pulsation at all rpm and rough

[andrewmagas]

hi everyone
got my flywheel fixed back
sorted with cams first time in my life and all turning ower and sounds good.
i am sure this problem was mentioned 100 of times

bike starts very well now
but is nor running as it should rpm is jumping up and down at all range
and is very rough
i got morgans carbtune and it was pretty much in tact.
but not sure as i read manual regarding the pilot screw adjustment
it says to turn the screw till engine speed increases then turn ir down and from that point
FINAL OPENING:
Front: 1 turn out
Rear: 1-1/4 turns out
also the TPS all the tests are positive and it's working
only if at higher rpm i pul the tps plug off the engine speed is not changing
but applying throttle resistance is changing so it's working
i did maximum i could to set up as close as posible to 500
but if i have to high idle speed then it makes no sense
i am also having problem with idle speed. cant make less then 1500rpm or it will cut off.


few advice would help a lot as hare in lithuania we don't have much where to bring your bike

[VTRDark]

Wow that was hard to read and work out what s going on. That text is pulsating through all sentences.

Lets keep things simple. Start with the petcock fuel vacuum hose. Is this connected to the right place under the tank.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... se#p282579

What about the flywheel and cams as it sounds like these have been messed with. Is the timing all correct. I'm guessing you have had the flywheel lightened, am I correct, if so has this been done correctly and has the flywheel been put back on with the woodruff key lined up on the crankshaft.

[andrewmagas]

since i have 3 fluwheels te first one was damaged

so i put another one
was hard to put it on but managed
rt mark in place once the piston at the top point for rear
and pistons are not hitting anything while turning
petcock vacum in place

both exhaust headers are same temperature when worming up

[VTRDark]

Did you check the vaccum line. Also check that there are no air leaks ie the carbs are seated correctly and the clamps are done up tight.

only if at higher rpm i pul the tps plug off the engine speed is not changing

This normal as TPS advancement gets less the higher the revs. Have you had the carbs apart to do any work to them or only played with the fuel mixture screws.

What's the bike like to ride. You need to be a bit more descriptive with your symtoms. Pulsating and rough could mean anything.

[andrewmagas]

[andrewmagas]

the rpm is moving up and down even if i ride
so making it pull or brake all the time a little

[VTRDark]

Argh a picture says a thousand words. Seems more like an electrical problem to me. Make sure that both HT leads are seated fully especially the front. Check regulator/rectifier output, coils etc. What's the starter motor like, is the bolt really corroded. Battery...what's the condition of that. As it stands it's more of a misfire than pulsation. You can sort the carb mixture once the motor is running smoothly.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=28771

[andrewmagas]

I love you guys
So running around with multimeter ending up on fron cylinder spark plug cap. Which is not reading any data no shirt between ends or any resistance either. The rear one has resistance of some value.
Any spark plug caps for sale? As i couldnt find any on ebay.co.uk
Or i should buy coil or twi with wires?
Thanks again for perfect diagnostic

[VTRDark]

The HT leads are built into the coils. You can get 3rd party HT lead parts but it's a bit of a faff chopping and crimping etc plus they wont seat in the cam cover like the originals.

This is the perfect upgrade opportunity. Coil on Cap (stick coils) mod. It's a massive improvement and makes the bike start a little snappier and you should gain a 1 or 2 bhp with having a cleaner spark. It also eliminates the standard coils so more frame space and lighter.

See the following:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=21761

[tony.mon]

. It's a massive improvement and makes the bike start a little snappier and you should gain a 1 or 2 bhp with having a cleaner spark. It also eliminates the standard coils so more frame space and lighter.

See the following:
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=21761

Carl!

Now you're doing it!

Please post any definitive before and after stick coil power gains- I've never seen any proof and I think this is an urban myth.
The standard coils are fine and fit for purpose, and there should be no power increase unless the std ones, leads or plugs are failing in some way.
However the removal of the front one may allow more air into the triangular hole in the frame, increasing power, but that's purely conjecture- I'd love to see a before and after dyno to prove it.

If it was that easy Honda (and every other mnfr) would have switched to stick coils overnight.

Show me the evidence, please.

[VTRDark]

unless the std ones, leads or plugs are failing in some way.

That's the point. And I think one can feel the improvement after the change. Well I did anyway but then my originals where old and tired so the change put them back as they probably where when it left the factory. Maybe gains is the wrong word, but puts it back to like new or a little more responsive.

[andrewmagas]

ok got cbr600rr stickes
nothing changed:I
same issues

any more ideas
does TPS has something to do on starting and low rpm?

[VTRDark]

You wasn't getting a reading at the HT lead before. Have you tested again since with the stick coils. You still have the slow cranking so don't forget to check the battery and starter connection and regulator/rectifier.

[andrewmagas]

measuring voltage
reading 16V on higher but not to high rpm
never had more then 15 on my triumph speed triple
will c if i can get more then 16v. then it would be a regulator issue.
i got 14s battery
cranking was very bad with 12bs bat
so i changed to this
so it's much more power to crank
but still the sound of hitting when starting is there
like a new ducati.

[VTRDark]

16v is too high and the regulator is overcharging and not shunting the excess voltage away in the form of heat. This will boil your battery and kill the cells if hasn't already. You want to be careful because if the battery is bad then it will go the other way and kill a good regulator. Make sure you battery is good and holds a charge. Check the starter motor bolt too as they corrode badly as it's at the front of the engine.

Get this sorted first so the bike is cranking over and starting properly.