Have changed coolant/ antifreeze as routine.
Drained by removing bottom rad hose, refilled through hose to thermostat until refluxed out of top left rad connection but 1/2 litre left to stated capacity. Any advice on how to ensure fully topped up.
Handbook mentions radiator cap ("do not remove when hot") but I can't see where one can be and plastic header tank is clearly not pressurised.
Noticed previous post re bleeding clutch. Had similar problem of failing to push fluid through. Solved by removing lever assembly, tilting master cylinder reservoir end up, and air bubbles rose up and allowed normal bleeding - presumably air lock with lever on bar when the reservoir is lower than master cylinder.
Coolant change
- Stormin Ben
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 12:23 am
- Location: Birmingham
- Pete.L
- Forum Health And Safety Officer
- Posts: 7306
- Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:09 pm
- Location: Bristol
Shhh!Stormin Ben wrote:For 'easier to get at' read 'only possible to get at'Pete.L wrote:Hi Geri
Welcome on Board
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The rediator cap is at the top of the R/H radiator. It's easier to get at if the front fairing is off.
Pete.l
I could have had him fiddling for hours trying to work out how to fill it up and leave the fairing on

Re: Coolant change
geri youre an absolute legend, done what you said and within 2 minutes i had a clutch. you would not believe how happy i am you really wouldnt. all i had to do all this time was jam my foot up against the wall lean the bike on my leg and pump the unknwon air lock out of the master cylinder. wooooooohooooooooooo the beast is backgeri wrote:Have changed coolant/ antifreeze as routine.
Drained by removing bottom rad hose, refilled through hose to thermostat until refluxed out of top left rad connection but 1/2 litre left to stated capacity. Any advice on how to ensure fully topped up.
Handbook mentions radiator cap ("do not remove when hot") but I can't see where one can be and plastic header tank is clearly not pressurised.
Noticed previous post re bleeding clutch. Had similar problem of failing to push fluid through. Solved by removing lever assembly, tilting master cylinder reservoir end up, and air bubbles rose up and allowed normal bleeding - presumably air lock with lever on bar when the reservoir is lower than master cylinder.


Many thanks for info re radiator cap - hadn't seen it for looking- ashamed to say have had bike 9 years (8000km only from new -German import), never changed or needed to top up coolant despite customary water pump weep. I've got the cap off with fairing in situ - next step to see if can top up and replace without more surgery.
Interested to see posts on cam chain tensioners and rectifier/ regulators. Used to read registry when I first got the VTR and never saw this mentioned- how common are these problems?
Interested to see posts on cam chain tensioners and rectifier/ regulators. Used to read registry when I first got the VTR and never saw this mentioned- how common are these problems?