recievedmy chain and sprockets today, big sdhout out to M&P's as there delivery was stupidly quick. does anyone know how many links the chain should be for a 15/41 setup??
also i want to give the bike an overhaul this week a i have a lift into work every day. i want to change my clutch plates as my clutch has been a bit sketchy since day 1. how difficult is it?? im pretty competent (sp) with bikes just never changed the clutch plates before. and does anyone recommend a set of clutch plates?? 90% of the time the bike is being ridden pretty hard so im after some tidy aftermarket 1's. cheers
2 questions regarding chain and clutch
102 links for the chain.
Clutch is easy enough, just got to make sure you drain all the coolant first, or else it will get into the motor. You can even get away with leaving the oil in when on side stand, but might as well drain and replace anyway.
Basically, fairing off, loosen rad, remove hoses from water pump, watch bright green stuff go everywhere, remove engine casing, and then its just a case of removing clutch spring bolts.
Remove the pushrod and note which end goes where.
Make a good note or photo how the plates are set up (as the top one sits differently), and check which way the small metal pressure spring thing goes - it's right at the back, no need to remove it really.
Replace plates and make sure they go back in the right order!
Reassemble in reverse order, making sure gasket is cleaned off and replaced with new one (you DID order a gasket - right?). When refilling the coolant, run the engine for a mo, then top it up again BEFORE putting faing back on.
The clutch slave cylinder might push itself out, so be careful not to pull the lever while things are apart and check the level AFTER all is back together.
Finally, don't blame me if it all goes horribly wrong
Don't forget to get a new gasket, the old one WILL break.
Kingster
Clutch is easy enough, just got to make sure you drain all the coolant first, or else it will get into the motor. You can even get away with leaving the oil in when on side stand, but might as well drain and replace anyway.
Basically, fairing off, loosen rad, remove hoses from water pump, watch bright green stuff go everywhere, remove engine casing, and then its just a case of removing clutch spring bolts.
Remove the pushrod and note which end goes where.
Make a good note or photo how the plates are set up (as the top one sits differently), and check which way the small metal pressure spring thing goes - it's right at the back, no need to remove it really.
Replace plates and make sure they go back in the right order!
Reassemble in reverse order, making sure gasket is cleaned off and replaced with new one (you DID order a gasket - right?). When refilling the coolant, run the engine for a mo, then top it up again BEFORE putting faing back on.
The clutch slave cylinder might push itself out, so be careful not to pull the lever while things are apart and check the level AFTER all is back together.
Finally, don't blame me if it all goes horribly wrong
Don't forget to get a new gasket, the old one WILL break.
Kingster
-
Paddockstand Ltd
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2006 4:13 pm
- Location: Grantham Lincolnshire
- Contact:
cheers for that guys thats a big help. havent actually ordered clutch plates yet but will deffo get a gasket when i do. just completely stripped the butt end of the bike and ive never seen so much gunk in my life. swingarm is being removed and polished although god knows why as im still having nightmares from when i polished the frame 
should hopefully be getting a shock very soon aswell so ill have the suspension sorted and i cooked the brake fluid on the weekend so thats gonna need changing. would it be worth chucking some DOT 5 in there as from what i have read it has a higher boiling point, i know ill have to completely clean out everything the fluid travels through but surely it will be a better option??
should hopefully be getting a shock very soon aswell so ill have the suspension sorted and i cooked the brake fluid on the weekend so thats gonna need changing. would it be worth chucking some DOT 5 in there as from what i have read it has a higher boiling point, i know ill have to completely clean out everything the fluid travels through but surely it will be a better option??
-
Stormin Ben
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 12:23 am
- Location: Birmingham
Dookie,
You're right there!!
Dot5 does indeed have a higher boiling point
HOWEVER
It is also a lot more hydroscopic (ie it absorbs water from its surroundings)
This means its great for race bikes that have the fluid changed every 1-2 meetings but an absolute dead loss on road bikes (unless you can be bothered!!)
XXX, how did you manage to boil your brake fluid?
I'd suggest getting some better/different pads if you're having that problem coz I've never managed it on road or track
You're right there!!
Dot5 does indeed have a higher boiling point
HOWEVER
It is also a lot more hydroscopic (ie it absorbs water from its surroundings)
This means its great for race bikes that have the fluid changed every 1-2 meetings but an absolute dead loss on road bikes (unless you can be bothered!!)
XXX, how did you manage to boil your brake fluid?
I'd suggest getting some better/different pads if you're having that problem coz I've never managed it on road or track
I've got an inferiority complex
But its not a very good one!
But its not a very good one!
