Ahhhhhhhhhhh f*ck!!!!

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pmcq
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Location: The Sticks, Ireland

Ahhhhhhhhhhh f*ck!!!!

Post by pmcq »

Right, stand up here who said CCT replacement is a 1 hour job :D

Rather than chance popping them out and putting new ones in, I have taken off the tank, the airbox, lined up the timing, and have replaced the rear successfully. And when I say successfully, I mean I have I have only managed to shear 1 of the cam cover bolts off! :evil: Yep, while tightening them up with my newly acquired torque wrench, I felt a sudden lightness in the twist. After a 1 second delay of thinking it was the wrench doing its job and slipping I realised the blasted thing had decided to take the top of the bolt off. 53Nm me butt... Now there is a 1 cm piece of bolt stuck in the head. Any ideas on this? Drill and helicoil?

Also now looking at the front one, there seems to be a heat shield which looks quite tricky to remove as well as the oil cooler sitting over the top two cam-cover bolts. Whats the story here... This is turning out to be a tad longer than I would have anticipated. Can I rotate for the compression stroke and line up the FT mark on the flywheel - is this a safe option?

I always learn the hard way :o
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markg
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Post by markg »

Feck mate... I think you read the manual wrong 8O
The cylinder head bolts are 53nm, I done mine only the other day when I put the top end back on mine. The cam cover bolts are only something like 10nm 8O.
Maybe you will be lucky and there is a bit of bolt shank you can get molegrips on to undo it?
I had the front cover off mine while I done the rear just to make sure I didn't get the timing 180 degrees out. Maybe there is an easier way but as I had to take my carbs off anyway I removed the plastic shield that sits between the carbs and front barrell for access to the back two cam cover bolts, I took the breather pipe right off and was able to lift the cam cover just enough to see the cams and the timing marks. To get the cover right off I think the oil cooler would have to come off.If you remove the carbs you only have to disconnect the throttle sensor and maybe the throttle cables to get access(and undo the inlet rubber clamps)
I have a theory that if you align on TDC for whichever cylinder it doesnt matter what stroke the engine is on as the cams are still not loaded, they are round 180 degrees(pointing down and away from each other) but don't take my word on that!!
These bloody tensioners cause so much grief don't they?
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markg
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Post by markg »

Just a thought here... Maybe I should have taken the front cylinder sparkplug out and then the cam cover would have come off...maybe no need to remove the oil cooler...doh! :oops:
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pmcq
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Location: The Sticks, Ireland

Post by pmcq »

Cheers Mark... Hmmm... I think I will have to get my eyes tested before consulting that manual again :D Unfortunately There is no peice of the bolt sticking out so I am going in with the drill today. I am going to try and make a small slot in the top of the bolt and use a small screwdriver to remove it. After that it might need a retapping. Hopefully not.
Those damn CCT's are a pain in the butt alright. Time to get that SP1 and not worry about them...

After removing the old ones I noticed the front one had a pink dot and the rear a white so it looks like there has been a change before. Now that I am in paranoid mode about them here's a question: If the timing jumped a tooth would there be valve slap or would it just run like crap?
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Pete.L
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Post by Pete.L »

Now that I am in paranoid mode about them here's a question: If the timing jumped a tooth would there be valve slap or would it just run like crap?
Don't even try it 8O The valves could meet the piston and you'll be in a whole new word of hurt, especially your wallet :wink:
After you've finished the job and before you put the engine covers back on turn the crank over with a spanner, or by turning the back wheel with the bike in sixth, and check to see if the alignment marks still line up after the rotation. If it does your fine, If it doesn't or the engine goes solid on the way around it's time to start the timing alignment proceedure again.
Good luck
Pete.l
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Rincewind
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Location: Goxhill

Post by Rincewind »

realistically how much, roughly, am i looking at for a garage to do this for me if i buy the manual CCT's?????
Never argue with an idiot, they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
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Kitch
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Post by Kitch »

Rincewind wrote:realistically how much, roughly, am i looking at for a garage to do this for me if i buy the manual CCT's?????
Probably about £900

Sorry, I'm just bitter at the quotes I've been getting to fix my car.

Realistically, I'd budget for 2 hours labour + a bit, so £50 - £70 would be my estimate. (should be less, but it's always nice for it to be less than you planned)
Voted most likely to be found dead in park bushes following an act of autoerotic asphyxiation.
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pmcq
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Post by pmcq »

Well I hit that starter and she started up without any problems!

Initially, on the front one, due to the difficulty in getting to it, I decided to replace the it without lifting the cam cover. I cranked it round a few times listening to where I though TDC was and pulled the cct out, upon which I heard a nice clicking sound. Hmmmm. Sounded a bit like a chain jumping a tooth :D. So in the end I took off the cam cover, but still found it very difficult to see the timing marks. I then removed the carbs and the heatshield and got a better view. The timing chain had indeed moved one notch. Its easy to adjust the chain with the cct out - loads of slack. Put it all back together. It sounds great now, but even thought the new cct's are in, I still have a slightly paranoid feeling about them... As for the sheared bolt, the end of it came out ok without drilling and I have a new on order.
Whew!!!

It well worth taking the time to do this job right...! Cheers for the help lads! The only thing I regret is not taking enough pics to do up a cct changing guide that I could post up. Doh!
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sirch345
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Post by sirch345 »

Hi Pmcq,

Glad too hear it's all back together and running well, always a nice feeling when the engine bursts into life for the first time after a strip down :!:

What I found for the front cylinder to be able to see the cam markings easier was to remove the bolts holding the lefthand radiator and leave it hanging on the hoses, which allowed it to be moved just enough more or less to see them, I didn't remove the carbs :!:

Chris.
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pmcq
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Post by pmcq »

Actually you are right Chris... I forgot to mention that - I also dropped the rad, but still found it difficult to see... must be my crosseyes :) Sure I cant even read the manual right :)
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sirch345
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Post by sirch345 »

pmcq wrote:Actually you are right Chris... I forgot to mention that - I also dropped the rad, but still found it difficult to see... must be my crosseyes :) Sure I cant even read the manual right :)
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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