Hondo wrote:Well at 18:30 hrs GMT exactly (I'm a bit OCD with things like this ) The tank was on and all connected. I used a little choke and turned the bike over with the kill switch still at off. No nasty noises.
Then, with my youngest son shouting "do it Dad" I fired the beast into life once more and she runs and sounds great. Got the temperature up to 80, still no screeching and no clatter. So far so good.
I did it. Thanks all. What a brilliant members forum.
I must say with the guide here, the job is relatively easy. I normally do my own basic servicing on my bikes but this was the biggest job I have ever attempted. (Well except for replacing a cam bearing in a Z650 33 years ago.)
Thanks go to all who advised and to Ade for the MCCT's. And very nice they are too. No leaking so far.
She's back together in one piece.
Now for a couple of beers.
il have a wee look and see what room that leaves me
You could always crawl into the gap Seriously though It cant be that difficult. Just manipulate you hands even if that means 1/2 a turn at the time with a spanner. FFS I can stick my hand down the front of the airfilter and feel the bottom hoses attached underneath. You need mechanics hands It's like being a surgeon
il have a wee look and see what room that leaves me
You could always crawl into the gap Seriously though It cant be that difficult. Just manipulate you hands even if that means 1/2 a turn at the time with a spanner. FFS I can stick my hand down the front of my pants and feel my hairy plumbs attached underneath. You need mechanics hands It's like being a surgeon
On a more serious note for attaching the rear link to the cylinder is not that bad. From the left side of the bike 10mm bolt is simple...loads of access space. You can even get a ratchet in there if you have a small wobble drive attached. Easier and quicker to use a 10mm spanner though. You should be able to get your fingers in and around the pipe and thread the the 10mm bolt on the the other side from there too. Once on then move to the right hand side of the bike where access is a little more restrictive as the rear tensioner and master cylinder gets in the way a bit as well as the engine Earth strap. Use a 10mm spanner and do do up a bit at a time. You may only be able to do 1/2 turn at a time before having to remove and re-attach the spanner but this is not so bad if you have already threaded the bolt on all the way.
On a more serious note for attaching the rear link to the cylinder is not that bad. From the left side of the bike 10mm bolt is simple...loads of access space. You can even get a ratchet in there if you have a small wobble drive attached. Easier and quicker to use a 10mm spanner though. You should be able to get your fingers in and around the pipe and thread the the 10mm bolt on the the other side from there too. Once on then move to the right hand side of the bike where access is a little more restrictive as the rear tensioner and master cylinder gets in the way a bit as well as the engine Earth strap. Use a 10mm spanner and do do up a bit at a time. You may only be able to do 1/2 turn at a time before having to remove and re-attach the spanner but this is not so bad if you have already threaded the bolt on all the way.
I think he's talking about access to the rear cct rather than the link pipe, Carl.
But that's another possible solution- remove the rear link pipe and you should be able to access the rear cct from the LH side.
Or just angle-grind off the ear and weld it back on later, if you want a quick and easy method. That's how Moriwaki used to do it on the endurance bikes. (Mods- please move this to the fake news thread)
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
. im gona do me new girl this weekend so hoping mine goes the same as yours
) The tank was on and all connected. I used a little choke and turned the bike over with the kill switch still at off. No nasty noises.
It's like being a surgeon 