-
slim_boy_fat
- Posts: 151
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:53 pm
- Location: Glasgow
Stormin Ben wrote:Dookie,
You're right there!!
Dot5 does indeed have a higher boiling point
HOWEVER
It is also a lot more hydroscopic (ie it absorbs water from its surroundings)
This means its great for race bikes that have the fluid changed every 1-2 meetings but an absolute dead loss on road bikes (unless you can be bothered!!)
XXX, how did you manage to boil your brake fluid?
I'd suggest getting some better/different pads if you're having that problem coz I've never managed it on road or track
No no no thrice NO
There seems to be a lot of misunderstanding with brake fluid.
The DOT number of it does not necessarily relate to the temp grade of the fluid.
DOT 5 is NOT hydroscopic, all others ARE. DOT 5 is a silicon base fluid. The problem with it is the water does not mix with the fluid and creates a bubble of water which will heat and turn to gas, causing problems.
There can also be problems with corrosion with DOT 5 due to the water lying in the lines. DOT 5 silicone fluid works well in very low temp environments i.e. -10 or less.
I use DOT 4 ATE Super Blue Fluid. Has got a high temp dry and wet BP. Its not the absolute best but its pretty close and only about £10 per litre as opposed to £50 for the Castrol SRF etc.
-edited for typo's-
Last edited by slim_boy_fat on Thu Apr 20, 2006 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's here.........
im using EBC HH sintered pads and all the other braking components seem to be in prerfect working order so i assume it has to be the fluid. has been fine until sun and mon ride which were both absolutely mental and caned the brakes along with everything else. the brake lever is now stupidly spongy which from what i was reading is caused by the brake fluid boiling. may just try a better quality DOT 3/4 first and see if that sorts the problem out. they definetly got slowly spongier throughout sun and monday and it wasnt a sudden loss of braking if that helps to find the problem.Stormin Ben wrote:Dookie,
You're right there!!
Dot5 does indeed have a higher boiling point
HOWEVER
It is also a lot more hydroscopic (ie it absorbs water from its surroundings)
This means its great for race bikes that have the fluid changed every 1-2 meetings but an absolute dead loss on road bikes (unless you can be bothered!!)
XXX, how did you manage to boil your brake fluid?
I'd suggest getting some better/different pads if you're having that problem coz I've never managed it on road or track
and why didnt someone stop me from polishing my swinger
forgot how tediously boring it is and ive only done about 2 hours worth, will get some progress pics up shortly-
slim_boy_fat
- Posts: 151
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:53 pm
- Location: Glasgow
As stated above get some ATE super blue.
Check the link for whats out there. I get mine from Eurocar parts
http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml
Check the link for whats out there. I get mine from Eurocar parts
http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid.shtml
It's here.........
-
Stormin Ben
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 12:23 am
- Location: Birmingham
slim_boy_fat wrote:No no noStormin Ben wrote: Dot5 does indeed have a higher boiling point
DOT 5 is NOT hydroscopic, .
OopsEr, that was what was what I meant!!
I knew it was worse WRT loss of performance due to water but obviously not quite the mechanics of how!
That explains it then!!!XXX-rated wrote: im using EBC HH sintered pads
Its the reason I removed my HH's and lobbed them in the bin!!
None of the ones I've used since then have had the problem
However, I can't help but wonder if the disks you're using could also have contributed (Is my memory right in assuming you're using those VFR400 ones?)
I've got an inferiority complex
But its not a very good one!
But its not a very good one!
-
Paddockstand Ltd
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2006 4:13 pm
- Location: Grantham Lincolnshire
- Contact:
Clutch Plates
Oops missed that bit lol
Anyways when I get back in the morning I will give you a price on EBC clutches both std and race ;)
Anyways when I get back in the morning I will give you a price on EBC clutches both std and race ;)
-
firestorm_al
- Site Admin
- Posts: 755
- Joined: Mon May 20, 2002 9:56 am
- Location: Aberdeen (Scotland - UK)
- Contact:
xxx,
If your brakes feel spoungy then the first thing i'd do is make sure that all the pistons in your callipers are free to move and that you shold be able to push them back in with finger pressure alone. If they are stick they cive them a good clean with some brake fluid and cotton buds but make sure you don't pump them out too far when you are cleaning them.
Al.
If your brakes feel spoungy then the first thing i'd do is make sure that all the pistons in your callipers are free to move and that you shold be able to push them back in with finger pressure alone. If they are stick they cive them a good clean with some brake fluid and cotton buds but make sure you don't pump them out too far when you are cleaning them.
Al.
-
Paddockstand Ltd
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Sat Apr 08, 2006 4:13 pm
- Location: Grantham Lincolnshire
- Contact:
