OK, I have finally had a trackday insane enough that I dragged my Pyramid Plastics lower, the aftermarket knurled pegs, and the front header on my Yosh pipes. So, my choices are to either slow the hell down (no way!!!!!) or upgrade my forks. Now then, short of selling my first born child there is no way I can afford some Ohlins forks, so I am looking at the Racetech springs, Gold Valve fork kit, and Rebound Gold Valve fork kit.
Has anyone done this mod? What improvements did you see? Was it worth it? Should I plan to buy any of the tools or seals that Racetech recommends? Is there a better fork upgrade available for a comparable price? Should I be looking at the Racetech upgrade for the rear also?
Thanks in advance from across the pond!
Racetech Fork Upgrade - Worth it or Not?
Racetech Fork Upgrade - Worth it or Not?
There is no replacement for displacement.
you could speak to Roger @ Revolution on 07970915259 regards front end tweaks, since Roger is all things VTR.BlackHawk wrote:OK. Well, that's a bit disappointing. I had hoped that someone out there would have something to say about front end upgrades.
He did my front forks and fitted the Penske rear.
Again speak to Roger since he imports Moriwaki kit.Now I'll try my luck with a different query. Does anyone have any experience with the Moriwaki stage 1 cams and pistons?
Robb
'97 Firestorm
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smokin joes
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 10:14 am
- Location: stoke on trent
- Contact:
Forks
I did the following mod and it worked perfectly.
1) Replace std forks springs with Ohlins springs, (8.5's)
2) COMPLETELY remove all the old fork oil and replace with OHLINS 7.5
ensure you have the correct air gap and static sag.
Enjoy. !!
I found this worked for me, it no longer dives on the brakes and is planted round bends. I will happily chase anything round the twisties.
Cost...£ 90.00.
If i need to go further then I simply do the valves
Geoff M
1) Replace std forks springs with Ohlins springs, (8.5's)
2) COMPLETELY remove all the old fork oil and replace with OHLINS 7.5
ensure you have the correct air gap and static sag.
Enjoy. !!
I found this worked for me, it no longer dives on the brakes and is planted round bends. I will happily chase anything round the twisties.
Cost...£ 90.00.
If i need to go further then I simply do the valves
Geoff M
Sex is like air. It only becomes really important when you aren't getting any.
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smokin joes
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 10:14 am
- Location: stoke on trent
- Contact:
Suspension air gap and spring length Static SAG ..IMPORTANT
SPRING LENGTH
The Spring length must be 410mm, this is achived by adding the length of the spring to the spacer, the spacer is an alloy tube that can be cut down.
The length must not include any washers or colletts.
AIR GAP
This is 140 mm from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil in the tube.
The fork tube should be pushed down all the way, and you should have filled the fork with the specified amount of oil, or just a bit more. When you put the oil in the fork you have to pump the fork tube up and down a few times, do this slowly or you WILL get a glob of oil in the face
All measurements from top of oil seal to underside of bottom yoke - silver tube!!1) Set forks with 5mm more pull through the top yoke than standard i.e. lower the bike down the fork legs by 5mm (MAX 10mm) 2) Set Rebound fully off (screw all way out)3) Set Preload fully off (all way out) 4) Raise front of bike off the ground and measure. (This is Full Travel) = A 5) Return bike to floor 6) Push down firmly and allow to return steadily (do not bounce) - measure = B 7) Lift up with clip-ons (keep wheel on the ground) and allow to settle down (not crash down) - measure = C
Measurement B + C divided by 2 = D 9) Measurement A minus D = 26mm - 28mm 10) Wind pre-load in until this figure is achieved, keep repeating 6 to 9 until it is correct. 11) Set rebound to "fastest possible return, but under control (screw fully in & than back out probably ¾ to 1¼ turns out) All the measurements are done with the bike sitting on its own wheels, no stands or blocks etc. but I did find that the first measurement A was easiest to do with the front of the bike still jacked off the floor, with the wheel hanging in the air, but after that one the bike sits on the ground, no rear stand or side stand. No one sits on the bike either, the bike is sitting under its own weight. You can do this (I understand) because you have put the correct springs in there for the combined weight of you and the bike.
Works for me !!
Geoff M
The Spring length must be 410mm, this is achived by adding the length of the spring to the spacer, the spacer is an alloy tube that can be cut down.
The length must not include any washers or colletts.
AIR GAP
This is 140 mm from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil in the tube.
The fork tube should be pushed down all the way, and you should have filled the fork with the specified amount of oil, or just a bit more. When you put the oil in the fork you have to pump the fork tube up and down a few times, do this slowly or you WILL get a glob of oil in the face
All measurements from top of oil seal to underside of bottom yoke - silver tube!!1) Set forks with 5mm more pull through the top yoke than standard i.e. lower the bike down the fork legs by 5mm (MAX 10mm) 2) Set Rebound fully off (screw all way out)3) Set Preload fully off (all way out) 4) Raise front of bike off the ground and measure. (This is Full Travel) = A 5) Return bike to floor 6) Push down firmly and allow to return steadily (do not bounce) - measure = B 7) Lift up with clip-ons (keep wheel on the ground) and allow to settle down (not crash down) - measure = C
Measurement B + C divided by 2 = D 9) Measurement A minus D = 26mm - 28mm 10) Wind pre-load in until this figure is achieved, keep repeating 6 to 9 until it is correct. 11) Set rebound to "fastest possible return, but under control (screw fully in & than back out probably ¾ to 1¼ turns out) All the measurements are done with the bike sitting on its own wheels, no stands or blocks etc. but I did find that the first measurement A was easiest to do with the front of the bike still jacked off the floor, with the wheel hanging in the air, but after that one the bike sits on the ground, no rear stand or side stand. No one sits on the bike either, the bike is sitting under its own weight. You can do this (I understand) because you have put the correct springs in there for the combined weight of you and the bike.Works for me !!
Geoff M
Sex is like air. It only becomes really important when you aren't getting any.
OK, thanks for all the responses. I have already decided to upgrade the front, mainly because when I am in full track gear I weigh about 230 pounds but the current front will not let me set less than 45 mm of sag. Totally unacceptable.
So, I will post again when the upgrade is complete and let everyone know how it went.
So, I will post again when the upgrade is complete and let everyone know how it went.
There is no replacement for displacement.