle too. I've spent the day fitting new tyres, hugger, forks spring and painted fork lowers, fitted front mudguard extender (drilled through my important middle finger ) radiators fitted and filled, full tank of fuel in it as well.. I'll have to go back in to work tomorrow and get the carbs off again to see what's gone on, the carbs were all good before, gave the float bowl a good tap in case the float was stuck but no joy, looks like it's coming from where the float bowl joins but hard to look close as it stings the eyes and stinks a lot.
Last couple of days I've been there 11 hours each day, doing work then my own bike, hopefully I'll get Monday off and go for little a ride if the bloody thing works.

[agentpineapple]

ragged the tits off of it around wales......

[popkat]

It runs with no leaks, took carbs off again and removed float bowls, couldn't see anything but blew through with some air, seems to have worked I'll try and get out for a quick spin on it tomorrow to see what it's like.

Who know where the small vent pipe at the back of the tank comes from ?, I know the big one is for water drainage. Every time I picked up my full tank fuel would pour out of the small vent, move the tank gently and it would stop, just wondered where it goes inside the tank and how it picks up fuel. Not had this happen on any VTR tank before, but also not had to remove a full to the brim tank before.

[Watty]

Yesterday morning got her mot'd ( pass with no advisories ) only 650 miles since last one! Shocking , then caned her to Devils Bridge and back Today, washed and caressed her .

[8541Hawk]

Who know where the small vent pipe at the back of the tank comes from ?, I know the big one is for water drainage. Every time I picked up my full tank fuel would pour out of the small vent, move the tank gently and it would stop, just wondered where it goes inside the tank and how it picks up fuel. Not had this happen on any VTR tank before, but also not had to remove a full to the brim tank before.

Well I know it is in the tank somewhere....lol
The big one is easy as you can see it when you open the fill cap.

As far as I know the only way to find where the small one lives is to cut the tank apart.

Which leads to the true answer of, I don't have a clue.....lol
All I know is don't slosh the tank around while full as it will piss fuel out of the vent

[MacV2]

It runs with no leaks, took carbs off again and removed float bowls, couldn't see anything but blew through with some air, seems to have worked I'll try and get out for a quick spin on it tomorrow to see what it's like.

Who know where the small vent pipe at the back of the tank comes from ?, I know the big one is for water drainage. Every time I picked up my full tank fuel would pour out of the small vent, move the tank gently and it would stop, just wondered where it goes inside the tank and how it picks up fuel. Not had this happen on any VTR tank before, but also not had to remove a full to the brim tank before.

I believe that the smaller of the two hoses is the overflow pipe. If you slosh fuel over the neck when filling up thats where it goes...normally down the pipe & out by the belly pan L/H side...

When you have the tank off & tip it up the fuel will come up past the cap & out via the overflow...Mind did the other day, suddenly wondered why I was kneeing in petrol...then I twigged...

[MacV2]

Update to that...According to the workshop manual... The fat one is a ''drain tube'' the thin one is ''Breather tube '' ...

[tony.mon]

Facts at my fingertips again:
Here's one I cut up earlier-

[tony.mon]

I had an interesting day.
I still have the leaking crankcase problem, even though it's been welded three times and then covered over with two part epoxy Liquid Metal.
So today I wanted to pull the engine out in preparation for stripping it and slipping all the internals into a new (to me) set of cases.

But I wanted to know exactly where the leak was so that I could take a view whether it was worth getting it welded up inside and outside and then seeing if it held, because getting low mileage usable cases is difficult. More welding would be option 2, new ones cost more than £2500 so option three is out of the window!

I couldn't see it with the thermo hsg and pipework in place. So I connected up some hoses that just poked up vertically above the filler neck so that water would stay in the engine, and I could see the site of the leak.

It wasn't coming out of the weld, which was below the head to cases interface (gasket line). It might have been coming form the coolant stub pipe, there's on on each head, held on by two 8mm bolts with an o ring. Replaced O-ring, wasn't that.
But the leak appeared to be at the gasket, at the rear of the cylinder.

Firstly I checked to make , sure that I hadn't missed tightening a head bolt, but no; they were all good and tight.

So I drained it again, front head off and got a straight edge on the crankcase surface and head. The head was skimmed when I had the oversize valves put in, and that's nice and flat; it hasn't even run with those heads on.
But the crankcase has distorted from the welding, and is now approx .5mm lower right at the rear of the front cylinder.

So as a quick fix I've knocked up a bit more two part Liquid Metal and lightly fitted the oiled head without a gasket, the liquid metal should set nice and flat but a little proud of the surrounding case surface; I'll flat it off by eye with some wet and dry once it has gone off.

The gasket is reusable, so let's see if I can get it to hold coolant....

Otherwise, engine out, strip to bare cases, have the cases machined until it's flat on the front one, deck the cases so that the rear one's the same height, with reference to the pistons, rebuild and get going.

It's a lot of faffing about, but hey, apart from that I only had a bit of gardening to do.
And the wife did that, in the end, so all good.

Nothing else can be done today (oh, I also painted a nice neat under-the-undertray "invisible" exhaust hanger bracket I made last week as well) so a few beers and watch Monaco F1, I guess.

[Wicky]

Got a couple of replacement keys cut as one get bent while in filler cap when tank bag plonked on it. Thankfully I was able to straighten it enough to operate the ingnition.

Then a few days later went and bought a second bike as VTR needs some dismantling and sprucing up with refurbished subframes, fairing subframe, suspension linkages regreased etc. So another V-twin lite pictured on its first off-road excursion - as its pines for the open verdant fields where folk play ye olde national pastime of Crucket.



PO a bit naive on home mechanicing and relied on dealer for servicing - So need to go through to it with a fine toothcomb to get it up to scratch - finding things like missing bodywork screws, a gear lever that needed straightening and plug-pins missing in the brake calipers. But overall very good nick for a 2001, with 29,000 that had lived in London for past 5 years. A bit of detective work established its provenence prior to eBay http://tinyurl.com/q7w9njq > http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/sale-wante ... -sale.html. Just getting use to tippy toeing and wondering how riders of AfricaTwins/ KTMs cope - Platform boots??

http://www.xrv.org.uk/forums/sale-wante ... -sale.html