OK ive fitted my new cam chain tensioners following all the info i could find on here...front went fine but when installing the rear it didnt feel right.... and was touching blade inside engine even before i un-wound it...front wasnt like that so i guess i hadnt got engine in right position when doing rear cylinder...hmmm...refit all and hope for the best then... i wound engine round with socket to check all was ok and positive i heard a click that sounded like cam chain jumped a tooth:(...wip of the rear valve cover and wind engine around to get to timing spec in haynes....sure enough with cams as stated and RT mark aligned one of the marks on sprockets isnt flush with head as it should be..DOH!...looks like its 1 tooth out....starting to get dark and the chilled Stella in the fridge is calling so covers and tank back on and will attack it first thing...but...
Whats the best thing to do...gona get front cover off and check all timing while im on... but i think its just the rear that i messed up....haynes says just remove tensioner then cam sprocket and adjust and refit but sounds a little vague...any help welcome...please!!!...its gone be another scorching weekend and wana be riding not spanner twiddling
Cheers
Ian
Cumbria - It may be quiet but it has some of the best roads in the world :-)
oops, that'll teach ya, hope you have a torque wrench, some thread lock and some decent tools. You have to remove the top guide, three bolts (one is on the end, don't what ever you do drop it down inside the block else = buggered, the other two hold the cams shafts in, one in each, it's better to loosen all the bolts in a criss-cross so you don't warp them.). The cam wheel bolts are really short and will be thread locked in, don't drop these either down the block. When your lining up the marks on the cam wheels make sure you tension the chain so there is no slack at the front i.e. opposite side to the tensioner. Don't forget the thread lock on the cam wheel bolts on re-assembly. Best thing to do is buy a workshop manual or take it to a dealer or if your near I'll come do it if your not sure.
Cheers for the reply Del....yes i have a torque wrench, manual etc i would not be going inside my engine if i wasnt properly kitted out.....them days of stripping down my moped with only a 12mm socket and an adjustable spanner are now long gone thank god
Ok so i actually have to remove the cam thats out of alignment to get it back inline ?....thats where the Haynes is a little vague....its leading me to believe that you can just remove tensioner to give some slack...then remove cam sprocket....turn the cam so when the sprockets back on and tension re-appled both marks line up ?? ....when the RT mark is aligned with crankcase notch and the cams are facing thus / \ ( lobes top) then the exhuast sprocket is bang on its just the inlet sprocket which is very slightly out!
I am confident i can sort this as i am pretty good with the spanners, i just want to be sure of the best method to take before i end up taking off both cams and refitting it all when i can just do one thats out if possible...all help welcome and this is a warning for anyone else whos gona DIY there tensioners....be 100% sure you have timing right before removing tensioners....i thought i was.. but seemingly not...apart from that its a piece of cake .
CHeers
Ian
Cumbria - It may be quiet but it has some of the best roads in the world :-)
you don't actually have to take the cams out but to move the cam sprocket you have to remove the guide that sits above them and two of the bolts holding this on are ones that hold the cam journals in place. I would loosen all 8 bolts instead of just removing one as they are alloy. The cams won't fall out but you can't crank the engine obviously. I suppuse you could remove just the cam wheels but you would need 2 pairs of hand as they would both have to be lowered away from the top guide. Too many bits to hold.
When you put it back together I also put the cam wheel bolts in and nip them up then get the guide back on and all torqued up then do each cam wheel bolt after cranking the engine by hand as you can only get access one at a time and in only one position. If you don't put the cam guide back on or the tensioner in it'll just skip teeth again. Check ya valve clearances whilst you at it too.
When you line up the TDC marks you are getting the line and the text central in the window as oppossed to getting just the line in the middle? don't know what is says in a haynes manual.
Ahh right.....i will be attacking it again shortly.....with reference to lining up the TDC marks....i have been aligning the mark next to letters with the grove in the crankcase which is what it shows in the haynes...is this right ??
Ian
P.s. Go on be a good ride out for you up from Kent
Cumbria - It may be quiet but it has some of the best roads in the world :-)
Well....much sweat and spanner twirlling later i have checked and adjusted the cam timing on both front and back cylinders after replacing tensioners.....it seems that although i thought the front went smoothly that both the front and rear exhaust cams were out by 2-3 teeth after fitting tensioners!! even though the front one seemed to go ok...odd...maybe it was out before i started but i will never know as i didnt take valve covers off to check i had timing in right place before starting the job.....my advice to anyone thinking of doing this job....TAKE THE VALVE COVERS OFF AND GET TIMING RIGHT BEFORE TOUCHING THE TENSIONSERS...its a lot more work but you need the timing right or the engine aint gona be to happy and could well destroy itself...you have been warned!
Del...im interested to know what yer manual says about timing marks....when doing the rear it didnt seem to be much different with either the line central or text/line central....but on the front it did seem nearer with the text/line central so i left it at that for now...its only a smidge different but needs to be right...post your finding on here as maybe i need to come back 1 tooth on both cams on the front to get the line central......phew!
Cheers
Ian
Cumbria - It may be quiet but it has some of the best roads in the world :-)
I'll check but it sounds like your all ok now, 1 tooth out take the mark on the cam wheel way beyond where it should be.
When ya stick your coolant back fill it to the top of the rad, start the bike and warm it right up until the stat opens then rev it a few times (sort of blipin the throttle) to purge it all and then top it up with the engine still running and stick the cap on with it over flowing as you do it (well not pissing out - also before you start filling it up clamp the hose that goes to the expansion tank else you'll find that full too when you have finished). If you stop the engine your'll just trap air in it.
Blue Hylemar just around the journal cut-out on the heads - not all the way round too. (don't know what ya haynes-poo says)
As I said mate, the manual shows the mark as the text and line on the flywheel and not just the line. If you check it too it will be correct, when you use just the line on the flywheel then line on the cam wheels are slightly out of line with the heads but if you get the text and line in the inspection window then the line on the cam wheels will be exactly in line where they should be.
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...where abouts are you im in Cumbria ?