Dyno Down Under

[Twitchy]

Figured I should put the dyno chart in the "Dyno Chart" forum (same post in my build thread).

Dyno done yesterday, 24 degrees, 25% humidity. 3 runs, 25% throttle (red line), 50% throttle (green line), 100% throttle (darker blue line). The guy didn't explain the mid blue line even though it pops up in the power graph and the AFR graph.
This setup is Honda OEM air filter, FP main 180 front, FP main 185 rear, FP needle on 3rd clip (middle slot) front & rear, Honda OEM diaphragm springs, FP 50 pilots front & rear, screws at 2 turns front and 2 1/4 rear and balance done day before dyno.



Quite rich at the top end. I asked the guy in his expert opinion how far down he would go on the mains, and he said 4. Now I have got some OEM mains and I have read the FP and Keihin mains are measured the same way. Does that mean I can remove the FP mains and go to OEM Keihin while leaving the FP needle?

Any advice appreciated.

[Stephan]

Yes, FP uses the same keihin jets, you can use the originals. Not sure it is worth, you have nice flat curve, not often seen. Change on the mains will affect it everywhere. Maybe just change rear for 182.

[NZSpokes]

Yes, FP uses the same keihin jets, you can use the originals. Not sure it is worth, you have nice flat curve, not often seen. Change on the mains will affect it everywhere. Maybe just change rear for 182.

I would agree.

[Veturinkuljettaja]

That sure looks like a nice curve!

FP means FactoryPro brand, right? Have the slides been modified, number of lift holes front and back? What about TPS, 500ohms? How about the fuel consumption?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm looking for inspiration to open my carbs and do some testing once again.

[Stephan]

That sure looks like a nice curve!

FP means FactoryPro brand, right? Have the slides been modified, number of lift holes front and back? What about TPS, 500ohms? How about the fuel consumption?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm looking for inspiration to open my carbs and do some testing once again.

the best you can do with slide holes, is leave it as it is from factory, even if you run dynojet carb set.

[Veturinkuljettaja]

That sure looks like a nice curve!

FP means FactoryPro brand, right? Have the slides been modified, number of lift holes front and back? What about TPS, 500ohms? How about the fuel consumption?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm looking for inspiration to open my carbs and do some testing once again.

the best you can do with slide holes, is leave it as it is from factory, even if you run dynojet carb set.

Yeah, it's possible that standard slides are the way to go... I haven't tried this myself yet. When I got the bike, it had 3 holes in both slides, now it has 1 in the front and 2 at the back. With plugging the slide holes and changing main jets and needle position I was able to improve the low and middle range a lot. Fuel consumption however is a lot worse now. I used to get 200-210km before rlod. Now it's more like 175-185km. I am willing to sacrifice a little bit of power to get better mileage. I might buy new original slides in the summer as the originals (70000km) are a little worn anyway.

[Twitchy]

Just to keep this thread updated, I have adjusted the carb settings thus;
FRONT;
178 main (down 2)
48 pilot (down from 50)
Needles unchanged at 3rd slot from blunt end
Fuel screw set on bench at 1 3/4 turns

REAR;
182 main (down )
48 pilot (down from 50)
Needles unchanged at 3rd slot from blunt end
Fuel screw set on bench at 1 3/4 turns

TPS tested on bench at 537 ohms. Close enough until tuning.

This weekend I will have a play and see how nice she runs!

[Twitchy]

Thread update; ended up lifting both needles 1x shim (0.6mm) and resetting idle and TPS to 499 ohms. Dyno run done today;



More info can be found in my build thread.
Thanks.

[AMCQ46]

that's pretty damn good now, all 3 curves are nice and smooth