Project Varatrackerstorm or Firetrackerdero.

[Varastorm]

You guys are NuTs..

Ok, here we go.

Tonight, I went to the shed with the idea it was going to be a big issue spinning the HEL banjo. It couldn't of been easier

Firstly, I took a mind photograph & removed the required line, wrapped a leather welding glove around the shank & slightly tightened it in the vice, 180° was the target.

I then put a large bolt through the banjo & tried to spin the banjo. It was so easy to turn that I grabbed the pipe as I thought it was turning as well & wasn't being gripped by the vice properly.

It wasn't, It turned easily. I removed from the vice & bolted it to the caliper, a little out but a tweak was needed.

So I grabbed the pliers & welding glove & tweaked the angle, easy.

Here's some picks.

[sirch345]

You guys are NuTs..

Ok, here we go.

Tonight, I went to the shed with the idea it was going to be a big issue spinning the HEL banjo. It couldn't of been easier

Firstly, I took a mind photograph & removed the required line, wrapped a leather welding glove around the shank & slightly tightened it in the vice, 180° was the target.

I then put a large bolt through the banjo & tried to spin the banjo. It was so easy to turn that I grabbed the pipe as I thought it was turning as well & wasn't being gripped by the vice properly.

It wasn't, It turned easily. I removed from the vice & bolted it to the caliper, a little out but a tweak was needed.

So I grabbed the pliers & welding glove & tweaked the angle, easy.

Well I never, I would never have guessed it would have been that simple, thanks for the update on this and the photo's

I'm guessing you have remembered the forks extend should you wheelie when working out if the brake hoses are long enough it's just that they look a bit clip in the photo's on the length,

Chris.

PS. I meant to say, yes they are nuts you're right and Kev has been listening to the Wurzels again

[Varastorm]

I'm guessing you have remembered the forks extend should you wheelie when working out if the brake hoses are long enough it's just that they look a bit clip in the photo's on the length,

Chris.

PS. I meant to say, yes they are nuts you're right and Kev has been listening to the Wurzels again

Thanks for the concern Chris, I've lifted the front of the bike up so the wheel is off the ground & there's room for more stretch as/if/when the rebound spring gets compressed. I might even have to drop the forks through the yokes if this thing handles like a pig. I built a kit car once, now that was a proper death trap, but that story's for another day..

There's no plans for any lights & the ignition barrel bracket on the yoke is going also. So there shouldn't be any obstacles in the way to hinder movement.

I am on the look out for some wider Renthals "Vintage Desert (666-02)". They're very similar to the original Flanders flat track bars but have less sweep.

If I do get some then I'll definitely be looking for longer pipes

[sirch345]

Thanks for the concern Chris, I've lifted the front of the bike up so the wheel is off the ground & there's room for more stretch as/if/when the rebound spring gets compressed. I might even have to drop the forks through the yokes if this thing handles like a pig. I built a kit car once, now that was a proper death trap, but that story's for another day..

There's no plans for any lights & the ignition barrel bracket on the yoke is going also. So there shouldn't be any obstacles in the way to hinder movement.

I am on the look out for some wider Renthals "Vintage Desert (666-02)". They're very similar to the original Flanders flat track bars but have less sweep.

If I do get some then I'll definitely be looking for longer pipes

I thought it worth mentioning, although knowing how conscientious you are I thought you most likely would have thought about that

Good luck in finding some Renthal "Vintage Desert (666-02) handlebars,

Chris.

[Varastorm]

Good luck in finding some Renthal "Vintage Desert (666-02) handlebars,

Chris.

Thanks again Chris, they're quite a rare second hand find tbh. Been hunting for 2 years & still none found.

I'm busy with work atm, so no time to go to the steel stockists for some 3-4mm aluminium sheet for the dreaded battery box.

So I'm sorting out some unfinished jobs, one big issue I have is wiring this thing up. The loom has been fitted roughly once & I thought it would be a pita to position correctly but it wasn't. The wiring sockets dictate the loom position on the bike, getting it to look tidy might be more of a challenge though.

The initial start up will be interesting, lots of fun new things to listen to, carb/exhaust. But I must remember to keep a close eye on the engine temperature. I've bought a standard set of clocks mainly to use the temp gauge. Once I'm happy I'll fit the cheap all in one speedo/rev counter combo, but I'll only fit it once I know it all runs properly within temp.

My plan is to run one Vtr radiator for now, I have a larger Sv1000n rad but feel it's too large (ugly).

So, here's the original plan, if I'm using only one rad I'm thinking of fitting a larger oil cooler to aid temp control. My idea was thought up a while ago, I think it was a Mikster thread about fitting a larger oil cooler that kicked it off. At the time I looked into what Honda bikes (if any) use similar oil cooler pipe fittings. The Trx quad models came up trumps by using the same oil "0" rings that the Vtr uses on the sump & radiator. I didn't do any further research, as in buying one to see if it would work. Btw the Trx pipes come straight out of the sump.

The newer plan is to use a (std) large Trx oil cooler & pipes cut & joined to the Vtr oil cooler pipes that connect to the sump. I've spotted some inline hydraulic 6mm fittings which are good for 1000 bar so should cope, What do you guy's recon?

[fabiostar]

have you looked at the blackbird oil cooler? they are a 7 row and have the same fittings as the storm

[Kev L]

If it’s of any use to you mate I’ve an SP1 oil cooler which I had the mounting bracket for a vtr f welded to the top to give a secure mounting. I also have the oil line connectors for the engine and cooler so you can get some braided lines made up. Just give me a shout if it’s of any use.

[fabiostar]

If it’s of any use to you mate I’ve an SP1 oil cooler which I had the mounting bracket for a vtr f welded to the top to give a secure mounting. I also have the oil line connectors for the engine and cooler so you can get some braided lines made up. Just give me a shout if it’s of any use.

kev if vara doesnt want that set up let me know id be interested in it...

[Kev L]

Will do mate

[Varastorm]

have you looked at the blackbird oil cooler? they are a 7 row and have the same fittings as the storm

Thanks for that Fab, not too sure which way to go yet. Sounds good though

If it’s of any use to you mate I’ve an SP1 oil cooler which I had the mounting bracket for a vtr f welded to the top to give a secure mounting. I also have the oil line connectors for the engine and cooler so you can get some braided lines made up. Just give me a shout if it’s of any use.

This sounds nice Kev thanks for thinking of me & thanks for the offer. Like I mentioned above with Fabio, I'm not too sure which way to go atm. If Fabio is interested do a deal with him, I don't mind at all. Thanks again though

[Kev L]

No problem

[fabiostar]

PM,d Kev..

vara if you go down the bird cooler route il do you one VERY cheap. with the fairing on mine i dont have the room

[Varastorm]

vara if you go down the bird cooler route il do you one VERY cheap. with the fairing on mine i dont have the room

Hope the SP1's oil set up works for you Fab

Thanks for the offer Fab, I might get back to you on that. I'd be interested how you get on with the SP setup though. Look forward to some photos

I've ordered some stainless 6mm inline connectors (£2.29 each) & my plan is to use the standard Vtr's oil pipe sump connectors & flexy pipe. I'll leave a few inches of (clean) 6mm pipe for the olive to seal on.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-22mm-Equ ... 2749.l2649



Place the oil cooler where it fits best (In front of the starter hopefully) then bend/line up the pipes as smart as possible & cut to accommodate the inline connectors.

If it works I'll be looking for bigger coolers, for now though I'll play with the standard one.

That's the plan anyway.. Just hope the inline olives don't fail & destroy the engine

[sirch345]

I'm busy with work atm, so no time to go to the steel stockists for some 3-4mm aluminium sheet for the dreaded battery box.

That is no excuse

The newer plan is to use a (std) large Trx oil cooler & pipes cut & joined to the Vtr oil cooler pipes that connect to the sump. I've spotted some inline hydraulic 6mm fittings which are good for 1000 bar so should cope, What do you guy's recon?

Not wishing to up-set the apple cart so-to-speak seeing as you have already ordered up a set of 6mm straight connectors, but aren't the VTR oil pipes 10mm OD

I made some inquiries into sourcing a new pair of purposely made oil pipes locally a while back for my Storm. I was advised reducing the ID of the oil pipes was certainly not recommended as it will restrict the oil flow. If you use compression joints, the point where the olive sits will mean the ID will be reduced as you compress the olive as I'm sure you are fully aware of. You could do a dummy run and see by how much on an old bit of pipe before going any further,

Chris.

[AMCQ46]

saw this on another site and I like they way they made the heatshield work